I don't recommend it but that can be the last option in case if you can't source a small port intake manifold or a 1g cylinder head.

Not at all. Many people have done it. But at least you would need a 2g/early evo/RVR/Chariot's smaller port intake manifold. Your 1g big port intake manifold can't be used on the 2g head.

Did you disassemble the engine and inspect all the parts? How did you check the clearance? I don't mean to discourage you but it doesn't really matter what caused the last spun bearings. As I mentioned above that once you spin bearings, the only way to break the vicious circle of replacing...

You have charging issue. I think that's causing the P0300 code. After the engine gets hot, most of time you have the voltage too low. Either the alternator, voltage regulator, battery or ECU. You have to fix it first before messing with the tuning.

You have to rebuild the engine properly. Just keep replacing the bearings and cutting the journals won't solve the issue. Once you spin rod bearings, the rod big end roundness is out of spec. Like they get oval. You have to recondition rods and maybe the block too. Many factors would cause spun...

Yes and yes. How much grinding you need would depend how much clearance you want and which block you use.I made this, the pics below. My R&R rod's dowel pin location was set at the position of OEM bearing oil jet hole. (You have to make sure about the position before drilling)The oil jet...

I have a Sparco Sprint with the Sparco adjustable seat slider (00493) in my 1g by modifying a Sparco 600 seat base (Cutting the mounting tabs and welded as L shape to make it mounted as low as possible). As mentioned above that the position would be too high if you would install it as is...

Both side 8AN ORB.

It would depend for what kind of racing and what oil temp you have now. If the car is mainly for streets or sometimes drag racing, just go the B&M 70273 cooler or equivalent as already mentioned above. That would usually keep the oil temp somewhere between 100~120 degree C unless you do some...

From my experience as I had been using the ACT2900 for long. With the 2900, whatever I did with the clutch adjustment it would move the car around 7000 rpm by the clutch drag test. I couldn't make it higher. But if it was somewhere between 6500-7000 rpm, to be honest I had no issue with shifting...

Yes that's why I edited my post . Something is wrong with the Amazon link and I put the Amazon one because the pricing is half than Rockauto.

OEM replacement would be good, like the one in the link below.Edit: I don't know why but it seems Amazon link is not working well for some reason. Please search with "WESTAR EM9206" in Amazon or in google.

When a EVO 3 16g comes with its O2 housing, it would make the difference more significant. The EVO 3 O2 housing has the largest outlet ID. (Keep in mind that the EVO O2 housing outlet flange has a slight different angle than DSM.)1st-2nd pic : 14B O2 housing. 3rd-4th pic : EVO 1/2 16G O2...

Personally I wouldn't put the timing cover. I always visually make sure first that absolutely no leak from the front case/water pump, and the belt tension while and after the initial startup, and then put it back.

Many people start to think to put more air flow first by replacing the fans or turn on the fan earlier to prevent the coolant temp gets higher. But you should think about the coolant flow too. Even if you would put better cooling at the radiator, it wouldn't work well if the thermostat is still...

Spring pressure has nothing to do with the valve timing. What you need to pay attention first is lifter's height/valve clearance (lash). This is the reason why you must use solid lifters to degree cams. Without solid lifters, a degree wheel and a dial indicator, you can not know what position...

Maybe I am not understanding what exactly you are trying to do, but if I understood correctly, no this way won't work. Technically what you are doing is copying the stock cam ramp starting point. There is no point to do that since they have different ramp design. And even the starting position...

I don't know why you are talking about the stamp on piston top.

No, that's not. I have a little write-up here, please refer this link below. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/shop-that-can-machine-1g-rods.541468/#post-153864189

Judging only by the valve cover, it's an EVO 4~6 or airtrek turbo. If it's originally from an EVO 5+, it should have the revised split thrust block against the famous crank walk, but EVO 4. The EVO 4 came with the non revised block with one-piece main bearing from factory unless the previous...

Doing the regular valve clearance (lash) checkup and adjustment.

Hard to pin-point only by the pic, just trace the leak or use a UV dye leak detection kit.Oil leak at any location higher than the head gasket, such as from CAS, cam seals, valve cover gasket, etc etc usually go down to the head gasket edge between the block and the cylinder head, and the oil...

Yes.What I meant in the post from last night is, the video is actually showing the issue.In this moment in the video (the screenshot below), when you touch that terminal with the positive probe (the negative probe was grounded), the multimeter was beeping. It shouldn't have beeped. The...

Yeah you had a short in battery side of the 20A fusible link. Should double check that you have no conductivity to the ground with the terminals of 20A fusible link. If you see no conductivity on both terminal, you have fixed it.

I watched the whole video now and I think that there is a short in somewhere between battery and that 20A fusible link terminal in the relay box. (Or maybe you wired something improperly.) In the video, you have a conductivity with the terminal for the 20A fusible link by grounding (The one in...

The 20A fusible link that you keep blowing is the fusible link #4, and please refer the color code chart below.

You are referring to the 20A fusible link that is green arrowed in the pic below, correct?It's because ECU loses the power source if you blow that 20A fusible link. That 20A fusible link supplies the power to ECU through MPI relay.I would check for a short first by tracing the wire from that...

That's Hotwires or knock-off of that. Maybe like 20+ years ago it went kinda popular but as "fashion" rather than "performance". Those spark plug wires may have some sort of builtin capacitor by claiming that you would have stronger spark. That grounding strap is for that. Some people actually...

Repaired the Boostin/KDN shifter. A up/down shifter cable adapter bolt hole got stripped :ohdamn:

I am not sure what you are talking about but you mentioned that your car is a 1998 Turbo FWD. It would be supposed to work.

I see you are saying the pilot diameter is different. I am not sure why different. Maybe OEM vs Reman. Is the pilot OD is smaller than the ID of bushing on crankshaft?This seems to be yours and according to the manufacturer site, it should fit with a 1998 Turbo FWD.

GST and GSX torque converters are supposed to be the same.

Maybe go with only the Magnus cover first and would go the Jeff's brace if you would feel a need in the future.

You were at the beginning of crankwalk for some reason. And that's what you have to fix, not the number of end play. You now got less end play with new bearings because the thrust bearing is not worn yet.Actually many people have done that in the past and found out that it won't solve...

I would use a longer belt to lower the alternator to have more clearance with the wastegate.

Also here is 7 bolt OEM/OEM replacement pistons info. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/shop-that-can-machine-1g-rods.541468/#post-153864189

What he repaired is exhaust leak, not boost leak. I don't know how much it was leaking but if the boost controller has been set with the exhaust leak, he may see higher boost after repairing the exhaust leak with the same controller setup. And if his setup was causing boost creep before, then...

Yeah that's it if it fits without the plug and if you can bolt the cover straight.

No, there is no play, it fits tight since the magnet part may interfere with trigger plate.

Does the billet cover fit well without the sensor black plastic part? If it does, then only the OD is off. You should try that. You can remove only the sensor part easily by removing 4 screws.What about the bolt hole center position? Lined up?Here what I measured mine.

I see, you actually have two covers with and without groove.I can't see very well your pic but your CAS's black connector lip and housing lip doesn't lined up well for some reason or has something like a flash there in green circle? Isn't that disturbing the cover groove to fit in? Actually it...

Yes it would work or just go to a local store and grab a 5/8 and 3/8 coolant line cap.

? I am confused, I thought the billet cover mating surface is flat and he is saying the CAS he has doesn't have the lip and groove.

Perhaps who made that cover used a reman black top or something not genuine as a sample? I don't know all black top CASs in the world, so I could be wrong. But from my experience, all Mitsubishi black top CASs I had were with a lip and a groove. Those were taken from DSM and JDM cars, and I have...

Yes. 4g64 (2.4) production was like 4g63. So until '92 came with a 6 bolt engine. If you are in north america, maybe it's easier to source one from a hyundai 4g6 engine clone g4cs than mitsubishi 4g64.

Pilot point screw with washers, I think it's M4 x 0.7 x 20mm (Diameter is approxi 3.8mm, length w/ pilot point is 22mm)

Your decision is right that you will inspect visually. From the above facts that you mentioned and apart if this is really at the beginning of crankwalk or not, the only way to completely get rid of your anxiety of crankwalk would be by disassembling and visually/physically inspect. I don't...

If the end play is within the spec, you can barely recognize it visually, even by eyes directly. So if you can see some movement in the video even tiny, most likely it is occurring. Sorry but yes you would probably need to drop the engine to rebuild. The sooner, the better. Hope the crank...