I have not yet. It has taken a while to assemble all of the parts for a complete rebuild. I am actually delivering the parts to my builder tomorrow morning so he can make a start on it. I'll get his thoughts on them and keep you posted as things move along.
Not sure about the exact details, but the evo ones are designed to work with double synchros, and they are forged steel rather than powdered metal like DSM ones are so will handle more torque before failing.
Received hub/sliders. They're so shiny I don't want to put them in a box where I can't see them. Measurements taken with my no name brand cheap verniers. They matched the matched an old factory set I compared them to within 0.2mm or less.
1/2 pics.
Twicks, you were right. I called a local dealer and they emiled me the MSDS straight away which surprised me. I've contacted them before about VR4 parts and never even gotten a response. As it would happen it is rated as non hazardous which made my life much easier.I was importing an EVO 2 RS...
I've talked to babyviper about this. He never went through with the order because there wasn't enough interest. There are limits to how much power the stock hub/slider will take before it breaks. So if you are making stockish power you'd be fine but if you are drag racing or have a stroker you...
I'm resurrecting this thread to see if interest in hub/sliders from PAR has increased at all? They can make 1-2 and 3-4 to suit single or multi-piece synchros. I just have to give Haysam a number to produce. The higher the number the cheaper the price per unit will be. If it makes any difference...
I need to build a trans and transfer at the perfect time when parts have already become rarer than hen's teeth, but here I am. The engine the drive train has to survive is a 94mm stroker that I am expecting 500whp on E85 from. I am not going to drag race it or even roll race. I just like...
Don't know how the subject came up, but as you may or may not know in the land down under we fill up at the pump and then go in and pay for fuel. Yes there are drive offs, but with cameras now they just call the cops and report the plate.
I was wondering if the states has always been pay first...
So this is a little embarrassing. It was fowled plugs.
It looks like the root cause was the temp enriching in the ECU config (that I haven't touched before) was a bit too aggressive. It's the coldest it's been this year, and I guess it pushed the ECU into an area that made things too rich. This...
I do have movement on the tach.
By key on diag I meant that the CEL light stays on for the normal amount of time it normally does when you move the key to on, the extinguishes.
ECU has ECMlink. This weekend I'll hook up my PC and take logs while trying to start. I also have a spare set of 2nd...
Went to fire car up. No spark. Cranks forever. Time before this it took a little longer than usual (usually fires right off the bat), but I assumed it was because it is winter. When it fired it was fine. Can hear pump and smell fuel in the exhaust. No CEL (key on diag looks normal). Swapped...
After a few opinions on the suitability of a Kinugawa ball bearing TF06-18K for build I've been collecting parts for for literally years. I have been planning on a HX-35G setup, but this money is tight and this turbo will be cheaper in that it's bolt on so I don't have to buy a manifold plus two...
I'm tossing up whether it is worth my money to get a Moroso pan for my 2.2 build? I'm aiming for 500+ at the wheels. I use the car for highway and running mountain roads mainly, but will have to take it to the drags and track at least once.
I've killed bearings before due to oil starvation on a...
Just got my Christmas present from Jay Racing (thanks USPS and Aus post). Kiggly HLA, A1 head studs, and some FIC 1650s.Learning the basics of ECMlink SD tuning on the old motor so I know whats what for the new one.Now just have to be patient and get the money together for the pistons (need...
Nope. I couldn’t drum up much interest. Only a few people a little interested anywhere, and the price once here for a set from a small run was over 1k. I ended up getting a set of H11s from Jay Racing.
Thanks guys. In the pic the bung is just sitting there. I intend it to face down towards the firewall. With it on the joiner I can rotate it to the best angle for the cable, clearance, and aesthetics.
Hi all, I talked to ARP yesterday about getting a set of 6 bolt head studs made in 625+. While I was there I asked about how many sets they would need to make before the price started to come down.
The rep didn't really want to commit on price but gave me a worst case of $630 for the studs plus...
The box itself is open center. I'm planning on a Cusco RS 1 way LSD. I have somehow ended up with a collection of transfer cases. Have to check I have the right one.
I can get my hands on a new evo III trans and before I drop several thousand bucks I thought I'd check to see if I missed anything in my research or if something I think I can do I can't. So as far as I have found I have to swap in my stock shift linkages because if you just connect the VR4...
It looks like you are overrunning your maf, assuming you still have the stock one. Above 2000hz it gives weird readings to the ecu.
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maffrequencylimits?s[]=maf&s[]=clamp
Options are 2g, evo, gm, or go speed density.
10.4 shouldn't cause knock. It's leaner than the stock evo 8 fuel table. You have hit the bottom of the stock timing map where the engineers in the mid '80s went 'We can stop here. That part of the map will never get used. Just make it all the same.' That's where I used the evo 8 map as a guide...
Couldn't hurt. Take a look at the evo 8 map too. Don't know if it was the best way to do it, but I took what I thought was the best bits of 1g, 2g, and evo 8 maps, and then pulled timing where I was getting a consistent knock.
I'd love to help, but I've got another 4.5k (aud) to spend to go with the 6.5k I've already dropped on parts to get a few more bits then get my 2.2 stroker built and dyno'ed. Then I have to buy a HX35 and manifold to go with it. I must be nuts. LOL
Yup, and mafComp changes can be done on the fly. If you can get someone riding shotgun who understands the concept, you can do closed loop by getting out on the freeway and have them adjust it until your short term fuel trims are zero. You can cover a decent amount of the freq range with...
1G timing is pretty aggressive from the factory. What octane fuel are you running? I also noticed right where you get knock the real AFR leans off a little compared to the estimated. Adjust the maf comp at that freq (about 1300hz) a bit to richen it up to match. I'd fix up the AFR mismatch, then...
Looks good. 40 - 50 seconds in the log is what you want everywhere in cruise. There is virtually no Short Term Fuel Trim happening, and the real and estimated AFR match. In sections where you see the fuel trim away from zero and the real and estimated AFR don't match, look at your Mass Air...
I said upgrade your injectors is because at 20psi you are going to be over 100% duty on the injectors and leaning out. Just trying to save you a head gasket. Also at 20psi the stock head bolts will stretch. Another way blow the head gasket.
Log looks fine (not an expert). Tweak your maf comp at...
Upgrade your injectors now!
Stock injectors will not support any mods. EVO 560cc is a minimum. If you intend to mod the engine, add a bigger turbo or go E85 you will need bigger than that.
If you haven't already upgrade your fuel pump to support the bigger injectors as well.
After more digging to see what's available, I've come up with this piece of overkill
https://plazmaman.com/product/700hp-w2a-pro-series-2/
It can be speced with 90s at both ends which makes it almost the perfect length, i.e. about an inch behind the radiator fan to pretty much a straight shot...
I'm lucky enough that I can mostly work from home. Traffic in Sydney sucks, so I have 2.5 hours extra each day. I've been using my rower and exercise bike every day in an attempt to shed the 16lbs or so of fat my middle aged midsection has accumulated in the last few years. Finally on the...
I'm fitting a HX-35 to my VR4 with the new engine and have been trying to figure a way for the cross over pipe to fit past the planned twin scroll manifold. I had been thinking moving the radiator and taking the turbo out on the right instead of the left.The problem is then you have an extra...
So in the land down under you are only allowed outside to buy food, see the quack, or exercise. $1k on the spot if you can't convince the cops that's what you've doing.
To retain my sanity I implemented a three step plan.Any other suggestions welcome.
Check out PAR engineering. There are synchro mesh or dog mesh gears. They are an Aussie company which is good for you because at the moment the Aussie dollar is only worth 60c.