Yes I did finally find the issue I am happy to report I cranked the car over long enough for the the ecu to spit a cel and it was a injector circut malfunction so instead of chasing a short in the entire injector circut I swapped in a rharness i sourced locally and car fired up!! pm me if you...
I am getting a p0202 and started a new thread but all 4 of my injectors are not spraying fuel.. so the ecu must not be picking up the other cylinders as of yet.. my car has had a no start condition for about a month I tried a new resistor box and new injectors MPI relays.. and even a different...
I did run a basic power test with the key turned to on with a digital volt meter to the injector pig tails and with the key on I was seeing 12.3 volts at all 4 pigtail on cranking the voltage did see a drop However I will rerun the test with the FSM I have the hynes and the chilton ill look into...
Agree'd however since the topic changed and I ran all of the test's with zero issues and zero responses I figured since I got a CEL I'd start a new thread.. and the other p0202 threads really aren't pertaining to my specific set of issues I could re-post my specific issues in that thread.. One...
For the longest time my injectors have not been pulsing or spraying fuel.. I know that fuel is going through the rail because I have a AFPR on the return side I pulled the line off and fuel was in the rail I reattached the line and pulled the rail with the injectors still on the rail and had a...
I pretty much did everything on the list and Finally bought a new crank sensor and that did not work just turns over the only other thing I can think of is the Cam Sensor..
Reviving the thread so over a month has gone by i havent had a ton of time but recently I got back into the diagnosis.. I did the quick MPI relay test as far as the check engine light and it checked out and the fuel pump is pumping fuel.. I went and swapped known good MPI relay's into the car...
Quick update I had a starter take a dump on me I did add ether to the cylinders and it fired up.. momentarily... I am doing a few of the tests that were stated in the post if all fails Ill try replacing the the Crank postion sensor not to sound cheap but, I dont wanna be quick to replace it...
Jim sorry for the sarcasm but you were LOL'ing air pressure.. so I took that as Sarcasm no disrespect intended..However I know for a fact it is not my crank sensor.. because the car tried to start when I pulled the rail and 1 injector fuel leaked into the bowels and the car fired for a brief...
You need to read the Original post the only thing that confuses people is that people like you are clearly not reading the post correctly I am going down the list that Steve posted because its logical.. Fuel was in the fuel rail after I pulled a injector and ran power to it via 2 jumper wires...
I have a AFPR Read the second paragraph on my original post.. in order to achieve proper fuel pressure with a AFPR you need a fuel pressure gauge to set the pressure correctly.... so that is how I know that I am getting fuel pressure
I have a 97 GST with a Non Eprom ECU I tried swapping a Eprom and socketed Ecu in did the plug swap with no success The car would just turn over but not fire so i swapped back in the non eprom ecu and still having the same issue.. so I ran down a to do list of no start condition.Initially...
I recently got my hands on a 95 eprom ecu had some cap work done and resistor work as well.. I have a 97 GST that had a 97 Non Eprom .. Long story short I installed the ECU and did the plug swap and my car wont fire up it just turns over.. I checked the fuel pressure it has good fuel pressure...
Will try that it feels "gummed" I also got a 95 2g eprom ECU and changed to BPR7ES plugs changed the fire order.. still same issue I found an exhaust leak at the manifold to turbo gonna change the gasket to a thicker one we shall see how that goes. keep you posted.
Yeah Im on a e4 budget in the military and I have a non eprom ecu so the plan was to save the cash to get the non eprom converted to eprom and link v3 and then looking at 650cc injectors
Alright I have searched google quite a bit and cannot find a solution to my specific issue(s) Mods: evo3 16g, VRSF FMIC, 1g Bov, 2g Stock non eprom ecu, wally 255, stm fuel pump rewire, fuel lab AFPR, Stock 450cc injectors, I have a 97 GSTEver since I installed the walbro I have had a...
180 +v.3 $500 is really expensive is what I was thinking..so since I am Located in Hawaii I was thinking $700 is alot more than the cost of black box by about $500
correct me if I am wrong though because tuning a 2g dsm is all new to me ..
I dunno where to start, I got a 97 GST I pulled the ecu out and was ready to send it out to ECMlink and found I have a Non Eprom Ecu... BOO My biggest question is it safe to swap to black box? I have searched plenty but maybe I am just not understanding the concept of installing a blackbox ecu...
I heard the sound and felt the vibration from the cabin more than i felt it the #1 rod that spun the bearing chewed up the rod so bad i needed a new rod and Bearings and the inside of the crank they had to clean inside the journal holes because there was alot of trash needless to say it was spun...
I had a coolant line break while I was driving a while back and did a temporary fix and bypassed the oil cooler.. I have the motor out for other reasons now my question is by, bypassing a coolant line from the oil cooler can that have harmful issues? here is a picture help how its bypassed there...
F*** DSM JUNKYARD!!! They will rip off anyone. This community should come together and put a Class action Lawsuit on them They are a joke and dont do the work they say they will do.....
I recently pulled the motor out and checked all of the valve seals they all seem to be good... However I did buy new supertech valve seals and arp head studs and new head gasket. Any thing else I can check while I have the motor out.
Yeah I did spend my day on a flat surface with a hammer and seemed to get it back in line.... Also noting I found the front balance shaft plug was not in right the machine shop just slightly tapped it in... I ran rtv around it and drove it in. Here is to no oil.leaks!
negitive autozone dose not carry 4g63 oil pan I am a PSM at the zonei did the same with mine take hammer to the edges before you spend $250 on a new one
by accident i ran a cork gasket it came.with the top line gasket kit.. it leaked then i ran mitsubond and new oem mitsubishi oil pump gasket. it dose leak by tue hump on the oil pan and by the drain flange
Has anyone ever experienced a leaky oil pan on a 7 bolt? If so any ways of fixing the issue? I was leaking so bad I had to pull the motor... I hammered out the edges to make sure it is flush I bought "mitsu-bond" to seal it to no avail... Before i buy a $245 pan any ideas?
How were you able to tell thats a HX35? i have done endless searching on the serial numbers? i am not aware of any damage on the compressor wheel Ill take better pictures, however the snap ring is broken and the turbine seal plate was missing.. thanks
I have a Holset I bought that had the compressor tag removed I Know that there are numerous threads for Holset turbo's but, I am Limited to where I can post. Can anyone gimme an Idea of what Holset I have? or How to find out? (The center section has a Holset stamp 3530521) I would like to...