This project is being abandoned and scrapped for parts.

farmer890 updated Stock 96 Eclipse GSTView updates to this DSM profile...

So I'm on the phone with the dealership near me, and her reply was, "No all those codes for those stereos during that time were made by the user when the vehicle was purchased new.".That doesn't sound right, so I said, "I don't think so, I still have the factory security cards for my 1997 GSX...

Sorry I should have clarified. It's only the "Infinity" stereos that require the security code. Since yours isn't asking for a code I assume it's not the exact same one, I still have the little security tags with the pin numbers on them for my 97 GSX but sadly the P/O of this 96 GST put a shitty...

I'm looking to buy a stock head unit for my 1996 Mitsubishi GST. My question is do I need to know the security code for that stereo unit and if so can the dealership help me out with that? I hate the shitty single din the previous owner put in.

farmer890 submitted a new DSM Profile :Stock Eclipse GSTRead more about this vehicle here...

Yeah it does grab every gear. I can count the gears and it uses all of them. Everything functions normally except for I just can't physically move the selector to L but I will look into that further.FWIW it shifts nice and smooth when driving and going into reverse.

Anyone know where to find a replacement sliding cover?

No I cannot put it in L. It behaves as it should in every other selection. Just can't select L.

When I put the trans in neutral, the shifter is in "N" where it should be. Park works, reverse works, drive works and 2nd gear works. Car shifts normally on the highway into top gear and the overdrive functions properly as well. It just won't shift into "L" for some reason, otherwise it seems...

I'm going to go look at the car again right now this time from a cold start. Does anyone know why the shifter will not move into the L position?

Hello everyone, I have a couple questions. I'm looking at a used 1996 Automatic Mitsubishi Eclipse GST for a daily. I took the car for a spin, and everything checks out. Good brakes, tires, power, steering etc.....only problem I found when function testing everything was that the shifter would...

+1 on the lifters

Thanks for all the replies guys!Totally didn't even think about the rings not being seated yet.:ohdamn: Haha that's a tad embarrassing. But I'm a newb so it's all good! This is my first rebuild and I just got a little to horny to see some numbers is all.As for piston to wall clearance, I...

Reviving an old thread. My cold compression numbers are 135 psi across the board. This is on a fresh rebuild which was done by a machine shop that typically builds V8's.I fear that the piston to wall clearance might be too loose, especially since a friend of mine (who had his talon built at...

Accelerate slowly as in the clutch is slipping? What all did you replace? Just the disk, or did you buy a whole kit? (pressure plate, disk, flywheel)What about gears 3 4 and 5?

Good to know! I ended up following the wires to the next plug which was easier to reach (out of site at first, hence the post) which also explains why I was able to do this mod on my 98 so easily. It was hanging in plain view on the 98, but was slightly hidden in the 97.

Thanks for sharing this! Good to know the hood will close with the struts mounted where you have them. I had this exact plan, only I grabbed 3 different pairs of struts from the junkyard and I can't remember what cars they came from. If none of them work, then Chrysler 300 struts it is. Looks...

I just had this exact issue on my 2g; starter would click away every time I turned the key. I redid my grounds by grinding away a pit of paint and exposed bare metal on the frame. That did the trick for me.

Ok so I found it, hidden behind the steel plate. How in f*** do you unplug that thing? I have small hands/fingers and that thing seems impossible. I remember the harness being in an easier spot on the 98 model. I did it in like 2 seconds on that car.

There must be a second one, because when I push the clutch to the floor, I can crank it with or without this particular harness plugged in. I think it must be the cruise throttle cancel switch.If that's the case, then I just can't find the clutch safety switch itself

So I dunno what I'm doing wrong here. I used to have a 98 GSX that I bypassed the clutch safety switch on easily just by unplugging it. When I try to so the same thing to my 97 GSX, it doesn't work. I still have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor before the starter engages. I even...

I think that's your problem as well. In my experience, what my seem like a solid connection, isn't always good enough. Picky f**kin wires!I'm not sure what the multimeter "should" read when the ignition is turned to "START", but 12V sounds right to me.

You got it.In most cars, this is the case. However this is not the case for the 2G DSM (turbo models). There is a black wire harness near the firewall in the middle somewhere, Mitsubishi actually put it there purely for running the fuel pump. I used this handy wire to drain old fuel out of my...

Wow, that is a super, super clean car. I'm mega jealous. 99 GSX white on black? Yep, big time jealous.

I had this exact issue 2 weeks ago. I relocated the battery to the rear, and when I reconnected the battery none of my gauges or dash lights would turn on. All connections and fuses were good. I would turn the key forward and........nothing. Eventually, out of nowhere, everything lit up and...

Been through this exact thing early on with mine. You're hitting fuel cut big time. Turn down the boost until you pimp out your fuel set up to feed that 20g.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-transfer-case-fitament-will-it-work.335321/

The video was private when first posted this (whoops) it should work now. I've emailed AEM, awaiting a response. I've double checked my connections and still I'm showing error lights.

Location in video: Behind steering wheel in front of factory gauge cluster BOOST - No error lights OIL PRESS. (Eng.) - No error lightsLocation in video: A-pillar EGT - Reads 290 degrees Fahrenheit OIL TEMP. - Both error lights flashing, reads 300 degrees FahrenheitLocation in video: Above...

Fixed! Issue turned out to be that the hose was kinked right at the nozzle. To remove the nozzle, rotate clockwise 90° then pull upwards.I cut out the kink, then had a friend hold the feed line from moving (on the underside of the hatch) while I reinstalled the nozzle.The reason for having...

Just hooked up the compressor to the line that feeds the nozzle, blew out some fluid then I heard a loud POP and can now hear air rushing around inside the the headliner *sigh* mystery solved.Edit: got the interior stripped back, put the compressor to the 90 elbow there and blew some more crud...

How do I remove the rear window sprayer nozzle? I want to inspect why it won't spray fluid.When I hit the washer button, I hear the pump nice and loud and I can see fluid moving through the lines but not a drop comes out of the nozzle.

I just drained my gas tank completely using the jumper wire in the engine bay, then refilled it with jerry cans and the needle now reads properly.

Drilled/tapped a pressure source for the mbc

Fender definitely isn't bent. Measured the shit out of it every way I could, it is indeed different. If you guys say you swapped from 95/96 lights to 97/99 lights without changing fenders, then this has to be one cheap ass replacement.Having a closer second look at a couple rock chips, the...

So I put new headlights on and discovered that I may have the wrong fender on my passenger side. Either that or its a poor quality replacement.Interestingly enough, when I bought the car it came with 95/96 style headlights installed. The bumper fit a bit funny because of this, and as such I...

Update: Front roll stop has been modified to match the oem specs. Fits perfectly now. It's tacked right now, my buddy is gonna finish welding it for me today. (I realize these are different from OPs, just wanted to post in case omeone in the future has the same issue as I did)

Oil cooler mounted using brackets off of a parts car evo iv. I'm gonna get that oem plastic scoop deal and snug it up

A little bit of grinding n welding and bam, front mount modified. Before and after pics:

A friend just had this exact isssue on his 2000 Toyota Celica, turned out to be a grounding issue on the cylinder head. All his fuses were good. Maybe clean/redo a couple grounds in the engine bay. That's all he did and the car fired right up and idled perfectly after.Either that or its a bad...

I've Googled and Googled and can't find it. It's the black plastic piece that goes in the hole next to the fog light.

Two more gauges to replace the center vents

It's an EVO IX OFH

Some more progress:

I don't think I have to do that. With my engine sitting the way it is now, with 3 mounts tight, the 4th mount sits perfectly in place with all 3 holes lining up. This is the OEM unit I'm referring to. When I use the avid one it's way off, so it doesn't matter if I use your method or mine. It...

Doesn't change where the roll stop ends up relative to the bracket it bolts to. If I did that then the two mounting bolts wouldn't line up. The mount needs to be modified.I still haven't got it mounted yet. I gave it to a buddy of mine to modify it so it matches the original OEM one. I'll post...

I literally just installed these yesterday. Tranny mount and engine mount were easy. Rear roll stop was a complete bi***. Front roll stop was straight up fabbed up wrong.I replied in another thread about these, I'll post up pics when I get to my computer. All in all I recommend them still...

I have a welded center diff (as per PO) which gives the same tire chirping in tight u-turn situations. Only notice it in parking lots.