Hello I am selling my Tsi racecar project along with every part I have collected for it. the car runs and drives and has a clean title. asking 3700 for the whole lot.Mods: AEM Dry Flow Filter (does not use oil)Evo 3 16g turbo (Only 1000 miles on it)Evo 8 Blow off valveAeromotive...

Here are some pics of the light output stock lightslight bar onview of the front all in all I'm very pleased with the output of the light bar really makes those night drives pleasant as I can definatly see everything down road farther out, plus they are leds so they will last forever! I...

So you got your headlights cleaned and aimed properly but you still feel like its still not enough light output especially when driving down those mountain highways or roads at night and don't want to hit the local wildlife. you think upgrading the bulbs is the only way to get more light but...

Yea a lot of people thought tires but it does it at idle, not moving, in neutral so that eliminates the tires and balancing. All motor mounts are in good condition, none are cracked or sagging. Been driving for 3 months now everyday and gone out of town a few times but still isnt throwing a cel...

Well ive checked the harmonic balancer and its fine with no cracks or anything. Started thinking tho what if maybe a faulty ISC valve is faulty causing it to mess up air/fuel ratios either by being stuck open or closed however i have no problems maintaining a certain idle and it doesnt die or...

This was on my 420a NA eclipse, my talon is the only one turbo'd. I did a leakdown but eveything checked out, yesterday i swapped fuel injectors but no change as far as the plug conditions. The sensors checked out working along with fuel, spark and air but for some reason the computer is...

Depends on how hard i drive the car lol if i ease the car everywhere staying about 35% throttle there is almost no signs of detonation but if i floor it everywhere then it starts showing the signs pretty bad and the vibrations continue whether the car is in drive or not and its thru out the rpm...

Okay i pulled the plugs and cylinder 2 is the only on showing signs of detonation

Dude that sounds gnarly but i looked in there and there wasnt anything out of the ordinary. And i read somewhere about the flywheel bolts but i used red loctite on them so they are on there practicallt permanently... ive heard things about using red on them making it almost impossible to pull...

Ive checked the pulley and it seemed to be in good shape externally and while the engine is running it isnt visually wobbling. When i look at the engine tho it almost seem like the vibration are on the transmission side. If it is the harmonic balancer would it cause the detonation in the cylinders?

Hello, so its been awhile since ive posted on here and its mostly cuz ive been stuck figuring out this problem. So at idle the engine shakes and u can feel the vibrations thru out the rpm range just not badly, the only time u really notice is at idle at 1k rpm. The problem started one day when i...

First one looks like the cam sensor harness and the last one looks like the cruise control plug. Ill have to go look on my talon tomorrow to see about the other ones, they look familiar but cant remember what they went to

Not saying ur system sounds bad but that having multple speakers wont degrade sound quality. Sure it adding more speakers add weight but most wont be messing with 60 pound subwoofers like us most walmart subs or even entry and mid level reputable companies weigh around 20 lbs. And sure quality...

I have 17 speakers in my eclipse and it sounds great and the SQ is great. Ive had SQ judges listen to my car at competitions and they had no remarks on distortion. I use 8 6.75" midrange speakers and 8 1" tweeters and then one 15" inch sub. Total system power is 2500 watts. Any system no matter...

Even the evo 8 bov which are a direct fit work great too. For me most my boost leaks happen cuz my hose clamps keep loosening, need to upgrade them to T-clamps lol but check your hoses (by moving them or pulling them apart) if they move a lot or pull of u know thats where u leaking da boost

Try cleaning them and then use clear coat to keep them clear and ive heard great things of the silverstars ultras but i can see just fine with my stock bulbs right now to be honest. I have the pics of light output in this tech article...

Ive used the prestone radiator flush a few times with decent results

Sealed power is good, i used them in my rebuild last year

Yea the whole car is still a work in progress, eventually tho when i get the money im actually gonna tear out the box and amp rack and relocate both batteries to the spare tire well and then possibly add more speakers and amps lol but that will be for a later time, im still catching up on this...

and decided to get myself a little present for my hard work! an AEM Intake!removed the stock system

and then got the bumper installed

got the switch installed along with my black inserts I pulled of the parts car and then tested the circuit to make sure it works

and here is my relay, since my fuse box doesn't have that spot for fogs I had to make my own as well so I used the same thing I created for the amp turn on switch

the car I pulled the parts from had been there for a few years with no windows so everything inside was dirty so I pulled apart the switch and cleaned it up

and now getting the headlights swapped

Getting the fogs wired into the car, since mine didn't come with fogs from the factory I had to build a harness

time to remove the old

So I hit an animal and it took a bite out of my bumper and it broke my headlight so I decided to use this as an excuse to upgrade to the 2gb front end. I was lucky enough to find a set of headlights and fog lights with the switch for 50 bucks!

and to compensate for the high shifter knob I just cut it down a few inches

So at this point ive had my old pioneer deck for like 4 years now so I decided it was time to upgrade! lol

for those of you who are looking to add the bells and whistles modern rear view mirrors complete with compass and outside temp readout this article is for you!Tools and equipment needed: small flathead or allen wrench hammer (Optional) some 16 gauge wire butt connectors or soldering tools pair...

so this started happening after u reset the ecu? maybe a sensor wire is flipping out, awhile back I found out multiple sensors share the same power wire, for instance the cam, crank, and vehicle speed sensor share the same power wire so if the wire is messed up it affects all 3 sensors and in...

here I read this on a forum and this was how he made a tester for a stock fuel system, I believe he just used a regular screw-in type fuel pressure gauge"That tester would work fine, but using it on the return line will just give you a zero reading. There is no pressure on return side after...

well if its sticking close then it might not be regulating fuel pressure correctly (more pressure=more fuel being sprayed out) as far as testing im not to sure, im trying to remember off the top of my head if there was a fuel pressure test port, but I would say easiest way is just to swap parts...

hmmmm now im just kinda spitballing here but if it 75 degrees at the inlet and then lets say its 300 degrees at the turbo and in that short time it raise IAT to 100 degrees would the temp increase be different if say you were sucking in 32 degree air then thru a 300 degree turbo wouldn't it...

dang cant watch the video... ill have to wait till I get home to watch it

well it sounds like its heading in the right direction to getting fixed. did you ever swap out the FPR and see if there was any change in driveability?

no problem man, let us know if you need anymore more help with wiring or such

well I would not drive that motor with oil pressure that low, its just asking to chew thru the main bearings. I would figure that situation out first. perhaps that pump failed, was it OEM or aftermarket? heck perhaps the oil pickup tube came loose and isn't creating a seal for the pump to pull...

Here this should help with wiring and use a SPDT relayhttp://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram25.html

the five pin relay should work, but hook up the trigger wire to the side markers so it'll turn the relay on and let power constantly go thru even while switching between the high and low beams. then hook it up the battery with a fuse to draw current and then hook up the ballasts to the other pin

that'll work, goodluck

that is the correct thread size from what ive read up.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/vavle-cover-heli-coil.344758/

BPR6ES they work don't let them tell you otherwise lolhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/spark-plug-faq.233421/its a little old but good read and maybe where ever that oil is coming from will be the root cause of the smoke could just be seeping from the head gasket area and dripping down to...

no problem, and ive done my timing belt job on my 420 twice and the first time I had help from my dad and it went by in it seems like 2 try's but this last time I did it myself and dear god I spent it seems like forever doing it! but hey I learned so many trick doing it that I can now replace a...

so that smoke isn't coming from the tail pipe, well if its coming from just manifold area then I would check for any oil or coolant leaks in that area. I would check the status of the rubber lines in that area and hard line connections on the turbo, the water pipe is a banjo style with crush...

hmmmmmmmm maybe the the head gasket is barely starting to go and it leaks very slighty, if it is coolant. have you done a compression test? and it could come from the turbo possible as they are water cooled as well

yes itll have both gaskets

well hopefully it wont come down to that, pray its something simple as a wire or sensor lol

did you try the lucas oil stabilizer for the lifter tick? and if the lifter are clogged maybe run some sea foam in the oil for 5 min then drain it. ive used seafoam in oil on a 420a that had slight lifter tick (dirty lifters) and it helped