Ah I see.. and it's not a hill lol I live in Florida so we don't have hills, it's a slightly inclined drive way I'm no engineer but I'd say 5 degrees maybe less. But makes sense, lesson learned. Thank you guys

Is that bad? Damn I've done that with all my cars.. now I have to fix my ebrake lol

No I've never really seen or noticed it before. But I'm not always sticking my head in the engine bay when I shut it off (even though it's natural for dsms lol) It's a built block with around 5,000 miles on it, so I'm guessing that could be it. Not sure about the valve springs, we tore into the...

Sorry I was trying to clarify it and in doing so made it more confusing. It definitely did not slip, the whole thing turned what I'm thinking would be 3 or 4 teeth. Not just one cam, so I guess you would say the whole motor turned over..

The car is acting the same way it's acted since I've got it, so it couldn't have skipped more, I'm thinking maybe it's always been off a tooth, I'm just trying to figure out if it moving while off means it's loosening, tightening, etc.? The car was in a gear in my driveway, which is barely a...

So.. maybe the timing tensioner is going bad? It's tight and doesn't slap around when driving, doesn't seem loose when off either. It just moved on it's own after the car was shut off. It was sort of freaky, and it was probably a good 4 teeth of movement. Would explain the rough idle and the car...

Dumb question but couldn't find the answer. Is it normal for your cam gears/timing belt to move after your engine has been shut off? As in a good minute after it was shut off.. I was looking around the engine bay at the vacuum lines trying to figure out where one of the hoses off the purge...

Bad link =/, I just put pennzoil in temporarily to get the gassy oil out, in another 200 or so we will be putting royal purple in also ran seafoam at idle before the oil change. So far the ticking/knocking type noise I hear the most has gotten a lot quiter, I'm thinking what I've been hearing...

Spark is good, new spark plugs and new wiresNot sure how to check the pcv valve.. heard you shake it and see if it rattles?The motor was built by a shop in New Jersey Bison engine and machine shop. I figured at this point the bearings are going either because of gas getting into the oil or...

Just recently had a spun rod bearing, had the shop I go to replace the bearings and they polished the crank and rod that had the spun bearing. The crank was cut once before showing that this motor has spun a rod bearing before. Long story short, everything was good measured down to spec, used...

Found out the ticking wasn't lifter tick. It was the damn spark plug wires arcing out against the valve cover, they had tiny cuts in them... odd things with these cars.

For anyone that was watching, it was rod knock, very beginning stages, the bearing was getting worn down but didn't go out yet, saved the rods and crank didn't need to be cut, moral of the story if you hear anything off get it checked out asap and save money!!

Well last night I was able to hear it while cruising, only with the windows up, still not very loud, just noticeable, would lifters still tick while cruising? Say around 2000-2500 rpms cruising? Could this be what the knock sensor is reading as well? Either way, the car is sitting til Monday...

Finally got my gsx running good, fixed all of the boost leaks and vacuum leaks, got dsm link. Tried to get a base tune (proving to be difficult as it's my first time tuning this much), running right around 14.7 at idle now, and once it boost it pegs straight to 10 and then gets richer.On to...

I'm in Lehigh, just saw this thread, got mine about 2 months ago, 97 gsx almost running great lol

Thanks! and I feel so stupid... I should have known that, wasn't even thinking about the ac, since it's not hooked up, no pulley. Wow.. I do have an afpr that the guy gave me, getting that put on when I go back to the shop for the J pipe they ordered. Guessing that might have a bit to do with it...

Followed your advice and removed the manual boost controller, attached the vacuum line from the j pipe directly to the waste-gate now. I moved the actuator arm with my hand and it was pretty difficult to move, a lot more difficult than I would imagine..? Car also bucked and backfired on the way...

Yes and they applied pressure to it and it barely moved. In the mean time I'll do like you said and remove the mbc and attach the line to the wastegate, I'm not pushing it over 10psi anyways and haven't seen anywhere above that since I left the shop. It's running a ton better though it's crazy...

Just an update, got the car back this afternoon. Whole different car, I can't believe the difference, it revs fine now, no bucking, stuttering, backfiring etc. It sounds great, and runs great now, ordered a J pipe and getting an alternator.They tried turning the manual boost controller down...

So it just needs to be grounded correct? Got a boost gauge put in while all of this work was being done. They started it up and took it for a drive to see how it's running and said it's perfect while out of boost now, when it spooled it got up to 30 psi. Damn I wouldn't think it would be set...

It's currently in the shop, so far they have found 10+ boost leaks, and 5+ cracked vacuum lines. I'm amazed it's even been running.. I'm going to need a new J pipe (trying to look for one) and have ordered an alternator. Where on the intake manifold does the Power Transistor mount to?

Figured that was a huge part of it, ordering one tomorrow, putting it on Thursday when it comes out of the shop, maybe I'll have them do it if the don't charge too much, looks like a pain on these cars lol. I still feel like the power transistor unit just laying on top of the engine can't be good..

Well, never had the time to put together a boost leak tester but got it tuned enough for it to run pretty good, and idle good. It has still been throwing misfire codes occasionally and will do it everyonce in a while (a lot less often though). A new performance shop opened up near me and I...

Wow definitely didn't see that one, sorry but thanks for the quick responses guys! Will try to find a 96-98 Galant, if I plan on eventually running an amp etc, would that be fine or would I need more, I.E a performance alternator etc?Found that answer ^ in the other thread as well, thanks...

Tried researching this and can't really find an answer.My alternator is going, and I believe that is part of what is causing my idle issue, I have done a complete tune up and am now at checking for boost leak and the IAC, BISS screw etc, I finally got the ECU Plus that was in the car working...

Alright so I pulled out my old 2 core xp and finally got it to connect. It seems like it was already set up... but how do I know if the tune was on? Anyways, now I can get in and I only know what I'm doing partially at best, I have a wideband and know that my car wants to lean out at idle 17+...

Still not working tried updating the device driver for it as well. Guessing the serial to usb that he had in it isn't compatible with any of the new windows.. so looks like I'll be getting a new serial to usb. On a side note I reset my ecu today and it's no longer stalling and tries to keep a...

The guy said he has ecu plus in there, and there is a usb cord coming out of the driver side of the center console, downloaded ecu plus and it throws some error code saying it can't connect with com 1 or something. I was figuring it could be a mix of the big injectors and a small vacuum or boost...

Hey everyone, I recently bought a 97 GSX with a built 1G motor swap from what I was told. I tried to update everything that I was told was done to it into the info as I've seen that among the threads. I've tried researching my issue and none of the threads are quite hitting it on the head...