Flip it over and Theres a small clip holding it together just needs to be pushed toghter or pulled apart.

Sounds like you wired the safc to a wire that always has power. Thus the reason it's staying on and draining your battery. You have to wire it to somthing that only sees power when the ignition is in the on or run position. But can you please rewrite your post, it's really hard to understand!

I very stupidly was driving very fast one night in the rain. It was a road I was used to and knew how to take the 2 corners at speeds. Well that night without bothering to look first I just went barreling down the road, won't say exactly what I was doing LOL.Anyway I didn't realize that the...

Because you don't have the proper setup to run a vented bov. You are only hurting performance running it vented! Your ECU is expecting that air to be there and when it's not it can cause a rich condition during shift. The only time you can run vented is when tuning with a blow thru style maf or...

Unless you have a beo bolt on housing. You will need a manifold to work with the twin scroll housing. Theres tons of info on both setups on this site if you search! How is going to a bigger turbo going to reduce wheelhop LOL? That makes no sense alittle lag won't eliminate shot motor mounts or...

It would be harder to spin by hand at the crank. And if you've ever done a timing job you kinda get the feel when they are to tight or to loose. Rotate till all the timing marks line up and you are tdc. Then check the belt and see how tight or loose it is. This is one of the best points to see...

Recirculate your bov!!!!

What method did you use to tension the belt? Sounds like its to tight, I had a friend do the same things and made the similar noise! This is why I recommend all dsm/4g63 owners to get the jayracing timing tool kit, or make yourself! :) If you can't put the grenade pin back in easily than your...

Please don't take this the wrong way, everyone who doesn't practice welding or know how will suck at it. But please take some welding lessons or practice on some junk stock. In the pic of trailing arm fix that's junk bro. You haven't penetrated at all and just have balls of wire sitting on top...

^^ I have his on my galant vr4 and love them! Plan to get them for all mitsu's def worth it!

Check out slantedj's vids on YouTube!! There are some good ones just gotta search right

^^ dude search are you kidding!! There's so much info on 16g's on this site you will be dead before you read it all haha! And on stock fuel system you won't be runing any more than 14-16psi without fuel cut!! Get something to tune with and the proper supporting fuel mods before you think of...

Good stuff man! I'm getting ready for a hx35 on my galant for next session! ;)

Dsmtuners should rep this hard! We all know who would kill them on this forum!! Lol

I've had similar noises and it was a tear in my bov vac line so basically the bov wasn't closing fast enough and allowing a small amount of air for a second before boost and it would make a kinda wistle.

Did u do a boost leak test? And to how high of psi?

It could for sure. Best to do a boost leak test and get a spray bottle with soapy water and spray around the couplers and throttle body, biss any place that seems it could leak. You'll find it

Really, just looking at The turbos next to each other or 2 pics next to each other would tell you everything!

Bov or throttle body leaking alittle. Boost leak test

Depends on what your goals are bro! You can always make one yourself! Super easy and like $10-12 or less once parts are gathered from Home Depot racing department LOL! Here's mine works great and holds solid boost wherever I set it. I also had a gizzmo ms-ibc before and loved that. Nothing like...

Buy this and have no problems! http://www.jayracing.com/timing-belt-tools-c-17_229/jay-racing-timing-belt-tools-kit-p-214.html And please before you put a new belt on clean that motor up and change the leaky seals! If your doing it without the tools the exhaust cam will always try and move a...

Man I really was thinking of continuing with the 14b on my galant. But the more I read and see I really wanna run my hx35 sitting in my closet!! Hmmm lol

Jacks is cheaper because he buys a huge 20 gal drum. If you buy a oem gallon it is crazy expensive compaired to jacks. I've always got it from jack because of that!

Just meant all the wire crimp connectors that's all lol. Its looks like they hard wired the timer in for sure.

Ouch what a mess. Those line crimp things are really bad to use and ruin the wire. It could be that they arnt making contact correctly. The timer needs to be wired into the ignition and you don't want those wires coming loose or not making good contact. I would start over and solder/shrink wrap...

Now long has it been sitting and how old is the gas in it? Might be your only problem, bad gas. Drain the old refill and try again.

;) Mine was all from the balance shaft belt. It shredded and somehow wedged itself into the balance shaft and knocked it loose just slightly and number 4 rod came around and smacked it. Blew half the rod and wrist pin 2-300' from the car and piston was shattered LOL! You can see the rest, oil...

You can usually rent them at a parts store. Its possible to do without but I won't say anything about that. It can be very dangerous if you don't know exactly what your doing! Why not remove from the car yourself and take them to a shop and ask them to swap for you quick. Make sure you mark...

The bov line splits and is going to a map sensor. Which is for logging boost with the haltech system. I would also get the bov on its own line to the intake manifold and put the map sensor on its own or you can tap into the fpr line. Most likely your boost gauge is already on the fpr line but...

For like $91 a tire you can get hankooks off amazon!! There's so many better options out there, keep looking!

I few of my old timer race buddies that have been doing this for years and years in the drag cars, and they still do! I'll be trying a set when my motor is back in. I may just make a set just for race days and keep a stock set for dd. Since you drastically cut the life down doing this mod. But...

If your 16g has a jpipe than yes there's the most comon place for a leak!! Like said above do a blt to like 15-20psi and get a spray bottle and soapy water in it and spray away on anything you think is leaking. It will show up!

Of it still rotates and doesn't bind you may be ok with a new timing kit. Really hard to say bro!

There's a guy selling one on here or galant forums for like $200, maybe he would. http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB1&Number=1171402&page=4&fpart=1

Anyone saying there garbage actually ever used them? From what I've found actually searching they don't seem bad at all. Heck if they can hold down the power in a gst and get good consistent 60' times, I don't see how that makes them crap LOL. And seriously you think Megan's are a upgrade to...

Well I'm not making up any story's lol! I was told this by some old timer factory worker at the mitsubishi factory at mod a few years back! He was there when it happen so I didn't think he was lying to me and everyone else there! ;)

Yes and a amp under the seat, not sure about the disc changed ill have to check. My 95 has all the wires for a amp and disc changer but when I got it no amp under the seat and had a aftermarket head unit.

My 98 tsi came with a cd charger! Same as a gst so I'd imagine yours did to!

Check all your battery connections and make sure they are tight. Is sounds like you need to adjust the throttle plate or you have a bad iac or tps. I would check these sensors and ensure they are plugged in and within specs!

Have you check the fuses out, especially the mpi fuse. Also are your battery terminals in tight and is the battery even charged?

I had similar issues to you all at one point. For mine it ended up being the power lock thing on the back of the key cylinder. What happens is when these go bad or begin to stick. They can leave this mechanism on the wrong position. And when you use your key or open the door the alarm can think...

Boost leak test!! Sounds like a boost leak to me!

Its possible you fried something in the ecu having the coil plugged into the cas. You might wanna open the ecu's up and look for damage. Have you checked all the fuses? Its possible the cas is screwed up from the mix up, you should test it or get another to try.

As long as your simulating for the front o2 sensor thru link you don't need to have one! Also yes your gas is bad and most likely the only problem. Try to drain it and replace or add more with some fuel stabilizer! Gas now a days goes bad fast! Also you have the wideband hooked up wrong I think...

Launch control/ 2 step same thing!! ;) and yes thru ecmlink! I launch with about 10psi with my 2 step at 5250!

Just because the motor is new doesn't mean the HG can't be leaky! Do a compression test and rule it out! Old lines will bloat also oil soaked lines will to. And replacing with silicone doesn't seem like it will change anything, I would figure out the issue first.

^^ you can build boost with just the launch control and no anti-lag! I do it everytime at the drag strip when I launch, no need for anti-lag at all!

Sounds like you just have air getting in the system and screwing things. Replace the bad line and refill system and let it sit idling for awhile with the cap off. It also helps to squeeze the hoses ever now and then to help the ati move out. I would still pressure test the system and make sure...

If your getting pressure building quick you could have a head gasket issue. The best thing to do would be to pressure test the cooling system and see what happens. How old are radiator and water pump?

Are you using anti-lag with it? Could just be how you have it set up in link.