You also might wanna (should) get a degree wheel and degree your cams. Also do you know how much was removed from the block and head? This alone will change the valve timing, to what extent depends on how much was removed. You should also clay the pistons to check valve to piston and valve to...
I hate the cheap anti seize, it doesn't last and gets all gummy. You def get what you pay for and I'll tell you from what I've seen, it's worth it. Especially if you're the one working on your car. I'd go with the mototcraft, if not the loctite, I personally don't like permatex.
I found strange pieces of unknown metal in my oil pan too. I pulled and disassembled my engine and didn't find any bearings damaged like that though. I wonder if it's something else like casting flash as well as bearing material in yours.
This is something more of us need to do. Motoiq has everything wpc treated, pistons, rings, cylinder bores, bearings, cams, transmission and differential parts. I'm sold on it only downside is it's a little pricey but not when you consider how much longer certain parts can last ( they say the...
If your going thru the trouble of taking your engine apart and buying new internals, def do not skip the machining. It's actually very important and done right will give you more power and reliability. Wouldn't want to spend good money only to have to spend way more.
Back fires out the exhaust, if it backfired up the intake it would be quite noticeable. Usually that backfire between shifts is from a richer a/f ratio. Do you have a way to check your a/f ratio, w/b perhaps? It is possible the ecu's injector drivers were damaged, but most likely it's not.
I don't see why it would, as the only way the ecu can tell if the cat is working by monitoring the down stream o2 sensor. Does the 1g have a down stream o2, I don't remember seeing one. See if you can find out what conditions will trigger that cel and how does the ecu tell if it's command to...
I know there's a ton of variables but, would you recommend, having used both the bc 272 &276 , the 276 over the 272? It's hard to see but from the dyno it looks like they are pretty close down low, but the 276's make 100+ more power up top thanks for posting your results, it helps to hear real...
If he's already gotten on the car I would think that a blue shop towel would be blown apart or burned, so would a cloth rag. It's pretty darn hot in the exhaust of a turbo car lol. I've seen a mildly tuned srt-4 melt the cat and blow molten chunks out the muffler when we were dyno testing at...
I didn't realize you where making your own chra, quite an undertaking but cool. It just seems to me that machining a cover for the turbine housing, using the v clamp to attach it might be easier and cheaper, even just for r&d. From what I've read there's a few things that had to be engineered...
Exactly, cost being the issue as it seems like the motor will cost a good amount on its own. And each person can upgrade to any type they want. One more thing is maybe you should consider how you'll package the charger and intercooler, piping, room for cooling ducts, and lubrication supply...
Ok don't shred me on this one is hypothetical and I'll research it later on but what about just using 4 or 5 agm batteries, hooked up in series for amp boosting, then use a high powered voltage amp? In that book I have they used 5 lead acid batteries in the trunk to power a electric...
The ect can cause a problem on these cars, the ecu needs its input to calculate fuel enrichment. Do yourself a favor and don't get an auto zone replacement, I've seen so many pos parts get returned.
Lol, I hear ya I always felt like the tick made my car sound like a p.o.s. At one point, when I first bought my car and first time I got on it hard and tached it up, it started doing this weird stuttering, surging thing. Right at 5500, like clock work, not below so started looking for the...
Where do you have the sense wire hooked up to? I'm thinking it's in the stock location, if so you may want move it. There is a good discussion on the Saturn alternator mod and someone found where that wire was reading voltage from made all the difference. I'll dig it up later.
Nice build, good idea on the shift stop, I'll have to do that. And I laughed at the step brothers reference, I thought my friend and I were the only ones to use that one, classic. Like a mix between Fergie and Jesus lol.
Honestly you should state your goals, how you'll be using it (dd,ww, drag only), your approx budget, which includes labor for anything you can't do yourself. Also not to sound insulting, but I'm not sure of your level of knowledge, but the type and size turbo will be a important consideration...
Sure it wasn't balance shaft belt lol? Did the belt snap the perfect odd ball way that it blew your timing cover apart? If so I thought I had bad luck, too much to ask for a pic of the carnage?
That's why I was thinking of limiting it to 2,500 rpm or higher , just like nitrous. There's a reason why it's not allowed to come on below that, what if you make the control system progressive and tune it to come on at say 2600 and limit speed so boost is like 5psi. Then it could ramp up to 10...
It is vr-1 and I have heard that they had to remove most or all the zinc. Good high end oil like amsoil, red line, motul, or brad penn should help, I personally think mobile one is water.
Exactly, yes the 6 bolt can make good power in stock form, but if your rebuilding it you should upgrade. 600 whp is no joke and IF your learning to tune yourself, having stronger internals will help if you knock. Plus it should last longer at those power levels, how much research have you done...
I think you should put the turbo far enough away to have some time to cool the charge air. Maybe you could try using a Peltier junction intercooler, check out this electric supercharger system.
Also you should know along with the all the parts for the turbo ( exh mani, I/c+piping, d/p etc) , you'll need larger injectors, fuel pump, possibly regulator. Most importantly a way to adjust fuel and spark timing, plus the engine will be ingesting more air so it changes the shape of the...
Be careful as stiffer rear springs will increase load on the rear tires. This may out may not be what you need, but usually some rearward weight transfer is preferred.
Seriously your better off getting rid of a paper element filter. Stm makes a nice fuel rail adapters for -6/8an and they fit perfect and never leaked on me. Getting rid of the banjo bolt and stock filter should be good for over 500 awhp, unless you want more.
Nice, and I really do think it's awesome your taking on this project! I'll try to contribute best I can, and I hope to even build one myself sometime. And def check out the wpc treatment, it uses like nut shell media to kinda shot peen the surface. I think I remember reading an article in a...
Am I the only one who hates the high rise dash above the instrument cluster? Lol I think I'm gonna chop it off and do some custom work cause I hate it so.
I like the idea of being able to control turbo speed independent of engine speed and progressively because I've heard that the fast spool hard hit of hx-35's being hard on 5 speed tranny's. So if you get that 14b near its sweet spot at a low rpm, it might present some drive train issues but it...
I'm loving the ingenuity and I applaud your efforts. What do think about trying to get a old pro charger or vortech and using the gear drive from it or even try and use it as is and drive it with the electric motor. They already have some of the hard stuff made. Just an idea, oh and about...
If you haven't I would replace those exhaust manifold studs as they usually break coming out. If it doesn't turn fairly easy I heat it up cause breaking the stud or stripping threads sucks to fix lol. New gaskets crush washers, have everything ready to go before you even start.
I wouldn't use safc if you don't have to. There are a few options for tuning and you should consider it another mod. It's important to have the best tune for your car and parts you can. It not only makes more power it can do it safer, even save your engine ( lean boost cut, timing retard).
That seems like it would be effective at removing the crank case and you can change the size of the orifice and alert the amount of vacuum if needed. Where about did you tap, maybe a pic if possible. But I hear you so with proper baffling and filtering you should be able to keep most of the oil...
That's good, did you notice a difference in the speed and performance of the h8 ecu? I'm seriously considering this or an evo 8 for the better injector drivers and it's processing speed and memory. It's between getting link v3 on my 1g ecu or, going the h8, or evo 8.
There's no point in guessing anymore, we need to see a log of the event. You've covered most of the basics, but without being able to see in person it's hard to tell.
I hope I didn't come across the wrong way, it's hard to convey tone on the forums but I wasn't being sarcastic. Sorry about the no start, is it a crank/no start or no crank/no start?
It's such a broad description but I would suggest going with a cat so 3". But noise level will depend on the muffler mainly, and I've heard good things about burns, apexi and some magna flo but being a turbo engine changes the requirements.