Probably pull it apart and inspect the shaft and bearings to make sure all is good. If shaft is good a rebuild kit just to refresh it and should be good to go
Is it tuned for the 1150s? If not you're putting way too much fuel in. These ecu's are known for capacitors leaking causing problems. 120 psi seems pretty low. Should be around 180 psi warm. A few have had around 140 cold. Does it even try to sputter?
Well, the p0700 means your tcm is bad, or has a short in it. I'd start by doing a tranny flush. Low fluid can cause issues and the tcm will pick up on it and set a code. Another common issue is actually the crank position sensor
Well as you know, the 1g has no lock or unlock switch. So the way it locks or unlocks is by the driver's door lock position. My guess is the rod for the lock came off in the locked position. Can you pull the lock on the door panel in the unlock position?
Some shifters give you a 1,2,3,D,N and P. All it means is 1 will only stay in 1st gear and 3 will still go through 1,2 and stop at 3rd. Another way to describe it is turning off the overdrive on an auto. You have another gear after but it's not going to go into that gear because it's not turned...
Wait, 1g cas and a 98 ecu? It's the same firing order. Nothing is different. If it was a 95/96 ECU then firing order is different. If 97-99 then no mods needed
Depends if you're keeping the turbo that's on it. T25 turbo side will not thread into a 16g. Head isn't a great location for an oil feed so good idea on moving it back where it should be.
oldish thread, but yes, 4g63 and 4g64 use the same rods. the rods won't hold the same amount of power in a g64 because of the extra stroke length in the crank. but it is the same
look at your knock sensor. a bad knock sensor won't be able to advance or retard timing in boost or at wot. make sure its plugged in and not melted looking. that would be the first thing i'd look at
do the basic checks. do a compression test to make sure it will hold compression. to be safe, put a new timing belt on and new water pump. that's what i'm doing soon with my spyder
shouldn't be an injector stuck open. coolant is white, so is just condensation in the exhaust, blue is oil and a fuel injector stuck open would be black smoke. its not always going to smell sweet coming from the exhaust being deluted by the burnt fuel smell. a leaking head gasket won't always...
i re sealed everything. the heater core is the one on the left. middle is the a/c and right is the fan. they don't bolt together. just slide into eachother. the heater core will come out infront of the gas pedal under the steering column
i'm not sure if the whole heater core is filled with water or if it has some air in the top or not. either way, its no good if its smoking. the rear suspension isn't too bad. rather do it than the front. just be careful. the heater core is only held in by a few 12mm nuts and 1 cable to the hvac...
thats the right plug. those 2 bolts are out now. so other than the air bag plug there is other plugs to be pulled out. behind the radio is 3 or 4 plugs beside each other. a white, black and 1 or 2 blue. depends if you have cruise or not. the white and black plug come out and go to the harness in...
those look about right. i had some npr pistons for my 7 bolt that looked like that. i have 4g64 npr pistons now which aren't coated and they also have the circle on the top
what does the exhaust smell like? to change the heater core you will have to pull the dash out. its pretty much taking everything out of the car in that one spot. i haven't found the easy way for that yet. stripped my ac unit out and filled the holes and rebuilt the heater core box re insulating...
if you're getting white smoke and if it has a sweet like smell then its a coolant problem. the dash is a pain but its not bad. i've had mine out atleast 8 times. just around 15 or so 10mm bolts and 11 screws. most of the screws is in the center console.. gauge cluster has to be pulled out for...
fun and easy cars to work on. I'm from ozark missouri, but moved out of state so i can't really help much. but you'll get the hang of these cars pretty quick. i rebuilt most of my 97 gst with no help or knowledge on the car. atleast with mine, i know every nut and bolt in this car and a few...
i don't think there is a difference at all for the fuel filter. idk but the 420a may even use the same thing. the 3000GT uses the same filter. probably for people who don't know there is no difference. like buying clutch fluid. its just renamed brake fluid
i'm not quite sure about that. had a buddy with a 3000gt. speedometer stopped because his speed sensor wasn't plugged in. but still ran and drove fine. either way, as long as your car is running good again is the good part
i think its 89-99 blocks are interchangeable with the tranny, but bolt on and direct fit, 95-99 are all interchangeable. only differences are the thrust bearing, cam sensor and firing order
just hone the cylinders and blue print it. have crank, rods, pistons and flywheel balanced then you can delete the balance shafts. if you want better efficiency you can put the 4g63 head on. but 5 holes will need to be covered. or as is would be cheaper. NPR makes great oem replacement pistons.
exhaust shop can weld it or like i did for a temporary fix, use exhaust putty. it hardens up like a rock. not the chevy kind of rock. thats just weak. but like cement tough.
should be 2 white ones by each other, a white one under the dash and a black one that goes into the fuse box on the top. theres an alternator cable that plugs into the fuse box to. I made a full diagram but i haven't made it up on the computer yet. just on paper
a good clutch would help hold the power. but, you will need to add in a knock sensor and the fuel injector resistor pack since the 450 cc injectors are low impedance. get the gst or gsx ecu and add in those 2 then it should be good to go