That is extremely helpful, thank you very much!

Greetings, I have a 1G but unknown year AWD manual tranny that I was swapping output shafts on. The snap ring was pretty well trashed from getting it off, but now I can't for the life of me find the OEM Mitsubishi part number to replace it. Anyone happen to know what it is or willing to look...

I bought a water pump back in August 2014 for a T-Belt job. It was a GMB brand as I've had good luck with those on other vehicles. About 500 miles later I decided the car needed a whole lot more work so pulled the powertrain and began rebuilding engine/trans. Somehow in that 500 miles the...

Like Dsmkauai said, let it sit and look for separation, but that sure looks like contaminated coolant. You could also send off a sample for analysis to a company like Blackstone Labs but in this case that is probably a waste of money as the answer looks obvious.

Was the cable installed twisted? Usually that happens if they get twisted in the unwind direction, causes the actual rod/cable to bend the strands and then they slowly eat away and fail like you saw. Install the new ones and twist them slightly in the tighten direction so it never happens...

No Falkens?The Falken Sincera or Ziex should be real close to your price range on the others and I've always been a big fan of them. They're softer and rated shorter (50k) treadware, but they have very good summer and winter traction.

Well now that there is a thread here, what was it for future reference?

You will eventually regret FWD no matter what. Plus the tires you'll save going AWD will quickly offset the additional cost.

Any halfway decent exhaust shop can cut/bend/weld that to fit. I'd call around and explain what happened and see who wants the most reasonable price to fix it.

Looks to be MHI, but certainly not worth buying. Maybe $100 or $150 if you can hold it and thoroughly inspect it. A welder will fix the missing chunk we can see but I would be very skeptical.

Throttle is easy and cheap to fix no matter what is wrong. Same with the vibration (probably a ball joint/control arm). Talk him down to $2,500 or so and put some cash aside to do a timing belt and water pump job asap.

In my experience any DSM not purchased from a true (generally someone older than 20s) DSMer is going to need most everything in the engine bay dealt with. Timing belt, hoses, etc. If you want a reliable car, that is. The idle stalling problem definitely sounds like an intake leak of some...

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge first and see if you are actually getting pressure or not. Could be as simple as a relay not turning the pump on. If there is pressure then it is an injector problem, if not then you trace it backwards to locate the problem.

The quick and less thorough rebuild is to spray them out with a fast drying solvent. Brake cleaner works in a pinch, blow out with air compressor, wait to dry and then blow in a tiny amount of powder mica. If there are electronics behind a cylinder (like the ignition) remove it before...

The 4g64 oil filter housing is longer and narrower down the main section. I'm guessing they break somewhere right around the big "M"? That's probably the focal point for vibrations so it fatigues and finally snaps. A good welder might be able to weld in some angle aluminum to reinforce your...

I would guess that is your problem. I have no idea how these ECUs work without a turbo (or significantly less boost than stock), but I imagine if it is getting 5 psi and expecting at least 11 then there your problem. One would think the MAF would keep the AFR close to where it should be though...

Rebuild works if there is no wear at all and you keep everything extremely well lubed (with brake fluid!). I would check/replace both cylinders and bleed the system thoroughly. Adjustment is a second possibility if fluid is not allowed to return to the reservoir [immediately] after the...

MLS can theoretically be reused. Absolutely never on a composite. Once the composites have been crushed (torqued) they are done if ever removed. The Victor Reinz Nitroseal gaskets are only ~$25-$30 and will do just fine. The head gasket doesn't matter so much as long as the head doesn't lift.

I wouldn't doubt that, but his deck surfaces look a little on the rough side. Plus we don't know how flat they actually are either. I'd hazard a guess that ARPs with a freshly milled head and block and a Mitsubishi composite would hold up to just about anything you throw at it. MLS gaskets...

Maybe the clutch pedal needs adjusted? Jacks Transmissions has a video on how to do it. That is the easy way; otherwise improper installation or gross clutch failure are about the only other two.

That's why you send the turbo to a reputable shop for rebuild so they catch when it is just flat out trashed (turbos should usually be rebalanced afterward too). At least the rebuild kits are cheap enough you didn't waste much cash on it.

If you have the tooling to do it I would go with the urethane press in mounts. Cheap and very effective. If not or if time is a huge concern then the above suggestion isn't bad at all on price. Getting the old ones out and pressing new inserts in is a pain in the arse with tools to do it, but...

Looks like a good find. I would be mildly concerned about the head gasket if it did overheat, but that is not much more work than a timing belt job either way. Plans sound well thought out - I would definitely go with link over an SAFC - it gives you so much more control if you can afford it.

Check both surfaces with a straight edge and make sure they are absolutely flat. A composite gasket will seat and seal well for near stock power up to probably 300+ on ARPs. Torque it down in small steps with the ARP Ultra Torque lube (say 15ft. lbs, 30, 50); then back it off 90* per nut until...

You can either leave the lines or link them together. I'd just get a fresh new hose and connect the two together, but I don't remember where they both go. Should be really easy to tell.

Oil leaks kill belts so definitely find and fix that when you do the belt. Normally a belt in car vs on an engine stand is a toss up, but since you almost certainly have to pull the head I would pull the engine and set it on a stand to the whole job. Much easier and you can clean it up and...

That is exactly what I've been looking for, thank you!Last question at the risk of sounding retarded, why did the length change in 1995? Would it be possible to mate a 95+ axle/trans-axle combo to a 1g car or is that a big fat no?And yes you are correct I am trying to see what my options...

I would suggest disassembling and thoroughly cleaning all lifters or just buy a brand new set of 3g lifters for ~$80. Stick with the stock valves. Lightly clean up the casting flash in the bowls and the jagged edges where the seats were pressed in.Cam (and spring) upgrades will generally...

Sorry I was on an Android browser and it went ape#*!@ and posted before I was finished.Not trying to upgrade, I have a 1991 Laser with a terrible grinding tranny (2nd, sometimes 1st and 5th). I'm only keeping this body so I can have something to play with until I get an AWD to put my engine...

Greetings, Does anyone know or have a definitive list of what fwd axles fit what transmissions and hubs? Searching has been fairly fruitless other than anecdotal speculation. I am fairly certain there was a change over in 1993 on the (manual) transmission side, but nothing is clear other than...

How about doing all of your maintenance? I'm 5 months in and still not caught up enough on that to even think about moving on yet. Then DSMlink, Injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and a bigger turbo. I suspect a small 16g properly tuned will take you to 300+ hp and close to the 12s. In...

Greetings, I recently purchased my first DSM, a 1992 Laser RS Turbo, and am trying to get caught up on all of the major maintenance that it needs. Most of the little things are taken care of and I'm in the middle of replacing the timing belt and associated components right now. The big...

Hi to a fellow Hoosier (Martinsville). If you know what size fittings you need on the engine side then take your turbo up to Earl's on Gasoline Alley and they can make your hoses on the spot. Not as cheap as some online places but they can get you setup and back on your feet asap. Bring as...