Ahh I see where i messed up. I thought the lower arm used an eccentric bolt but it’s the trailing arm that uses it. My bad.

Would I have to order two kits? I’m just gonna see if I can salvage the oem bolts in the car first. If I can’t save the bolts I’m gonna try and see if I can’t adjust alignment good enough with regular bolts for free before dropping money on new bolts.

Well I haven’t found out if mine are salvageable yet 😂 I’m trying to order up everything before I start this project. If I can do without eccentric bolts then I will.

Anybody with experience know if the eccentric bolts are optional with adjustable volk arms? Rather save myself $80 if I can.

I have a few questions regarding shimming my rear differential pinion gear. I am currently rebuilding a 4 bolt rear diff and I have .015” backlash. Looking for maybe some reference on how much shim to add to the pinion.Also curios if this is a safe website to order a shim pack from...

Well I pulled the rear drivers axle out and what do ya know 😅I think I’ll be doing a 4 bolt swap when I can get my hands on one. But for now I’m gonna hunt down a 3 bolt axle. Thanks guys!

I had some time to swing by the garage today and jack up each wheel to see how they behaved while in gear. -Both front wheels rolled freely about an inch and then had resistance but could still rolled if I forced it. -Back passenger wheel same thing as fronts and I could see driveshaft turning...

Mine has LSD diff. I stopped by and looked at the axles. All looks good besides a newly discovered leak. Seems to be a clue something is wrong here because it never leaked from here before. I will drain it and pop the cover off tomorrow afternoon.

I have not tried to feather the throttle to get going any faster. Just seems to “slip” almost instantly.I will check the rear axles once I’m off work in an hour

I really don’t know in detail what is inside the transmission and transfer case. That’s why it’s hard for me to diagnose this issue. I figured clutch would be cheapest easiest fix so I went ahead and did it. My assumption is leaning on a bad center diff. It’s just weird that I can get rolling...

Brand new disk and pressure plate when I installed the old one. And both new pp and disk this time as well. Yes I verified both times when I had it resurfaced with a depth mic from my tool box at work that has been calibrated recently and his measurements match mine. Last time I had it...

Already did that. Here are pictures of all the components. I already replaced these items last weekend and my problem still persists.My clutch is adjusted properly as I can still push my slave towards the drivers side of the car.

I sent flywheel out for resurface, I bought a new act 2600pp and 6 puck sprung disk (same thing I was running at the track)and installed it over the weekend. I’m 100% certain it is not clutch related.Old Pressure plate had some heat spots but no failures from what I could see. Disk had seen...

I just got the transmission installed last night and checked it before I took it around the block. Fork sits slightly towards the drivers side in the window. There is no pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate.

I can get rolling but I can’t accelerate over 10mph if I had to guess. It’s so weird I’m really unsure what the issue could be besides inside transmission. Motor idles and behaves normal.

I can still depress the slave cylinder towards the drivers side. I didn’t have any issues until I launched at the track. As soon as I launched the rpm’s shot through the roof and I couldn’t accelerate. No fringing happened or odd noises. I know for a fact my clutch is adjusted correctly with a...

This issue happened after launching at the track. I can get into every gear just fine. I can get rolling but if I give it gas the rpm’s go up and car does not accelerate. I thought it might be due to a faulty pressure plate or glazed clutch. I just replaced the clutch disk/pp/ and resurfaced...

Another way to tell if clutch is dragging is if you can't shift to the next gear at high rpm's. Sounds to me like a very worn first gear synchronizer.

Update: threw a 17psi spring in the wastegate and hooked up hallman boost controller I had. She's holding boost above 20psi Thanks for all the info.

That's actually a great idea. Clean and easy install.

It's like $85-95 unassembled and $185-195 assembled. It would be worth paying the assembled price if you didn't have they tools and supplies to solder to the board.

Anybody running one of these sequential shift lights? I'm pretty set on buying one and was interested where you might have decided to mount things.

I have too many hobbies on top of Fishing,video games,2A. Been really trying to find a balance and give up some things to make more time for the more important hobbies.

I believe I had to change something I. Ecmlinm to get it working properly. I found the answer through forums. Let me see if I can find it again. I bought a new iat thinking that would fix it too but that wasn't the issue.

I have not bench tested the gate or anything. It's brand new and I'm 100% on the fire ring being the right away.

Greatly appreciated! I just built this motor two years ago with absolutely no experience inside an engine. Nearing 1k miles now... So partly been going through a break in. I am also new to tuning cars and have been learning a lot this past year. Im finally at a point I feel confident turning the...

•Hx35 8 blade •Archer fab manifold •Bullseye housing •tial MVS open dump on 02 housing • custom 3" side exitBoost source is at bottom of wastegate(top port vented) and goes directly to compressor housing. 10 psi or 20psi springs set ups really don't change it. Boost just climbs to 25+ psi...

mm÷25.4=English measument

Check out what I just cane across on Facebook

Besides wiring, do you think these would be direct bolt in? Or would you have to rig them to bolt up?

Kind of a story. Sorry if it's long but hopefully it helps somebody. I fought clutch issues all year and finally figured it out. I had almost the same issue where I would roll to a stop shortly after bleeding the slave and wouldn't be able to shift into any gear. Sometimes it happened within 5...

Yes that's the correct way

I have been following this to tune for speed density. I've never tuned before and It has helped me a ton.

What I meant by vacume block is the barbs off the back of the magnus smim not an independent deal. But you've answered all my questions. Thank you!

El Cuervo that's a nice one. I've already ordered PN #E9T170 and a used isc from performance partout. Still by far the cheapest route $50 for E9T170 Shipped and $30 for a good isc. Now my question is does it matter if I plumb 8" before the throttle body and on the magnus SMIM vacuume block? Or...

Hmm that fftec would be a cleaner set up. If i can't find that adapter I may give Miguel's post a try. Thank you.

I bought this car with a magnus smim and this professional products 75mm mustang throttle body. Same one thats on extremepsi. I'm tired of messing with my idle and warming the car up myself. Is there any way to get an isc on this thing?

I'm not sure if it's NPT I just assumed being a hydrolic line. But I will make sure tonight.

Previous lines are in the landfill lol. It won't go into any gear when it happens. I think i goes master cyl.---NPT to AN adapter---braided line---slave. I don't believe I used any teflon on the NPT thread. I will look it over when I get back home tonight.

I followed those exact steps in bleeding except when I'm stranded lol. No I did not bench bleed the master. I didn't know that was a thing until digging into the forums later Clutch release point feels normal until I come to a random stop and then i can't get into gear but pedal still pretty...

New gates master and slave. Watched jafro and jacks videos. Tried an extended and oem slave rod. No leaks. pivot ball not shimmed Unsure of flywheel step height. Everything seemed fine til I put this used braided hose on. After a few miles of in town driving I lose my clutch at a stop. Won't let...

What are the 4 white wires for exactly?

Here is what I did. I already had a wire ran to fuse box. I even got my shut off in my trunk key hole. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/battery-master-shut-off.527804/#post-153755964

This pretty much looks like what I did and would work.

Rotated the motor a bit and hydraulic tension rod pushed back up :thumb: Thanks for all the information.

I see what you're saying. I am going to turn the motor a bit and see if any tension is released off of it. I did compress the tensioner slowly in a vise when I installed it. No oil leaked out at the time. If that doesn't work I am going to pull and replace it with oem.

It is a gates tensioner off of rock auto. I was pretty meticulous about doing my timing job as well as getting that grenade pin just right. I followed vfaq on measuring gap as well. Is there something that might cause premature failure?

Car has been sitting two weeks due to fixing an oil leak. Noticed my tensioner arm is touching the hydraulic tensioner housing. I have only put like 200 miles on this tensioner. Could it be bad already?

I had a pretty good go at installing a cut off switch where the trunk lock was on my 91 talon and I thought I'd share for anybody looking to install one in the future. i did have to trim the back of the key to get it to rotate without hitting the taillight.I can post more pictures if anybody...