Whats up guys. Here's my issue. I keep seeing knock, even in 2nd gear, around mid range. Boost is set to only 15 psi and I see that my AFRs drop from 11:1 to 10:7 around 4.5k rpms, then it goes back to 11:0. Not sure if this is whats causing me to run a little richer here but that might be...
Hmm... Not sure about timing is lost and supposed to be added back.Check for loose bolts around knock sensor, check and make sure the knock sensor is tight and there is no ooze coming out of the back of it, as that is a dead give away at a bad knock sensor.Have you done a boost leak test...
Block off your PVC. Even brand new ones from the dealership leak in my own experience over like 8 psi and it can cause headaches when doing a boost leak test. With the PCV leaking air into the valve cover, it basically is leaking air into the crank case.How many miles does the motor have? An...
I believe if youre just going to run spring pressure then you don't have to have a boost controller and you can leave the top one vented. if you're going to run more than spring pressure then you need the mbc connected to the top
Head gasket is going to be a decent amount of work. You might was well replace the timing belt when you do that if its 90k on the original. Do those before throwing on the turbo. If you don't want to upgrade the injectors later you might as well get some that can handle e85 for that turbo. I...
I'm going to chime in too and say the 1.5 quart of oil loss is concerning. Especially since it was related to an overheating issue. If the car was overheating for too long you may have warped the head or blown the head gasket. Any mixing of oil and coolant?
Does the car have aftermarket cams? 145 is a bit low for compression unless you have aftermarket/larger cams. Not spooling till 6500 or so could indicate a large exhaust leak before the turbo. Also you should hook up your wideband to ecmlink so you can log that. That is crucial for knowing when...
I'm not sure that the NA oil filter housing would be considered an upgrade here.You can watch Jafros videos on youtube. You can "port" the oil gallery on the block. It's much less of a porting job as it is sanding away the rough surface of the galleries to a more smooth finish.If you have...
I agree. The SAFC is a very primitive device for tuning. Enough boost will get you to 300 hp, but with a better tuning device like LINK you can get more hp out of your boost.
You really should measure the oil pressure off the head before deciding on a restrictor size. The turbo probably has a recommend oil pressure range from the manufacturer. Other things will come into play too, like if you have oil squirters or BSE.
Whats up guys. I've been into DSMs for about 9 years now. I moved to Tucson back in January, got my DSM out here and ive been working on it for about 4 months now. It's almost road worthy and I would love to meet some DSMers in Tucson.Additionally, and unfortunately, my car has a little bit of...
Check the head for warpage, deck it if need be.While you've got the block apart, you might want to consider the oil port and oil gallery mod as seen on Jafros YouTube page
+1 on jafros videos on youtube. Very helpul. What year is your block out of? If it's an early 7 bolt you may want to consider swapping to 6 bolt or later version 7 bolt with the split thrust washer design.
Definitely start with a boost controller, boost gauge and wideband. At least that way you can keep the boost down and you won't tap out your fuel system. After you've got those, go for the fuel upgrades and tuning.
Whats up guys.
Recently I started got around to tearing down my 6 bolt that had some bad rings and started to build everything for a 20g. I had been running just a 14b on a rebuilt oem 6 bolt. I only put 8k miles on it, but it had 120psi across the board and leakdown test pointed to the rings...
Hey guys, I know many of you are going to say this has been covered 1000x times, but I recently got my block back from the machine shop. They just used a ball hone since there was plenty of cross etching in the cylinder walls. I have been gapping piston rings, putting the rings in and out of the...
No spark. Car had good compression at the time of sale. I doubt compression went bad after 100 miles of driving it.Would I be able to notice the crank pully moving when someone hit the clutch? I didn't think crankwalk was very visibly noticable.
I just bought a 97 GST Spyder. On the way back the CE light came on and it started sputtering. It died and now won't start. No spark. It threw a code for random misfire. Cleared that. Still won't start. I tested the voltage and resistance on the crank sensor and I get nothing. Could this be...
Correct. I should have clarified that there is no possibility that I will see an increase in compression and now I am going to have to pull the motor.I have started a build thread, you can follow it here if you like :cool...
Where to start... Well i've had my white 95 tsi awd for 7 years, and it was more or less my first car that wasn't a hand me down from my parents. So she is my baby.For the first 4 years she was in the shop seemingly for more than she was running. Finally, my father and I started doing all...
Well its started misfiring under boost even on brand new plugs so I'm afraid that may be compression related. Also I need another vehicle to rely on before I risk making this one undrivable.Also I called hasting piston rings and told them what was happening. They said they is absolutely no way...
Well, the leak down test confirms that the piston rings are the source of the lost compression :'( Well, here comes a build journal in the near future I guess :/
He knows I would not pay someone for an engine job so I would think he's not trying to get to to blow it up.He has built dozens of dsms and said he has seen an engine take up to 20k miles for rings to full seat with the high tension rings. He also mentioned if they were low tension rings they...
Crank is lined up too. I'm at the mitsu dealer talking to a mechanic and he said if it was build with high tension rings they may just not be seated yet and to go drive the piss out of it and try to seat the rings.
So an update, I drove the car home (about 400 miles) and I noticed I was still getting pretty good gas mileage on the highway, about 22-25 mpg, which leads me to believe that the motor does have good compression.I am getting a leak down test tool this afternoon and that will help me...
This doesn't make any sense. the vac line to the boost gauge is usually a thinner more brittle plastic line which it why is does fail in time as you mentioned. The rubber or silicone vac lines are much more reliable and less likely to become brittle after the years. Thus, relying on the silicone...
Well, it is true. If there is a leak in that line then the FPR will not see the correct level of boost and thus fuel pressure will be off, thus AF will be off. There is no arguing that. The main argument is "will it ever leak" or "can something happen to cause a leak there" which personally I...
It is a stock rebuild with a metal head gasket, so I know that the metal HG could lower compression, but definitely not by the amount that I am seeing.There was a warranty, I can't remember exactly how much it was for, however I probably voided the warranty by pushing more than stock boost...
Well its a 1g motor, 6 bolt. Ill see what I can do about the leak down test. I mean, I did baby it for the first 50 miles, but I definitely made it a point to vary the rpm and loads.Big Question: Is there any way that bad rings/unseated rings could leak to failed bearings or any other damage?
So I figured I would move this discussion over from the turbo tech since thats where it started.I put a rebuilt 6 OEM bolt engine in my car back in august and so far I have about 4k miles on it. Right now it is burning a significant amount of oil (a quart every couple hundred to a thousand...
I just meant is there any speculation on the condition on the bearings? Is there a known link between bad piston rings and the bearings maybe getting insufficient oil? I will most likely replace them however.Was there a flaw in my break in procedure mentioned in one of my previous posts? I...
So basically I am looking at having to rebuild the engine. But, the pistons and rods should still be okay to use since they only have about 4-5k miles on them right? I know I might as well replace all the seals while its apart, but would the bearings need to be replaced? Is there any change they...
Incorrect oil? I used conventional oil, I can't remember the brand but perhaps 5w-30 or 10w-30. I ran only about 3-5 lbs of boost for the first 500 miles, then 10 for the next 500, then 16 for the next 500, then 20 again after another 500.I bought the rebuilt block from a shop out in...
Well, I pulled out all the plugs which were very fouled with oil (especially since they only have about 4k miles on them) Then I disconnected the fuel injectors, screwed in the testing unit to each cylinder and cranked it over with the throttle wide open. Only read 110-120 across the board...
Well crap...:banghead: I noticed blue smoke from the exhaust. Sure enough im burning a little oil, from what I first thought would be the borrowed turbo because it was old and had a lot of miles on it. Did a compression test and I found about 110-120 psi across the board.The motor only had...
Honestly I would have called a lawyer. Ive had shops mess up jobs before, like on my 94 buick lasabre, i had a brake job done, they messed up and didn't tighten a fitting all the way, leading to a fluid leak, leading to me having no brakes. Luckily my brakes went out when I was in the...
Alright. I'll toss it out. I'll be looking for a 20G to buy then.My main question is still do you guys think there is much risk of fragments getting into the intake and causing damage?
Well i just died a little on the inside :barf: :ohdamn:What are the chances that I still have metal fragments floating around in my engine/oil and what can I do about it?I just send some drawings and dimensions out to get quoted for machining, but in the meantime here are some pictures...