When you say you have pushers AND pullers do you have them directly in front of each other?Also wrapping the manifold significantly lowered engine bay temps when I did it, too the point where you could touch a runner for a second if you wanted to.
Have you tried to install pusher fans? Instead of going through all the trouble changing your turbo set up, try installing a hard core pusher fan on the front side of the radiator. (of course that's if you ruled out any other cooling issue possibility)But yea, that t3/t4 adapter won't...
Has anyone found out a way to use link with a chrome book? I know that the chromebook was very limited to what programs can be ran on it. For instance there used to be no way to download torrents on one, but now you can buy downloading a certain app to allow it. Has anyone used a chrome book for...
Has anyone found out a way to use evoscan and or ecu flash with a chrome book? I know that the chromebook was very limited to what programs can be ran on it. For instance there used to be no way to download torrents on one, but now you can buy downloading a certain app to allow it. Has...
I would definitely still change it. Just for the simple fact that the previous owner "doesn't know" when it was changed last, pretty much tells you that it wasn't changed through out the time they owned it. For piece of mind it's worth it.
imho, srt4s sound like garbage, all the throaty pops and drone - brown note like - sound waves that deficate on your ear drums throwing off your equilibrium, is far from good sounding... Imho... Lol but in all seriousness, a 3 inch down pipe and waste gate dump will probably get you...
Good to hear! and a little off topic, but you will probably want to put your wide band further down your exhaust, like toward the end of your down pipe at the top. Heat that close to your turbo can wear your sensor faster, and lead to an off indication. But once again glad to hear you got...
Well you could just go ahead and delete what you want to delete, make sure to block off everything you need to block off (egr, remaining empty barbs on IM , etc...) and take a note of the remaining hoses and where they go, then take them out, take to autozone, and have them cut you out...
The op said his machinist told him he needs to go .5 over, so his stock valve train won't be an option. I say go for the cheapest of the bunch. They are all proven names in the performance industry. And for your goals, they are more than good enough
If you want fast revs, easy Rev matching when you heel toe, and more clutch work to take off then keep the lightweight flywheel, if you want a smoother more enjoyable ride, keep the stocker
I would count break in miles as long as it's like city driving (stop and go) with lots of shifting. When you are on a highway the clutch isn't dragging and breaking in, it's just clamped still against the flywheel. I speak from experience
If that hole is leading just into the open crank case and not an oil galley then you won't lose oil pressure. If it's connected to a galley then you have a problem. I just don't know if that is an oil passage or not. I don't think it is because the oil passage mods don't say anything about...
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-how-tos-installations/485682-how-another-diy-catch-can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.htmlThere is a thread I read up on back in the day, this guy does a pretty good job with making a cheap eBay set up, into a good functioning baffled closed set up
I've used a cosmetic Mls, on just a re decked head, and me just scraping away at the short block surface and it sealed fine with an fp black at 29#s and normal arp studs, but I probably just got lucky
Your best bet is probably the classifieds, but if you want something more bang for your buck, I would look into holset turbos, they are within your price range of you look good enough, but it also depends on your supporting mods to see if it's worth it. Good luck!
I haven't personally opened up or removed a dsm climate control panel. But I'm assuming the knobs are connected to some type of cable or gear configuration. I would trace that first and look for any binding and or bent cables, worn gears etc...
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-how-tos-installations/485682-how-another-diy-catch-can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.htmlThere is a thread I read up on a while back and he did some pretty good baffling with simple stuff
Yea if that was a cat, you wouldn't really be able to see the other side due to all the "filtering" media inside of it. Autozone can get universal high flow cats from magna flow I believe
My money is on a ground. I always like to clean up my grounds with a file to ensure good metal to metal contact, whenever I buy an older car, Good luck!
Are you sure that's not just the noise of the compressor wheel still spinning after you shut the car off? I had a dbb fp black in my evo and after I shut it off it would continue spinning for about 30-45 seconds, and it did sound like pressure was leaking. Take your intake off then start the...
Reason why turbo timers are a good mod in my opinion. I don't understand why people hate on them, after a joy ride, it would be nerve racking to have to sit in my car that extra time. Thanks for that info!
you could just do a leak down test with a gauge in the thermostat housing where the cap is and see if the pressure goes up. If so then it would point towards the head gasket being the culprit
I wouldn't run it hard anymore until you get a tune, last thing you need is to go out for a joy ride, and come back on a Trailer. You could be knocking and don't even know it
What about the one right next to it? The one right underneath the big after market sending unit, is that the factory oil pressure unit? Or is it another cap? I ask this because it doesn't seem to be connected to anything
300??? I'll buy it from you for 400! Lol. But in all seriousness, I would go through the car with a fine tooth comb before you actually put your life into the integrity of the car and drive it because for 300 dollars who knows what's wrong with it. Great find though!
^^^that, or the stage 2, I would go stage 2 if you are trying to stray away from on/ off switch feeling, not saying that the stage 3 is a switch, but the stage 2 is less of one.I know you are probably set on the 2 options that you posted, but I would rather go with the brand clutch that...
I currently work at autozone and I can't count how many times customers would come in with water pumps completely rusted, and trash rusted radiators, all with one thing in common. TAP WATER. After you are done flushing I would dump some rusty treatment / preventative in there that coats...
You can find numerous OEM o2 sensors for like 40-80 dollars, straight plug in too, you can find them on amazon. Bosch, denso, good brands no knock off names
Yea sounds like your transmission. And to the op, using a light weight flywheel isn't the most fun thing to drive as a daily. It takes more clutch work to start going, I had a lightweight one in my evo and it took a while to get used to. But I didn't mind.