I've put a known working ECU in and still no spark, so yes.

It's not really the CEL that I'm worried about. I'm more worried that I'm not getting spark and figured that the two would be connected

I know, I just always forget when I'm at harbor freight, I race a 4cyl dirt class, I ALWAYS need one.

Thank you pacn

The 2L 4G63 sorry

what exactly is blow-by? ive heard the term a lot but never seen it explained

I have one at my disposal. also replaced CAS with known working and MFI Relay with one that works. At this point everything electrical in my spark system is a known working part. checked all fuses in fuse boxes and there all good. is there a fusible link or anything of the sort that might cause...

I have oil in my intake from the TB to the intercooler, I stopped driving it about a month ago and just recently pulled it apart to start lookign around, the car wont idle but will drive and has lost compression on a couple cylinders, I'm sure something with my motor is gone, but is my turbo...

Isn't the CAS 180* out?

I thought 1gs only had an MPI fuse

This is for my N/T 1g with a 6 bolt.I can't get this thing to spark for the life of me even after replacing all ignition components minus CAS which I plan on doing tomorrow if I have time. My main question is could this be a wiring fault? And if my CEL doesn't come on for the ~5 seconds when...

it almost looks like what would happen if you were given the wrong bearing size.

not trying to be rude but did you even read my post?

At the end of last race season I left my dirt hornet car outside and had no-start issues. I have my first race tomorrow and I was wondering if my turbo ecu will at least let my car start so I know its an ecu and not a transistor or etc. Thanks in advance.

I applied for a loan today so that I can get my rebuild going, :fingerscrossed:

Than feed from the head.

Should drop straight in. When I did my 14b in 1g auto swap I just used the stock water lines than fed oil off the ofh

Here's one from when she was running

I'll start from the beginning. I bought this pretty little girl the day after Christmas last year, pulled her home on about a 3 hour drive, that ended in a dent on the drivers rear quarter panel right behind the door :(Replaced the head with one I pulled off an old 90 gst that looked recently...

So I should just drill the oil pan for a -10an line and weld it in? How would I go about making my turbo drain from a -an line? Is there a writeup or vfaq?

I think I'm getting new pistons from NPR. I'll look into itm bearings thoughAnd I saw that post before but I can find any couplers to go around the 2" inlet and the PVC cap I boughtThe itms have are for around "350ish horsepower" I would rather spend more for the peace of mind of knowing I'm...

I did compression and my results were mostly decent except cyl 3 which was at 90 psi. Do you have any suggestions on some budget bearings good for around 400hp?

I've read that. Yesterday my car took a crap on me (won't idle and dies coming to stop lights) it seems to pull a lot harder now though... I don't know why, I'm lost on this. I've set base timing and my BISS screw grounding the corresponding plugs for both and still nothing. I'm also 99% sure...

That looks like a vaccuum nipple and a hose clamp to me

If it's that expensive ill stick with the 6 bolt pistons. Might just reuse the stockers depending on how much my machinist charges me as it is. Without pistons, bearings, timing components, water pump, and gasket I'm looking at 330 or so right now. That's with my 400$ a month job mind you. :(...

I'm building a 6 bolt short block because mine is getting close to its end :(. I'm wondering if I should go with 7 bolt pistons but what kind of machine work does this take? I read something about them hitting the oil squirters not too long ago. And don't I also have to have my rods machined for...

Making a boost leak tester because today while doing a compression test I found that I'm running rich (plugs were black up into the threads) I'm hoping this is because of boost leaks even though my motor is due for a rebuild (90ish psi on cylinder 2). My main question in asking this is what size...

I'm hoping that's the case. I'm really getting tired of my car on a serious note. It's always been something and I've only had it for about a month. I think I'm burning something also but not sure...

I was timing my car today... For about the 5-6 time. I was playing around after timing and hooking it up to the other cyls and noticed that cyls 2 and 4 seem to fire when they want to... They'll have a burst of fires than stop for half a second or so and fire again. My main question in asking...

I have three laying around and the these two are cracked. The other one is missing the breather nipple that goes to the snorkel. Do those just pull out or what do I have to do?

There isn't any oil in my spam plug wells and it puddles relatively quick. I'll try another oil cap

I can't actually see the crack. I have no idea where it really is. I just know it's there because oil puddles in the VC when I drive. I'm losing it pretty fast now. It just recently started doing this so I don't really know what's ping on.

My VC is cracked small enough so that I can't see I but it's enough so oil to push itself up through the crack. Would a good repaint fix/bandaid this problem until I can find a good VC?

Yeah runs and drives fine. I fixed my breather off the VC also I didn't know about the biss but I did know about the timing

I have the nipple on the VC I'm pretty sure I lost the insert able nipple that slides in the snorkel though... My car ran fine like this before. It just recently started doing this after I timed the car

How much would the stuff to make one cost on average? I only have around 20$ for the next week or so. Also the breather tube from my VC to my intake snorkel is left open (capped off intake and was going to get a breather filter for the VC) would this cause the problem to be the severe?

I recently replaced my ISC because my 91 laser was surging pretty bad. Now the car doesn't surge per say but the car won't stay running or if it does chugs down to about 500 rpms and revs itself back to between 700-1000 rpms. Could this be my base timing being off, vaccuum leaks, etc? I tried...

Yeah I did ground that little 2 prong connectorWhere is the isc?I'm always looking for DSMs around my area, unfortunately salvage yards aroun here don't keep cars after around 15 years, so 1g's are out and 2g's are scavenged to a bare shell. I shot a video on my way home of how it's acting...

When I said timing I meant base (ignition) timing

I recently bought a timing light and timed my car. Set it at 5btdc and lined up the cam marks. Everything seemed good until I started driving. My idle got very Lopey and wanted to die at stop lights (it did a couple times) I think it may be a misfire but I'm not sure.. Anyone have any ideas? I...

#6 could also be timing. I'm having similar issues but I played with my CAS and it helped quiet a bit.

I'm going to sound really dumb because I don't have link yet but your saying that I would just set it pretty much saying its an lc1 sensor

I'm thinking the mtx-l looks like a great option considering the reviews and my highschool kid budget... I don't think I see anyone running it into link though. Anyone have any info on this?

Your air fuel is most likely due to the 550s and not being compensated for I don't have any experience with aem ems on the other hand, so hopefully someone else can chime in

The mtx l looks like a good choice but it seems like for every good review on it theirs another bad saying it started wigging out a week later.

Mine personally wouldn't start back up for the life of me. I would get a buddy car and start swapping ignition parts if possible

That's what I was planning on doing... Did you get the power sports version o the mtx l or the regular?And how was it to install?And also how long do the sensors last and would I have to buy a whole new wideband kit to replace it?

Are you running it to a pillar pod?

Recently got my first running turbo dsm and now I'm a freak about knowing EVERYTHING that goes on with the car. I plan on getting link soon so I want one that will work well with link. Also where is everyone running their gauges wires/line for a pillar pod? I'm currently running my boost gauge...

One hot wire (just tap into something that gets power) ground the black wire (I think it's black, I didn't wire in my light) and a vaccuum source.