Quote on Ebay:"This BOV is off of an SR20DET. Some people say this BOV will hold 20 psi, but I never boosted over 13 psi. This would be a great BOV for anyone trying to piece together a turbo kit. Also has the same mounting flange as a 1G DSM, so it could be used as an upgrade for a 2G DSM."...
I have always wanted to hide my antenna, and I was planning on buying the powered hidden antenna from procarparts.com for $350 US or, whatever the price is. But, I was in my local audio shop the other day, and seen a nice simple 2 wire powered antenna for $60 CAD. Installed it today, and works...
Ok, I am using the ball and spring type hallman MBC, and it has a little tiny bleeder hole in it.So, I used to have it hooked up from turbo nipple straight to wastegate... but then I heard an argument that it should be T'ed off the BOV line because you want to control the PSI in the intake...
Is the wiring harness the exact same? Can I just make the break at the halfway point and plug and play the SAFC II without actually removing the old wiring at the ECU from the first SAFC and connecting the new harness?
yeah... but like you said... there is vac at idle. Air should be getting sucked into the BOV at idle if it were leaking. Not coming out. When air is blown out of the BOV there is excess psi in the IC pipes.How do you have the BOV hooked up? Where have you sourced the BOV nipple, and the...
escaping... it should be sucking in air... the only way it would be blowing out air would be if your turbo was pushing more air at idle than your engine naturally took in.
if you are adding that much fuel, something is wrong. Send Jeff an email, hes a good guy and can help you out. Maybe the chip was made for 660s or something by misstake.Maybe you have a boost leak, and unmetered air is getting in, so you have to add fuel (air). make sure everything is tight.
If you want an RPG where your choices actually make a difference in the game, then take last years game of the year Star Wars knights of the old republic. If you like star wars games, this game has replayability. If only Fable had as many variables as Star wars KOTOR. Fable is just a short...
i have an RNR exhaust, and I told him to make it straight, but it still came crooked. So I cut off the muffler, got a couple of 90 degree bends and put on my own muffler straight. No clearance problems.I think the only reason people have crooked mufflers is because their thinking is less...
all connections soldered, and as far as I know, perfect.I think I need to find someone local who has as MSD ignition as well, and try out his MSD to rule out whether o rnot its the actual MSD control box thats the problem.
Yeah, I know about the timing pull, but I dont think that would account for 2 seconds. No exaust leaks, and no boost leaks, and the turbo feels like its fast... but when I get my slip I discover it really wasnt that fast.Is there anything that could be getting old in an auto tranny that...
Well, I installed MSD ignition hoping for the best, and I got the worst. Ok, actually, I just got a little worse. It still runs/idles/drives/accelerates the same. Accept, every once in a while, randomly (it seems) the car will stutter as if I let off the throttle (like no spark at all) and then...
that picture looks exactly the same as the COP that slowboy makes and sells... Ill let you know how it works out for me in a couple weeks when I get mine.Yes, you just take the 3 wires from your wiring harness and extend them under the spark cover. Or, if the COP is a good one, there will...
I guess that would work... as long as you didnt have an airbag.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55786&highlight=mounted+afchttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131982&highlight=mounted+afc
the 1G TPS has 3 wires, and the 2G TPS has 4 wires... is that the sensor you are talking about? If so, just take the TPS off your old throttle body and swap... if not... I dont know what im taking about.
same thing for me too... was switching my rims and the first 3 went fine. Then I come to the passenger side front tire and a stud breaks. So, I put the rim on with the 4 lugs and drive to the dealer to buy 5 new studs. Get home, take the rim off, and in doing so, another stud breaks. So...
Or, you hve a boost leak. So, the turbo could be pushing 20 psi worth of air, but 5 psi is wasted out the leak, and your intake mani only sees 15 psi. So, try a leak test.
FIPK is bigger, way more expensive, and bolts right onto your mas.Generic 3" cone is smaller, usually much cheaper, but you need to buy an adaptor for your mas.
ok... never knew that... however, like he said conveniently in the part that you quoted... the knock doesnt go away until the throttle is completely let off, and then opened again. So... no "decay"But, at WOT, it does come and go.
blue is power. Black is always ground.However, you should really go out and spend the $3 on a current tester from your local auto DIY store. You'll use it at least a few times when doing your wiring... and its cheap.
Well... it is an Auto, with the stock converter, so that will give me lower 60 ft times than a manual.When I bought the car 1 and a half years ago the compression was 150 across... but, Ill be checking it again here.My time is also 14 psi, full weight, including sub and spare.... but...
4G63's are not cheap up here compared to the States. We actually have to try not to blow our engines.And neither are the cars. 99 turbos still sell for $20,000 - $25,000 CAD here.
block heaters do not come on US destined cars, but, are "options" (standard) in all canadian destined cars. Its called an option, but its just another thing the car dealerships charge us for upon delivery of a new car.