Haha I figured that, I'm just wondering where to look first.

I have already started tearing it apart. I just need to know what I'm looking for damage wise. 5th gear shift fork was in perfect condition.

When it I is in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or reverse it will stall the car when the clutch is let out. But when put in neutral or fifth the car will take off. I know this means that it's stuck in multiple gears. I also know it could be cause by the poppet springs/balls and it the shift rail. But I'm...

If that's what you want that's fine, I would suggest getting another head from the junk yard, look for the most stock engine you can find and pull the head, use the specs I gave you and check the measurements. And resurface it if necessary. That'll be a lot cheaper.

are you sure the swap was done like this? there are many other ways it could have been done, it is very easy to use a 2g engine mount on a 6-bolt block, you just have to trim a piece for the water pump, if thats the case, then just pick up a new mount for like 20 bucks and bolt it up to your 7-bolt.

you need to use the tranny according to the engine, there is too much work into interchanging them and its simply not worth it. throw a 6-bolt in it with the proper transmission.

if their is no cracking in the pistons then they could work, there could potentially be hot spots on the piston if there is a dent when its running, but im sure it'll be fine. now for the knock sensor just solder it, you wouldn't even need it actually it would just set a DTC.

Total allowable for both head and block is .008 and that's on a stock head gasket with a crush thickness is .038 so if you get a thicker head gasket then that'll make up for the machining. I not sure exactly what your asking but I hope this helps.Hope this helps you further..

If both the block and head are mirror finished, stick with the cometic. I am about to install one and have heard numerous good things. As someone else stated above, most problems come from improper install. Get a set of ARP head studs and follow the installation instructions exactly. You should...

As he said the fans are only need for low speed and idle, so I would check for restrictions in front of the radiator or in the cooling system. The PCM would be the last thing I would check, I would test for continuity or voltage on the wires between the PCM and the relay and the relay in the...

If you could post a couple pictures I could let you know, but like the first person said, check those numbers and see if they match.

I would use what is on the car, but here is a better solution which will cost some money, but should be well worth it. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=23253&cat=0&page=1

Yeah I understand that but that oil port is a very crucial part of the oil system.

Weld it? Heat distortion?

Wow man... That's really bad.. I see a leaking head gasket.. Umm forever... This is how it's supposed to look. (When I did it)

Yeah that would be fine, I would just check it in about a month to make sure it's remaining tight!

I would take the valve cover off and check all the lifters, I wouldn't trust someone guessing on here just by what you say. Take it off and check all the lifter and rocker arms for binding. Also do the fingernail check on the cam lobes. Look for deep gouges. Hope it helps!

If anything was to cause that not to move in my opinion is that it is seized inside, if it's brand new, return it and get another!

Have you done any tuning lately? Pushing more boost?

I would call your local dealer and give them your vin and they will match one up for you!

I have the option too get a whole 1g AWD drivetrain for a great price! Thanks!

I found the ones I'm looking at, I have never heard of Ross and I'm all doing this by eat, I've heard great things about these pistons..

Which ones should I go for, none specifically say. "Stroker".. I have purchased any

We'll they sell "stroker kits" and they have pistons with them so I figured they might re-sell a brand if piston, how about wiseco?

Ok that helps, I was looking for some eagle stroker pistons, but I didn't really stumble upping anything, anyone got any or know where the best place to get a set is?

I haven't got them yet.. But here is one rod..

Hey guys, I just purchased a set of eagle stroker rods and a 100mm stroker crank, I'm wondering what pistons are available for these rods that fit standard bore? Thanks!

I don't believe it has been messed with, I cleaned it a lot..

Sorry to confuse you, I meant the top of the valve where it seats. But yes the bottoms are different, not sure why... I would really like to know if these are aftermarket valves or not?..

The valves are identical on the bottom, seats and all..

Ok I took apart a head that I bought for a build I'm doing and when I pulled the valves the seats looked great so I cleaned the valves up and as I was I noticed some markings on the end of the valve stem's.. It was in the exhaust side at the end. As you can see there is four valves that are...

No people can simulate using reviews from products.

Your setup is similar to my build an that was an estimate for me.

375-380 hp

I'm pretty sure when it flickers that means low oil pressure, I may be wrong but I would check it.

Are you getting lean codes? To me it sounds like you need bigger injectors. At high RPM's your engine is getting its maximum amount of air input, so if your injectors aren't big enough to keep up then that's why you have a loss of fuel.. It could e because you just put a new turbo on. The PCM...

For the valve cover, you probably tightened the to tight.. They do not take very much to get them tight, had tight is enough. It may not crack right when you tighten it but increased crankcase pressures could have been the last straw on it.. I'm sorry if this had already been answered but I...