Yea i havent been able to access it for awhile. It was working a couple months ago though.

boosted1stgen submitted a new DSM Profile :My fun dailyRead more about this vehicle here...

Anyone?

They are LF061J. Then below that are nte7142

Can someone tell me exactly what this cable is. I thought data logger but it has a lot to it. Has serial 9 pin on one end. Two female spade connectors on other end along with two wires, one which goes to led on circuit board

The day i put the 100 octane in was a day before i recieved the cradle for palm, so i wasnt able to log, yea i havent been driving it much till i figure it out. Also when i measured head before i put it on, i think the machine shop ended up taking almost 40...

Unfortunatelty i do not have a wideband yet, for what its worth the o2 readout on logger sits around .85 volts at WOT. Could a faulty cas cause the ecu to not respond to knock appropriately? And also does the adding of 100 octane causing boost to increase all by...

Alright just need some opinions, car has 1200 miles on fresh rebuild. Seems to run fine except when i get into upper rpms in boost kinda cuts out. But still goes to redline. Data logger shows some knock, sometimes as high as 20ish counts. The wierd part is itll still have 21...

Remember also that theres a big difference between mandrel bent and crush bent. The 2.5 crush bent will neck down to 2 inch on the bends. The mandrel will stay 2.5 the whole way, also carries a bigger price tag.

So i measured the thickness of the head, the micrometer i was using doesnt have the longest jaws. I was able toget readings of right around 5.160. So i guess that explains why i could never get the the pointer on the crank for timing perfectly lined up when cams were even though cylinder was at...

Heres pic of piston

Ill check my ptw clerance soon as i get home, and as far as i know this is the stock bottom end, ive had the car for about 6 years. And it sat for a couple of them.ijOh and after it was already making this knocking noise i was driving home one day and my timing belt tensioner failed. It didnt...

I pulled pistons and the one in that cylinder had a few small pieces of aluminum or some kind of metal embedded on the side at the top. the wrist pin was a little hard to move and looked like it had started cutting into piston at onr end of if. I can post a pic of it in a bit.

Upon further inspection (pulling the head off) turns out it was piston slap. that is the side of cylinder wall #4 cylinder, oh and the one piston i squeezed the edge of a .025 feeler gauge between top of piston and cylinder wall.

Pulled cylinder head off today in search of odd knocking, which turned out to be piston slap. Anyways while cleaning mating surface i realized how much material the machine shop took off last time it was there because it was warped. Is this head still usuable?

Heres number 3 which before i took cap of i could wiggle it up and down a little bit. #4 also could a slight amount. I have a video of the noise it was making, but i cant figure out how to upload it

What do you fellow dsmers think about this connecting rod bearing? I heard a knock recently and saw metal in the oil, so i dropped the pan and pulled #4 connecting rod cap off. Doesnt seem to have spun though.

Its supposed to be a smooth transition, this one isnt smooth to the top its slightly concave almost

Well i did a compression check and it was 90 across the board, adding oil to cylinder did not affect it, the head had all valves replaced with a valve job, timing is right too. Any thoughts?

Thank you 91-gs. I actually just cleaned all the lifters the other day, and they didnt seem too bad. the rockers all turn freely but some of them the roller part has a bluing color to them, kinda like they were overheated. They are the same ones from before the blown headgasket, so could be...

So i finally had my car up and running after it sat for a few years, seemed to run okay, but it had a miss at idle and when warm a ticking coming from the head. So after checking it out i pull VC off and notice the lobes leading up to the top on both cams have flat spots some on both sides, some...

Yea i cant feel them either, and seems to onlt be on some of them.

Has no one ever saw this before? Any input would be apreciated.

no one?

does anyone know what causes this? collapsed lifter possibly?

okay i have a palm m505 that came with hotsync cable which has usb connection on the end. i bought the data logging cable which is a serial plug, so my question is, can i cut the usb plug off hotsync cable and wire in a serial plug so i can plug it into logging cable?

The only thing i could think of was maybe if cam timing was off to begin with, then maybe the loose belt helped it out.

Alright so recently since i got my car running it had some tapping noise mainly when warm at idle and when accelerating. I used a stethoscope and narrowed it down to lifters(car sat few years). Anyway im driving one day and it starts running funny which turned out to be failed hyd tensioner, but...

This one is made of metal

Thats a very good question seeing as how mine still has rubber plug in it. I had replaced it like a year or two ago cause one day i had idle surge and my biss screw was missing, i wonder if its the one that came out. New one was also plastic i believe

Alright, i had my motor hanging from my engine hoist for a day or two. Today i seperated tranny and when bringin it up to attach to engine stand i found this underneath it, and ive never seen it before or recognize it. Any ideas? theres a rubber o ring at top of threads.

Thank you linksys42 i didnt even think to look to see if there was a mark there. And yes previously i had fallen asleep in the car with it running and a water pump that was starting to fail. And it overheated so bad that it lost compression and wouldnt even start anymore, had all new valves put...

Yes it was installed on cams then idler then oil, crank and tensioner. I just didnt like how the pointer wasnt exactly in the center of the groove. And since b shaft is eliminated that would make oil pump mark not important, right?

tensioner is brand new, belt has only a few miles on it but is a couple years old. im a mechanic by trade so its not the lack of knowledge i have, but i just cant seem to get it perfect. i was hoping some has seen this before and why its doing this.

Oh okay, thanks for the reply, i havent been able to test it yet, but what do you think the chances are that that coil is no good?

Wanted to see what your opinions were on this, car was sputtering real bad, couldnt rev past 2500ish. Is there something else that could have caused this other than high resistance right there ( bad connection).

Thats what i was a little confused about. Maybe my plugs are no good, cause it wasnt even running well enough to set timing yet. Real rough, and anytime id try to open the throttle up it would try to fall on its face and stall. And thats just sitting there idling, i havent tried driving it yet...

Right on and thank you, would i have to order through denso? And do they just pull off?

What do you guys think, there denso 660cc. Awhile back i blew the head gasket, and apparently melted these from overheating and after i fixed it i didnt have money for new ones. The car was spitting and wouldnt rev past 2500 ish. Pulled the plugs and they were wet and smelt of gas, now my...

That sounds like the typical idle air control valve that is either bad or needs a good cleaning. Itll start right up every time and run for a short period of time and then turn itself off.

If you can try to run a leak down test on your car. A lot of times a car with a bad hg thats only a little blown will show almost no signs or symptoms and seem to lose no coolant. ive had a car with bad hg that had 175 psi compression on all four cylinders, but when it was driving at full temp...

Yeah if theres hc's in your coolant then you got a bad head gasket. If it runs good It might only b a little blown but still blown. And with your coolant and oil mixing it will just do more damage the more you drive it. The glycol in coolant is very bad for your bearings in your motor. Itll save...

Which tester are you using, a screw in kind or the one you hold in the hole

Timing can cause 0 compression. If timings off, then on the compression stroke all four valves wont be shut to build compression. If you think you gauge is bad put hour hand over plug hole while its cranked, you should feel the air pressure coming out

Take a sample of your coolant and get it tested for hydrocarbons. That will tell you if pressure from combustion chamber is pushing past your head gasket into cooling system

If your coolant is boiling out then your cooling system is not holding pressure, check your radiator cap and make sure its good and the right one. For every 1 pound of pressure it raises the boiling point about 2 degrees. if your system is not sealed it wont be able to build pressure, which...

Yea anytime you get 0 compression is usually timing/valve related, cause ive seen motors that had a hole in a piston that would still build some kind of compression on that cylinder

Did the allen head break or the socket that holds it? I havent had good luck with craftsman ones either, i ended up finding a thick heavy duty one laying around thats worked for me, cant recall the brand of the top of my head. Might have been snap on

Check your idle air control valve, they will cause a car to start and then die right away over and over