I think this should be what you need. Someone else jump in and confirm or deny. first set of numbers is nm second is ft. lbs.Engine mount bracket nut or bolt 50-65, 36-47 2.0L EngineEngine mount bracket to bracket nut or bolt 17-26, 12-19 2.0L EngineEngine mount insulator nut (large)...

I think you need to do more reading on how a turbo works. I mean that in a nice way. Google "turbo explained"

This will give you an idea on the install... This is for a 1ghttp://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-vrsf-fmic-install.386137/However you have a 2g and if you are still on the stock T25 I think you need an adapter kit to make it work. Never owned a 2g maybe someone could chime in their. Don't be...

Start with a blt. I personally like mayo on mine!!! jk.

I agree With chump ecmlink is the way to go if you got the cash.

Look in the vendor freelance section. There a couple guys that offer this service. You will have to log with a wideband and send them the log file. Then they send you a file based off your log.

Did you properly adjust your biss after rebuilding your tb?

I would check for an exhaust leak at the manifold or close by.

Third of a can goes in the vac line on the brake booster. Then Shut it off and let it sit for atleast 30min the longer the better. Then go for a spirited drive through the entire rpm range. Third goes in gas tank to clean fuel system. The last third goes into oil I think like 200 miles before an...

Some people have luck with running 550cc injectors and a 2g maf in 1g cars with no tune. I ran this way for a couple months. Now I tune with tp.

Sounds like an ecu problem or bad/worn wiring.

Also should mention this is on the stock 14b set to 16psi.

OK so this can't possible be right. My first time logging to see what the engine is doing. I think I have everything setup right but not sure now. I was out in the country so sorry about the long log file. First pull is around 2:20 the second is around 4:00. Please point me in the right...

I think i figured out my problem. I didnt get a null modem adapter I purchased a straight through.

OK so here is my setup. I have a aldl spaded end that gets plugged into the diag port. pin's 1, 10, and 12. The other end of this cable is a 9 pin serial. I also have a keyspan serial to usb adapter model USA 19HS. To connect the keyspan to the aldl/serial adapter I purchased a f/f 9pin adapter...

Are you using synthetic oil? I only ask cuz it makes this issue* more noticeable. If so it could be *bad valve stem seals. I had smoke at idle when fully warm. The longer it would sit the worse it would smoke, especially if I would goose it after sitting for a while.

There are tons of turbos that can handle that kind of power. Depends on your build plans. Here is a great place to start readinghttp://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-upgrades-1g-4g63t.476796/

20g can be a good turbo if they are built with quality parts.

Also slow down.... Take your time with your research. That turbo would prob blow up after a few pulls. Justin on her builds some pretty good turbos for a pretty fair price. Or forced performance if ya want a solid name brand.

Fmic (front mount intercooler). I hear good things about the vrsf kit. Rewire is to rewire the fuel pump so voltage doesn't drop at higher boost. STM sells a rewire kit as I am sure a couple other vendors do as well.

Exhaust sound is a personal opinion. It will prob be louder. My system is 3 in turbo back and sounds like a tractor until 3.5k then it sounds pretty good in my opinion. As far as hp you might get 1or 2 more out of it. But you might start to boost creep because of less back pressure in your exhaust.

I also vote bigger injectors as well. Why not get 1000cc that would be perfect for a 20g running hopefully 93 octane

Or the motor mounts are completely shot. Wife's ford focus is developing this issue.

Extremepsi has a nice kit.

I have removed everything except fuel solenoid. Did it maybe a month ago. I noticed that the vacuum caps I used are already starting to crack. Didn't know if anybody had a more of a permanent solution or caps that don't wear out after 1 month. I just don't wanna have to worry about it all the time.

I have a 1g and I deleted everything except the fuel pressure regulator&solenoid . By some miracle my car didn't even through a cel....which is a little concerning. I can't say my car runs better but no more carbon in the tb is a good thing.

walk away. To risky. especially if he is asking 2500. Don't get taken for a ride.

The 255 def requires a aftermarket FPR. Aeromotive is a really popular/reliable brand. Also don't know a whole lot about the data that you logged but is it showing 19* advanced timing?? wouldn't that be a lot? someone else would have to chime in on that.

The rust on the strut is really dangerous because this is where the top of your strut connects... The strut connects in one way or another to a lot of other(if not all) front end suspension components. If it got so bad and collapsed it would def do serious damage... if you were cruising at...

I bought Cx racing exhuast from ebay and the silencer was stuck in tight as a dolphins a** hole. I ended up drilling holes in it then using something to get behind it and pull it out. Which ended up being a waste of time because I ended up cutting the muffler off and doing a custom 3.5in tip.

I had the same issue. Car came with a narrowband and it might not be super helpful but my plugs were showing lean as well. I changed my fuel filter and it helped a ton. My filter was almost completely clogged and rusty looking fuel came out once I got it off. Also you could do the fuel pump...

Well as reluctant as I was to tapping, it sounds like that is going to be the best and most permanent solution. Thanks for everyone's input and knowledge.

I have done a vaccum delete and removed the egr....so I could order this EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts Then tap into 2. on the picture and run feed from there?Also what do you recommend plugging the original nipple with?P.S also if we all just fixed what was...

I don't see how that coupler would work since there is no existing thread on the thermo housing... unless I cut the exist nipple and tapped that hole. Which is a little more work than I would like to take on.

My 1g has a coolant leak. I believe I cracked one of the lines that runs to/from the turbo. I am going to replace both oil and coolant lines just to be safe and add the bling of braided lines under the hood. I was reading up on running -6AN out of the turbo to the water pipe.....which is all...

Best quote I ever heard on tuners was "If your going to drive it like a race car, prepare to pay for repairs like it's a race car" -Not sure who it was but good advice.

Just get rid of your bcs all together and cap that vac line. Then run a line from the nipple on the wastegate to the little nipple on the j pipe.

OK any idea how much can be taken off if i want to run gsc s1? I haven't even seen the head yet so i am not sure if it is warped that badly or not. I am going to look at it tomorrow.

Not looking to raise compression. Just didn't know if there was a set number like .008 or something that would be considered to much.

Interested in building a second head off the car. If I have to get it surfaced how much can come off while keeping stock timing belt and other components??

I am currently running a 2gmaf and 550 FIC injectors and a Fuel pump rewire on my 91GST. It seems to be running good. At least I tell myself that until i get link and look at the logs :)

Had a similar issue with my 91 GST. My car would randomly rumble and stutter all over itself. The issue ending up being bad caps on ECU. Do you hear any clicking around the radio location when it starts to stumble?

Had exact same issue on my first 91 gsx. My issue ending up being the master cylinder. Internal leak.

Is the best way to determine valve stem seals by oil in the manifold? Also if it was the VSS wouldn't it smoke at start up after sitting for a while because it would drip down onto the piston??

This is a pretty strange one that I am having a poor time trying to discover what is the issue.It all started when my ecu started to fail. When ecu started to fail the CEL would kick on and the car would sputter and almost die, then it would be fine and not store any codes. Before I...

I have a small slow oil drop that is hitting my DP right after the flex section. I cleaned it up took it for a drive and there it was again. It looks like there are 2 hardlines that are directly above the dp that it seems to be coming from. What are these lines where do they go? what is the...

Thank you for all your replies. I think you guys hit the nail on the head. I did check and my wastegate arm does move so prob is the creep. I guess my next question is I do plan to get a 16g turbo down the road. Didn't know if there was a supporting mod that would go good with a 16g down the...

Seems like a lot of people have the opposite problem. My profile is updated what you see is what I have. This all started after installing the exhaust over the weekend. So my poor man MBC is set to only run about 9lbs of boost and my gauge has reflected that the whole time. Didn't want to run...