Verdict is in on the turbo....

Garrett T28 uses a Garrett T-2 flange whereas the FP Big28 retains the Mitsu flange. In other words, the Garrett sold T28 will not fit.

I just sold my Eclipse a few days ago, so I guess I am out this year...

I am selling mine for "Buy it Now" for $3500 on ebay. It's a '95 GST w/ a 6-bolt already in it. Not sure what it is exactly you are looking for, but hey, it's cheaper than the one for $4600. Of course it does have some issues, but they are all described. I'll let you find it if you are...

I am putting my car back to "stock" (not even close really), and I have a 13g just lying around here. I have a complete 1G motor in my car. I am selling the evoIII off my car and rather than try and buy an overpriced 14b, I was hoping I could make this work. After some searching, looks like I...

Well, last week I went to do a boost leak test on my car and as soon as the air compressor was hooked up, I hear this LOUD whistle. Yep, sure enough that's air shooting right out the BOV at idle. After 3 years, my HKS SSQV BOV bit the dust. We tried diassembling it to see if anything might...

If the Detroit Tigers were my hometown team, I wouldn't like baseball either.

I have been waiting for this since I was a kid. Last time the Sox were in the WS I was 6 years old and they blew it. One can only hope that this is finally THE YEAR. So far they have given RedSox Nation no reason to think otherwise.

You can get an EVOIII from just about any vendor for $130. PunishmentRacing.com also sells this one here for $145 shipped: Lots of spatter from the welds, but I have their dumped housing and it's not too bad at all.

Sell it and replace it with one that dumps back in :thumb:

LOL, yeah, I don't know WHAT that's all about. I dropped in the 1G complete motor, ground away part of the motor mount, wired up the CAS, used all 1G timing belt parts, fired it up and has been running good for 3 years! Still 160psi compression in every cylinder and idles like a champ :thumb:

You have to setup the cam gears to anticipate cam roll when there is tension on the belt. I just did my timing belt last night. The first time we did not think about that and the timing marks on the cams weren't aligned. Did you follow the manual? If so, you should have noticed this...

The only things I kept from the 1G motor was the crank pulley. All the other accessories were from the 2G motor.

According to my physics book, I have the following:1 bar = 14.50377377276 psi 1 Atmosphere = 14.695948775487 psi 1 kg/cm2 = 14.223343307769 psi 1 kPa = 7.5006168251199 psi:p

Where in FL are you at? We just did one here on my friends 99 GST. Here are the pics. It was SOOO EASY. The only thing that needed to be welded was the bracket on the top of the IC. We did this in a few hours and our only tools were a socket set, hacksaw, and a dremel. Let the pics begin:

This why I require a POSTAL MONEY ORDER for anything I sell to anyone.

Only thing that sucks about replacing them on a 2G is that the hub and bearing come as a single unit which means you are gonna drop at least $150 (conicelli price) on the part alone. Labor is easy. Just unbolt the caliper, remove the rotor, remove the big axle nut and unbolt the hub.

Yeah, doesn't sound like a wheel bearing to me either. A wheel bearing would cause vibration whenever there is extra load or a load in general on it.

I put the JDM 6-bolt in mine and I don't have the sending unit either. I've just been driving it for 3 years without it! Never bothered to jury-rig anything up.

Yeah....we actually got it all installed and working. Turns out that is a Torx-50. Just an FYI for anyone who might search for this later on.

Awesome man thanks! I never saw that vfaq anywhere!

Ok, we think we found the culprit...its a Torx head bolt on the other side of the tranny. There was no mention of it anywhere and wasn't in the list of special tools on the manual CD. I am thinking this was a '98+ thing. We didn't have a Torx bit so we are getting one tomorrow. Here is a pic...

We are in the process of putting a BM Tranny LSD insert into a 2G FWD. We have followed the VFAQ all the way. The tranny housing will NOT lift off. Here is a pic of everything that has been taken out. The reverse sensor has since been taken out as well with still no avail.

I saw on MachV's website a new tuning/datalogging tool the ECU+ www.ecuplus.comHas anyone gotten one yet? And if so, what can you say about it?

Bang for the buck, you can't beat a new SRT4. There is no other sport compact in the market that can touch it.Everything has it's place...including the SRT4. Some people like great handling cars, some like 1/4 mile monsters. While others just want a little of both. I believe that's the...

I still believe it's a flaw in some of the production runs of the crankshaft. Otherwise, either all of them or none of them would get it.

Good deal. I'd like to get my car on a dyno soon. I'm just waiting to get the FMIC on so I can just do it all at once. I am interested to see what kind of HP number I can put down as well. My only goal for the car is 300whp which SHOULD be attainable.PS- If Tallen here will get a bigger...

Thanks. I've been using the PLX M300 Wideband ( www.plxdevices.com ). That saves me the cost of going to the dyno. I am lucky to have a close friend who doesn't mind letting me borrow it whenever. The only real thing I was looking for in this post was comments on my state of tune and what I...

LOL, 100 octane at the pump here is $4.39/gal and at the track 110 is $5/gal and 112 is $6/gal.Another reason some of the guys run 700+cc injectors is to keep the duty cycle down. I would think it would be better to run 720s at 80% duty cycle than 660s at 90+%. I've also heard that once...

Not really good advice. Using the "blue-wire mod" deteriorates the O2 signal to the ECU. Also, the O2 voltage can vary from car to car and setup to setup. Not only that but it's ignored by the ECU when going WOT for a reason...it's not reliable.As for the 17psi on stock injectors, that...

I'm not an idiot. There are trolls on every board looking to start crap, I didn't know if your post was one of those. That being said, I know my ET sucks...refer to the last sentence in my initial post.

You've run faster or quicker? If faster, I would love to see a timeslip with a trap WAAAY faster than 101 :rolleyes:

RPMs O2v Timing1st gear 3772 0.97v 12 4532 1.01v 10 5588 1.01v 17 6620 1.01v 18shifting 6484 0.74v 30 5324 1.00v 112nd gear 4412 1.01v 9 4860 1.01v 11 5228 1.01v 13 5588 1.01v 16 6016 1.01v 17 6356 1.01v 17 6700 1.00v 18 7068 1.01v 18shifting 6640 0.75v 34 5712...

You can't. What do your fuel trims look like? It may be possible you are overrunning your FPR and causing the injectors to lean out on the top end from flow decreasing. It's also possible that your stock SMIC is getting heat soaked.

Holy Moly. That is unreal. I agree with Tallen, run back to where the head was rebuilt and demand some answers. Even myself who is no mechanic at all would know enough not to put a head on without the oil distribution cap!

Get the PLX one. Its $350 and comes with everything and it has a narrowband output for your ECU so it can just replace your stock O2 sensor. The best part is that replacement O2 sensors are like $62. You can see it at www.plxdevices.com

Yeah, I plan on doing a 3rd gear pull sometime today. We'll see what happens with that.

Ok cool. I plan on adding another 1% or so to the SAFC and this time do it in 3rd. Would a nice FMIC help out that timing at all on the top end? Is 17* enough or should I shoot for 20+?

RPM O2 Timing2932 0.69v 22 3064 0.09v 20 3284 0.74v 16 3552 0.93v 11 3872 0.93v 10 4276 0.93v 10 4652 0.93v 10 5056 0.93v 12 5408 0.93v 14 5816 0.93v 16 6160 0.93v 17 6516 0.93v 17 6820 0.93v 17FYI, I had to do this in second gear as there...

No, the software just doesn't work on Sony Clie's for some reason.

Wow, this is pretty interesting. I only recently got the logger and 550s and I never looked into this. I assume to adjust the AFC for the other low throttle settings other than idle, I would need to be moving to put load on the engine, am I correct?

I just installed some 550s in my car. I was using the logger to set my low throttle but something struck me- In order to maintain a 0 correction, the SAFC has to be richened up all the way to -8% at idle. Now, 1-(450/550)=0.1818181818 so I would think that a good baseline would be -18%...

Palm IIIxe or IIIc. I have the IIIxe and I can't complain. Plus it comes in handy for a lot of other little things such as a "Vehicle Log" program that keeps track of gas mileage, oil changes, and all other maintenance and car expenses. I am currently running the palmnstein program on it...

No rev means it didn't make a connection. Not assuming anything about you, but did you get the right connector from Multiplex? Also, be sure the hotsync cable is SNUG in the PDA...even if it is slightly loose, it can cause an issue.

I think he means bead them. It's like a small raised lip on the end so the coupler won't slide off. I wouldn't bend the ends, just scuff the pipe and use some JB Kwik to make a bead.

Not to mention the gasket will be mismatched and could possibly leak.

:rolleyes:Please, do a little research. The 6-bolt 4G63 can easily take more than 350 to the wheels. One of the guys from Team NABR put 471 to the wheels on a stock bottom end. I'd be more worried about floating a valve rather than the bottom end giving out.

drugs, what a winner :rolleyes:Check to see if the O2 --> Downpipe gasket got blown out. You'll lose a lot of power if you have a big exhaust leak there. I know this from experience.

I've got $10 on the FPR vacuum line. If thats what it is, spray a little hairspray on the FPR barb and then put the vacuum hose back on. It won't blow off again.

Check your power transistor to see if it came unplugged a little. That will cause your exact symptoms...except for the noise part...