I was looking into getting the DNP coated but the cost kind of killed that. I only paid $50 for it so I had to snag it. I've never ran a tubular but like you said the under hood temps are a killer and wrapping will just cause it to deteriorate faster. My Talon has turned into a donor so I'm just...
Thanks for the help. That's what I love about DSMS. Always finding "new" old things about them. Do you happen to have a link or anything to it? I've been googling the hell out of it and haven't found anything.
Looking good. I had a bolt bust off in my exhaust housing as well. The machine shop told me that it would be like $90 to get it out because of the carbide bits. I went with an ebay that I picked up for $30. Ported the waste gate port and it works fine. I had a little boost creep with the old...
I've done some searching and it looks like I have a 1g exhaust manifold but I'm not positive. The only thing that is throwing me off is the threaded hole that has a plug in it on the number 1 runner. It also says "evo header gt" between said plug and the mani to turbo bolts(can't see in pic)...
It's not THAT bad for a DSM. I helped this guy get his DSM running the other day after work. Should have seen that POS. He said he paid $400 for it. I wouldn't have bought it for that and I'll buy just about any DSM.
Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut (I'm sure you've already accomplished that), Heat it with a torch if you can't get it out by hammering/pickle fork. Also you can try to soak it with some liquid wrench and let it sit for a while.
+1 on the gates belt. -1 on the cheap belt. That is probably why the op is in the position he is in. Some @ss going cheap because they were selling it soon.
It doesn't look terrible but it's not something that I would do. I'm more into functionality though. If it's something that you want to do then do it. The paint job will definitely make or break the look though so make sure it's spot on.
There is really no reason to do anything until your fpr is being
over run (fuel pump is pumping more than the fpr relief port can handle). I would start with getting a fuel pressure gauge and when you get it up and going you can go from there to determine if you need to upgrade it or not.
If it's not getting any compression on any of the cylinders then something terrible happened when the belt came off. Either holes in the pistons or bent valves.
Thanks. I'm planning my g4cs build right now that's why I asked about pistons. As far as your fpr goes, I read a tech article on it somewhere. Google dsm fpr mod and it should pop up. Have you looked into running a thicker head gasket to lower compression? I've heard of people doing it. 9.5:1...
The stalling around corners sounds like a lack of fuel issue but the backfiring that it is doing contradicts that. You might have more than one problem. My first guess would be to check your fuel pump hanger and make sure that the pump is still in the hanger correctly. Sounds like it's possibly...
It looks good to me. I don't know how much volume the Race Mani/VRSF will add but i'm sure the 20G will push enough so you shouldn't have any issues. The VRSF kit looks good too. I've been looking at getting a kit for my 1G as well. +1 on the bigger injectors. You may end up needing the extra...
Is this car worth $2k? 140000 miles, tein suspension w/ evo wheels. cranks but won't start. 125 compression on all cylinders. pretty sure it would be an easy fix.
An alignment tool would be nice but honestly, who wants to wait around to get one? lol. I prefer the method I posted (it does require more work) just for the fact that it is a true alignment of tranny shaft, clutch disc and throw out bearing. The socket and tape does work good too.
put your pressure plate and clutch disc on the flywheel but only tighten the pressure plate down enough to keep the clutch disc from sliding down from its own weight. so the pressure plate won't be very tight. that will allow the clutch disc and trans shaft to line up easier when you install...
I'm not sure where the pt gets its power from but make sure that it's not getting to much juice. I'm not at home right now otherwise I would check mine and tell you.
Could be lower control arm ball joints as well. When they get worn they have play in them and can cause a clicking sound. Turn your steering wheel back and forth and have someone check how much play they have. You may even hear the clicking.
Don't let him try to sell you a car with a "running" engine. It isn't running so bargain with him like it isn't. That's how you get good deals. If they want to prove it runs then they will get it running. Otherwise it's a shell with a core in it.
300lbs in the back seat would be no problem. 300lbs on the back end behind the wheels is a little sketchy though. Try it out. Just take it slow and easy at first.
I've been driving the Talon for 2 weeks now and the TPS has not been causing any problems. Could have been my crap multimeter. I'll check it once I get a better one.
I would go to an auto parts store and get one of those snake deals with the claw at the end like the link below. Don't cram it down there but go little bits at a time and try to grab it. I can't imagine that it went down too far. If your head is of then it might be worth pulling your water pump...
I was told by the previous owner that this was an EVOIII turbo. It looks like it has a 47 stamped on it but I can't tell for sure. I will upload the pic shortly.
It sounds like your positive is grounded out somewhere. Turn the ignition on and use a multimeter to check the voltage between your positive battery terminal and your chassis ground. If it is 0V then you have problems and you will have to find where it is grounded. If it is close to 12V then it...
I had an issue with my TSI that was similar. It would idle at 2k. Fix was putting more coolant in it. The temp sensor was sending the ecu crazy signals because it wasn't in the coolant. Kinda weird. I'm reading up on it so i can figure out why.
I have been reading non stop for the last two weeks. I'll add that to the list. My resistance between pin 1and 4 was 5k ohms. That's right in the middle so should be good correct? Thank you for the input. And I will read up on that.
If you mean testing from the + on the fuse box to the chassis ground then you are incorrect. Voltage equals the difference in potential. Seeing 12V from + to the chassis ground would be a good sign. The best way to test for a short to the chassis would be to test from the chassis to a know good...