The 1g Avid 5 speed motor mount kit works for auto for 3 of the 4 mounts. The trans mount will not work. I modified the stocker, filled it with 70A polyurethane.
Torque converter bolts hitting the rear main housing is what it sounds like. Stock flexplate? Did you Orient it correctly?Spin the motor by hand with the inspection plate off and check for clearance.
I'd literally disregard everything mjtnismo has stated. Sorry, I don't have time to go into particulars but it's full of misinformation and plain incorrect. Listen to 1990TSI, much better info there.Checking crank walk with a feeler gauge? Huh?The proper way would be with a dial indicator...
What year trans is it?I believe this information is accurate, but I'm not a 2g expert.If you have a 2GA you need:Driver 2GA Auto CV Axle
Driver 1G/2G auto/5 speed Intermediate shaft
Passenger 2GA Auto CV AxleIf you have a 2GB you need:Driver 2GB Auto CV Axle
Driver 2GB Auto/5 speed...
The problem is, when this does happen, the OP will not post pictures of the destruction. The shame will likely be very difficult to overcome. This thread will die without resolution.
You need to perform a leak down test.
My guess is a leaking valve.Valve replacement is a precision task and requires specific tools and test equipment to make sure the job is done right.
The proper way is to evacuate all air first (vacuum). The pressure difference will force coolant throughout the coolant passages until the pressure is constant, leaving no trapped air.Many companies sell vacuum coolant fill tools, including Blue Point.
If you cannot afford to repair the issue correctly the first time, you should wait until you do have the monetary means to do so.It is never efficient to perform a task incorrectly, no matter what the constraints are believed to be. I say "believed" to be because often what are thought of as...
I did read your previous posts and they are all incorrect.Cleaning "as much" debris as you can and doing a few oil changes to flush as much debris out is simply terrible advice.The correct way to solve the problem is what the OP is doing.
^^^This mentality is why people build and rebuild and wonder why they keep destroying parts.All oil galleys and parts requiring oil for lubrication need to be thoroughly cleaned and or replaced. The material in the oil pan is likely a fraction of what's hiding in numerous spots throughout...
Upon second look, the input shaft may have some excessive play. Factory spec. is no greater 0.039" of axial play.Also, the correct terms are manual control lever and inhibitor switch when locating neutral.
There are 6 positions but 5 movement points.Starting from Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 2nd, 1st.Neutral is where the hole in the shift selector arm matches up with the hole in the shaft body.The input shaft looks like it has a normal amount of axial movement, especially being dry of any...
Make sure rotation is not being obstructed at any point through the selector sweep. The shaft has a bearing that would have absorbed all of the lateral load from being dropped. As long as the shaft does not have any lateral play and you can achieve each selection point without effort, I'd run it.
Bend the arms back into place. It doesn't take a ton of force to bend those arms, especially if it hit near the very end.Shift into 1st and rotate the input shaft, you should be able to rotate it by hand (not easily but it should rotate) .
I suggest testing the IAT sensor for proper operation. Remove and provide an external heat source. If its a thermistor, the resistance should decrease as the temp increases.
Quick and dirty:The turbo no longer has a restriction that was aiding it's inability to spin freely. The smaller exhaust in a way is acting like a Wastegate.
The point is, we (humans) need to get smarter. All of us. Let's say we didn't have Landspeed spending his time injecting math and physics into these discussions. What would we have then? A thread filled with empirical evidence that provides no value to ascertain what is "true".The next time...
Looking to buy clean interior pieces for a 1g. Need all of the plastics for the rear of the car, trunk carpet, rear seats. Cloth and black/Grey combo only.Let me know what you have! Thanks.1-4two5-327-twonine72- Craig
Alternator is relocated using Jay Racing Kit.Dual Rails, one methanol, one pump gas.The exhaust exits out the fender. Uses a Vband clamp with a muffler attached hidden inside the fender well.
ThThank you for actually applying scientific principles in an argument. Very refreshing indeed.Human beings default to their "senses" when they do not have a better explanation (lack of knowledge). Unfortunately, it has been proven time and time again that human senses are very misleading...
Redline Racing ATF for me, recommended by Kevin @ Kiggly Racing.Trans Fluid - a high film strength fluid is needed to keep the gears alive in these transmissions. It should also have very good high temperature breakdown resistance. I've had good luck with both John Deere Hy-Gard universal...
First, I have to say that I'm disappointed an engineer does not know how to properly use there, their, they're. Huge pet peeve of mine and automatically decreases credibility in my view.Second, opinions work well in philosophical applications where tests cannot be conducted to determine fact...
I'd try using the search function again but this time spelling transmission correctly.Also, www.atdsm.com is a good place for automatic transmission information.
Do the simple things first. Start with an 80/20 mix of water to coolant and add in Redline water wetter. This may solve your problem. If temps are still climbing, add ducting to direct airflow.
Use a non-detergent high zinc oil. Any of the oils Fp recommends in this article should suffice.http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/news/Forced%2520Performance%2520Recommendations%2520for%2520Motor%2520Oil.pdf