14b without hot side housing - $50 + shipping ~1.6mm lateral play ~no axial play=================================== 14b with ported hot side - $40 + shipping ~significant lateral play - probably due for a rebuild ~0.5mm axial play the usual crack at the wastegate

1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 213k MilesPrice includes extra wheels, tires, and spares. $5,500This is an SCCA Rallycross car fully built to the Prepared All Wheel Drive (PA) class. This car has trophied twice at Nationals (2016 & 2019), won the SeDIV Dixie Championship, trophied at multiple...

Turns out the waste gate was not returning fully. I shimmed the waste gate out a bit and now the flapper sits tight! I'm waiting on a fresh set of gaskets to arrive before bolting it all back together to see if that fixes the issue.I know the cracks aren't ideal, but the waste gate flapper...

So, about a year ago, two (!) injectors went out on me and my turbo turned some pretty colors:It seemed to recover fine, no joints loosening or anything. Well, for the last couple of months, the car has been struggling to build boost. I found a boost leak, and had hoped to declare...

I'm trying to find a source to purchase bearing shims for a W5M33 rebuild. I keep seeing 'discontinued', 'sold out' or otherwise unavailable listings. Is there anywhere still selling these?PM if posting would violate the forum sponsor rules.

1g Seats - Black Checkerboard in excellent condition - $50 Local Pick up onlyManual Steering Rack - a 'de-powered' power steering rack - $75 + shipping This was a power steering rack that I removed the seals from and plugged the fluid line holes. I has the faster ratio of the power rack...

Thank you for the advice! I have an LC2 installed and functioning, now. It looks like my measured AFR value is about 2 greater than the estimated value, so I've got some troubleshooting to do. I guess I've got my Sunday planned, now.

Permanent install. Got it.I should add that I am completely done modifying the car. I can not do anything else to it without changing to a different class in my rallycross series, and I do not want to do that.Are there any compatibility issues with ecmlink v2 and newer WB sensors?

I have two goals that I think will require a wideband and some basic tuning. I want to ask for some advice now before I go spend a bunch of money and screw everything up.Goal 1 (short term): I'm pretty sure the car is currently running lean (super hot exhaust, building boost, but no power)...

I have one Fidanza Flywheel friction plate with under 1000 miles. $25

The SCCA RallyCross National Championship was held in Indianola, Iowa, on Oct 1-2. Among the 108 entries, 3 DSM's vied for glory and to prove that you don't need a Subaru badge to win in the dirt. All three were pop-up headlight equipped 1g AWD models and all 3 brought home hardware!After...

Mokkan updated RallyCross 1990 Prepared AWDView updates to this DSM profile...

What should I expect the OE oil pressure gauge to show at highway speeds? I think mine's high, but its been consistent since I got the car running a couple of years ago. It's never caused any problems, but I'd still like to know if something is off. I have a stock engine and 14b turbo with...

Be careful with the timing belt tension; make sure it's done by the book. If it's loose and you put load on it, the belt will hop and you'll be rebuilding the head.It sounds similar to belt rub. Do they look worn, or is there evidence of wear anywhere on the timing belt cover?

I've used Sheridan, they were very quick.

Mokkan submitted a new DSM Profile :RallyCross 1990 Prepared AWDRead more about this vehicle here...

I have nearly finished my build of a 1990 GSX for Prepared AWD. I'd really recommend the FEAL rally spec coil overs. Performance-wise, they've been great. The only issue is that they don't have an integrated mount for the brake lines, so you have to make something up. A stiffer rear sway bar...

I initially thought it was for alignment, but that thing is too loose and obnoxious to install to have been intended as an alignment aide. Gasket protection would fit with the 'fire ring' name a little better. The FP manifold is nearly impossible to torque properly, so it would be nice to have...

The fire ring (the circular metal seal between the turbine inlet and exhaust manifold) turned itself vertical while I was installing the manifold and I did not notice. After running for a few thousand miles, it is now melted, misshapen and useless. At least it didn't manage to get down to the...

My balancer was fine, either some timing cover bolts had come lose or it had warped. I didn't catch it until the belts had torn themselves to pieces rubbing through the guard. After an adventure finding a new guard and buying a few bolts at the hardware store, everything is OK.

Did you ever figure out the cause for this? My pulley looks identical to yours (well, the location anyway, mine is pretty new and rust free). It just ate the timing belt cover, alternator belt and a/c belt.

Yes, we are required to run with the windows up (within an inch of the top). I had them down in grid to cool off since the A/C is struggling right now and I forgot to put them back up and the starter didn't notice.That is a fantastic map. I had not seen that before.

They're similar to the point that you will never notice a difference. Unless you're road racing or doing serious track days, put the one on that makes you feel better and go with it.

There are a number of opportunities to get your DSM out in the dirt this year. If you've never done a rallycross before, they are an absolute blast and have very simple requirements to enter - you don't need a dedicated car or perfect build. Seriously, if your DSM is running, you can enter...

Finally figured out the problem. The oring that sits at the top of the fuel pump was damaged such that it would hold pressure at idle, but not in any other situation. It feels like a whole new car with a proper oring in place!

I've had time to work on this issue and have more information now, but no solution.I replaced the vacuum lines going to the FPR and did not see any change in pressure. I tried another turbo AWD FPR and again, no change.I finally had the opportunity to drive it around (this isn't the...

It's a manual and I am using the factory service manual as my reference for target pressure.I'm running the stock 12lbs of boost. The only modification I have made to the intake/boost system is Dejon piping.I'm going to replace the vacuum lines going to the FPR since they look original. A...

My 1990 AWD has been suffering from cut out at high RPM under full load for a little while and have been trying to find the cause. I've replaced the entire ignition system (every piece tested bad - wow) and the situation has improved considerably. I still get strong cut out as I pull through...

Get a multimeter and check voltages starting at the battery and working in to the dash connectors. Eventually you'll find something without voltage and then you'll have an idea where the problem is. Honestly, it sounds like you're missing a ground connection - check continuity from your ground...

The uniqueness of the 1990 shift mechanisms has been well covered in other threads, but I figured I would share this picture of the end result of using 1991+ cables with a 1990 transmission. The previous owner had the wrong cables in for a long time and never figured it out, apparently...

Those things like to go bad, I just replaced mine two weeks ago...

Cylinders 1 & 4 do have a separate signal from cylinders 2 & 3. The wiring diagram is on pages 67-70 of the electrical manual if you want to check continuity before replacing the CAS. You might want to ohm out the new coil pack, just to be sure its good. Was the car running fine before you...

Turning on the A/C can activate the secondary radiator fan. Check your fuses for the seatbelt/mirrors (in the driver's foot box and in the engine bay) and make sure you reconnected all the ground wires properly when you installed the transmission.Here is the electrical manual: 91+...

If you're planning to drag race only, use the drag radials. If you're planning to do any competition involving turns, use the R6's (A6's for autocross, R6's for road racing). Either one will be a significant improvement in your 1/4 times, though.As a side note, they are absolutely not for...

Awesome! Thanks for the explanation. I can run a jumper over to pin 13 easily enough - and now that I see it, I realize I must have overlooked that pin in the dsmlink ecu pinout. I have a hardcopy 1990 manual coming in the mail now, which I should have done before rebuilding the engine and...

The power transistor can cause cut out at that RPM. Its pretty easy to test if you have an analog voltmeter around (or get one from walmart for $10). See page 181 of the electrical manual for the procedure - you'll need a 1.5v battery as well.

My other car is a '07 Z06 which has a large hatch like dsm's, but it does not have a vent and the hatch is pretty difficult to close. The pressure builds up and you really have to shove the hatch to get it to seal. GM even added a motor to pull the hatch closed in recent years. One of the...

Beam style wrenches are fine. They're less expensive because they're less complex than a click style. I'd be careful at the very low end of its torque range and make sure you're viewing the dial at a direct angle and not from the side. Its like reading the speedo from the passenger seat -...

Where is the fuel pump voltage sensor located on a 1990 GSX? I've checked the factory service manual electrical diagrams and don't see it anywhere.I had 6.1v at the pump, so I ran my own 10 gauge wire from the MPI relay output to the pump input, since the wiring diagram showed nothing...

Are you filling the overflow tank all the way to the top? If so, it will overflow every time. The water needs room to expand as it heats up. If you've put it through a few heat cycles already, make sure the coolant is within the fill lines.If your car is running too hot, your temp gauge...

I would expect it to cost more to repair than to buy a running turbo model.

Woohoo! The car's finally running. I found an idle position sensor in a 1998 Hyundai Accent, adjusted the throttle position sensor, and replaced the power transistor. The car now pulls well through first and slowly works its way through 3rd. Now, I just need a transmission that will let me...

Yes, there are some white circular splotches. I can post a pic after I get home from work today.Also, the coil pack did not ohm out correctly, 1.3 and 2.6 ohms, rather than 0.7-0.86. Also, also, the pins on the power transistor are pretty corroded. I found a good deal on a new transistor and...

Well, I've been messing around with the car and I may have solved the idle issue. The ground connection between the throttle body and intake manifold was not attached (the little useless looking bracket that goes with the bolt through the elbow). I assume that the idle switch was not...

OK, I was looking at the wrong plug :ohdamn:I was able to find the MPI relay output and I rewired it to the pump with 10 gage wire. The pump is now getting a solid 12v! The bad news is that now the check engine light is on, the windows no longer work, the car still doesn't pull power above...

OMG Well, the electrical tape was the generic black sort, not tan or grey, but I can bundle it back up and put it back where it was.Right, the wire is grounded to make the pump run. It just seems like a really weird wire to tap into. There are perfectly good actual ground wires right next...

Was the car running well when you bought it? If not, go ahead and check the ECU - its easy to get to (behind your center console) and they are frequently bad. Then you'll have plenty of time to hunt down a new one while you're rebuilding the engine.

Well, I started following the power supply path for the fuel pump to figure out where my missing 6 volts had gone to when I found this:A previous owner has spliced into the MPI pump relay pin 7 (ECU pin 56) with a wire that disappears into the harness. They have also spliced together...

I was curious about this - it is not a misprint or fat fingering. Is the voltage supposed to be 12v all the time, or does the ECU ramp up voltage to match fuel demand?