We're at autobahn country club doing the chump endurance race and broke a front drive hub. If anyone is within and hour or two we could REALLY use a hand if your willing to part with some parts. Call or text me 412-999-1910 jay

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1. At around 1g cornering, no. No slosh or starvation at all. 2. No again. If you want your engine to last the whole race your going to run under 7k rpm. I'll shift around 6k just because there isn't much time advantage for the fuel and heat revving higher. Never had issues with to much oil in...

Pro built or not basic structural principals have been around longer than 25 years. Rear bars past the suspension is rookies copying rookies.Cool car though

I'm pretty surprised at the basic roll cage design mistakes.

When turning is a consideration you never want mass in front of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels. Put the fuel cell where the right rear passenger seat used to be. It will offset the drivers weight slightly.

Don't pull timing, it will cause higher EGT. Keep it simple and you need virtually nothing over basic maintenance and what ever the track rules say. We run a 1g for 24 hours at a time on street tires, good pads, and a bunch of duct work and a proper alignment. We are likely lighter than you but...

You should get a core from eBay. It's well under your budget. The step up from stock is great but the next step up to ultra exotic or expensive air to air heat exchangers is very slight.

What exactly did the shop do? Your engine is going to need disassemble. Most of the time the head will warp because its aluminum, not the iron block. Coolant leaves the head first as well as the combustion chamber and exhaust ports being present. Get to a good repair or machine shop and you'll...

Efficiency, size, and price are of nonlinear correlation. They're all made of aluminum and mostly bar and plate so they can flow well. Remember you only get air flow when there is a pressure difference. So just because you have 10 square feet of front mount intercooler core visible doesn't mean...

Sounds like a post maf vacuum leak. The car will fire up on base values and then tries to idle down. Its probably going super lean do to unmetered air flow and konking out.

It's pretty obvious what he, myself and almost everyone else that's spent time on a track is saying. You need seat time. The parts you've assembled are only good for a short burst of straight line acceleration. Your brakes fade, engine overheats and your just starting to learning how spring and...

Ok that's just rediculous. Your probably have enough power to annihilate your brakes, cook your engine bay, and destroy any exotic that shows up. I know you want spring rate feedback but your really just need to drive it more. Softer springs make things happen a little slower and make the car...

I think you'll find that anything you do to firm up the suspension will make your track experience better. It's going to take a lot of track time to figure out how to use the awd to your advantage. You can get your car to over rotate with stock suspension by trail braking past corner entry. Be...

If you enjoy reading about suspension then google search wheel frequency. There are an overwhelming amount of calculations you can to to determine what is optimal on paper. The 700# spring would put you around 170 cycles per minute assuming a 1:1 motion ratio. Which you don't have. Also guessing...

I did the same thing to a couple 1g lca sets on our endurance race cars. We run .75" forward offset and 1" length extension. To say the corner entry and mid corner balance changes where dramatic is an understatement. We run 5 degrees of castor and -3 camber with anywhere from 0 to 1/8" toe out...

Hey yins guys. I joined up with this site because of the in depth discussions in the road racing segments and engine assembly knowledge base. We are currently campaigning a 1990 eagle talon tsi in the chump car world series and are getting very close on the right setup combination. Many of you...