I need a head gasket soon so I figure I might as well change all of the gaskets in the top end. Anyone know a good kit to buy? Can I buy a kit of all oem gaskets? Also, I was gonna do the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner pulley etc. do they make a kit for all of that too?

Good news! Did a boost leak test and my blow off valve was leaking pretty bad. I fixed the clamp and now it boosts like a boss. Thanks for all the input!

I've read that thread before but it didn't fully answer my question. I'm more curious about what kind of power cababilities the entire set up has together.Yeah I basically got the pump for free so I figure I might as well install it for now. I think I'll just shoot for 240-260 whp for now...

I just got an evo 8 fuel pump for a steal. I'm also about the buy some 550 injectors for a steal as well. My question is will this support 300whp or at least 275? For tuning I have a tactrix cable so I will be using ecuflash amd evo scan to log. And I, also running a 16g with the stock side...

Thanks man ill let you know what happens. Merry Christmas to you too bro

Yeah I def need to get one soon. I did change the plugs and wires last night and it didn't make a difference. And yeah it's only doing it under boost. If I accelerate real slow and avoid hitting boost she drives pretty much normal. My guess is a bad injector seal because when you look at it...

Will do! I'll make a tester on Thursday when Home Depot is open. Thanks for the input guys.

So I took this kid for a ride in my car earlier. Did a pull to about 7000rpm. Went for another and the car started sputtering and hesitating as soon as boost kick in probably around 4psi and I run 11 daily. We pull the spark plug wires...they're all clean. Check the injectors to see if any are...

Turns out the brand new master cylinder I had just installed had bad seals. Who knew! I found this out after getting stranded 2 and a half hours away from home in the middle of the high way with clutch fluid leaking all over the place! You don't have a dsm until you've been stranded because of it!

The mdp sensor is the one right on top of the intake right? If so then yeah that's what I meant by map sensor. As far as the isc sensor I unplugged it then replugged and I didn't notice any sounds coming from it. Will it be real noticeable? As far as it making a difference with the idle..it was...

I replaced the tps about a month ago and nothing happened. I adjusted the biss screw but no matter what the system compensates plus according to the how to properly adjust the biss screw thread Im doing it wrong without using a scan tool. Also I never did a boost leak test just to clarify...

Nope codes. And I'll check it out and get to you. Does it sound like any kinda of a boost leak to you?So should I unplug that sensor while the car is running? Also can thr fiav be changed?

So I really don't know where else to go from here. The car has had this problem since I bought it. Now, the car has a mind of its own and idles all over the place. But it's always random. Sometimes it idles extremely low like its about to die and other times it idles up at 2500rpm and sometimes...

Damn just imagine how it'd look without the flares in the first pic of thre thread. The wheels would poke out sooo much :O

Correct me if I'm wrong but will 1600cc injectors be enough for 600hp to the crank? I would get even bigger ones. They're not too much more expensive plus its better to be safe.

^^^I'm with him on that one Is there something like these clips that could be found at an autozone? If so what is the technical term?

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but what did you end up doing? Did you go with the ones in your last post? Because 8 for 15 of those isn't bad at all. I'm in need of these but idk if that one specific style is gonna work the replace all of the broken pins on my drivers side skirt

Thanks for the input man. It's weird because when I do the test it will sometimes role forward slightly and other times it won't. Same with the pedal sticking to the floor except that only happened once in about 200 miles so far.I also adjusted the pedal after bleeding and got it like that...

Thanks man. It's supposed to rain for the next couple days and I don't have a garage so you think it's safe to drive it without ruining the tranny? I mean other than that it shifts like butter for the most part and catches about an inch and a half off the ground which feels nice too me. I just...

I agree. I'm going to bleed it again soon along with bleeding the slave

Okay so I finally bled my new stage two clutch and it seems to shift pretty smooth now. It's a little hard to put into first every once and a while but it's alway done that even with the oem. I think that's from my short shifter. But anyways it feels normal. Weird thing is I was parked and...

Did you have to modify the front bumper at all to fit the front mounted turbo?

Anyone?

I see they have the upper and lower hinges but do they come with new pins and bushing? There's so specific description anywhere. Is this where you got yours?

Anyone know a website where I could buy hinge pins and bushings for the drivers side door? Or a part number?

Okay and it should sit towards the inside of the car right? If its leaning the other way then use a washer?And they have both been replaced with brand new ones so there's no leak from there. I believe the mechanic said that they bled it also. Im really hoping its the fork. If this helps...

yeah just changed both the master and slave cylinders with brand new ones. And also the fork came with a new pivot ball so you think a brand new pivot ball is still gonna need to be shimmed? because i could call them and tell them they may need to stick a washer in there unless the new one will...

Ohh okay that looks good. Is it dropped at all?

Thanks a lot guys. The shop said that it needs a performance clutch fork because the stock one can't hold up with a performance stage 2 clutch. Does this make sense? Someone on another thread said they're using the stock fork with a performance clutch and it works great and on another thread...

Ohh play got you. It's at the shop now so I can't look at it at the moment. And it catches about 2cm from the floor. Seems pretty normal. It's just a b*tch to get in gear and def has clutch drag. I read somewhere that with some of the stiffer clutches the clutch fork will need to be upgraded

Is the clevis the rod? If so then yeah it's metal and its maxed out so you cannot see any threads. The reasons why I haven't not done this myself is one, I paid someone else 700 bucks to do it and two, if I do mess with it and that does not fix it and I bring it back to them they can then say I...

I asked them if they were positive its the clutch fork and they said yeah. I recommended that they bleed it as well. Idk if they did it or not. I just feel that I should not have to pay AGAIN since I already paid the first time and yet it's still not working correctly

Okay so lemme give you the full story summed up into a shorter version. So I just paid 700 dollars for a repair shop to install a stage 2 competition clutch. Got it back and it was slipping like crazy plus the pedal was extremely hard to press in and not adjusted properly. Brought it back. They...

Yep calling first thing in the morning!

Thanks a lot for input man. I think I'm just going to have the shop that installed it bleed it just because I spent all of that money on it. Also it's like 20 degrees out and I don't have a garage haha. Just hopefully that's all it needs. I'm just scared I'm going to mess up my syncos (or...

Okay I'll bleed it tomorrow and see if that helps.

Could that be the reason for the clutch drag?

You don't think it could need bleeding?

Alight guys please I need help. I'm so frustrated at this point. Almost makes me wanna put a for sale sign on it. I just put in a competition stage 2 clutch. It was done by a local shop. They put it in and when I got it back it was slipping like crazy. I brought it back. Now they claimed they...

Is there a lot of wheel gap on your car tho? I can't really tell in the pic because it gets so dark in the wheel well. I just ask because gap drives me crazy on my car haha

Was there any fender rolling needed to make these fit? Or did you just put them on and thats it? Whats the tire size your using?

I planned on getting these in 18x9 with a good offset but haven't decided on that yet. I pretty much want as much offset as possible without the need of fender rolling if possible. And I wish I could get those bbs but they're just too damn expensive. Honestly between these or rota grids!

They're xxr's. they're not really the best most expensive wheels out there but there alright for guys on a budget like myself. They also come in black center with polished lip or told center with polished lip I believe. Maybe the good will look cool with the red?Sorry for the typos lol. Meant gold

that was my first comment on them also. honestly, i just like the lip and offset

What do you guys think about these wheels on a 2g gsx? i honestly cant picture anything with lip on a dsm.http://i.imgur.com/gDy6Ot5.jpg

my drivers side door sags a lot and I noticed on another thread about this problem everyone was saying to adjust the hinge or replace the hinge pins and bushings. Well..how do you do both of those? I couldn't find a write about it.

I was thinking that too but the paint on the bumper seems to be in good condition. No cracking just small chips from rocks. I think it may just be someone taking off the bumper and not putting it on right or breaking a clip

When you look at my car head on you can notice underneath the drivers side headlight there's about an inch of space between the bumper and light when the other side is completely flush. Also, the fog lights don't line up with their holes perfectly either. Any idea if its a bumper clip and maybe...

Yep. Exactly. Where'd you get the spark plug cover that says mitsubishi? I'm currently missing one

Damn bro sounds like things weren't going so smooth. Hopefully all is well. Not surprised I mean it IS a dsm haha