okay im not trying to tune my first dsm with boost leaks all over
and bunch of mods with nothing to tune.
im running 550s, 14b, greddy bov just installed so i can hold more boost
gm 3" maf, maf-t and tmo chip. i turned the boost up after installing my new
bov, the rfl i had leaked bad...
Okay I have read, and don't really know where to go from here.
I just got new tires, I just installed new struts. Just installed
Both front wheel bearings and ball joints. Than today just
Got an alignment. Still after that my car shakes pretty bad.
Mainly on the highway, but also on roads...
okay im not getting any help lately...
i plugged my fan into my front o2 sensor plug by mistake last week, since
than my car idles at 10.5 AFR. And now i did a BLT and hear bubbling, im more worried about my idle problem any help?things ive done already:Check wires for shortsCheck...
like test the o2?i replaced my old one with a BRAND NEW one and still didnt run better
so i used one from a spare o2 housing that i know works and yet again
didnt run right...please guys i need this fixed like last week...lol
okay guys. i have a 6-bolt swap + 7-bolt head just done. no random misfiring. all boost leaks just fixed. new exhaust gaskets. brand new o2 sensor. i plugged im my passenger side fan into my front o2 sensor plug by mistake the other day and it made a click noise somewhere and RIGHT after that...
okay im installing my new skunk2 coilovers on dropzone shocks,
i just got both rear ones on. now i went to finish the front and loosened
the top bolts. took the tires off on to the lower strut brace bolts. got a hammer
hit it a few times to break any corrosion loose, threw the socket on...
I have a 95 gst. Just finished my 6-bolt swap with 7-bolt head. New plugs
And wires. Compression is good. But when I take off it hesitates a little bit
And accelerates like a snail. Builds boots just goes no where like it should.
And I hooked up my scanner and it says load:20 at idle...
well if i just take the lines off coolant will just spill out of the turbo correct?and now that i caped off the two turbo coolant lines, and the turbo coolant feed line
got too much pressure in the coolant system and my car got toooo hot.right under my MBC you can see i capped off the...
heres the line that has no where to go with the new 6-bolt block and needs somewhere to go or to be deletedheres where the line went on the old 7-bolt blockHOW DO I DELETE THEM?? lol im stumped
Okay. Just finished my 6-bolt swap, and it runs!!(:
But on the 7-bolt block has a nipple on the block for the middle
Coolent line on the turbo, but the six bolt block doesn't...so there
Is no place for it. How do I delete it or where else can I put it?
Yes my last motor crankwalked.
valves are not seating all the way to losing all compression. i took the cams off while the head was off and from under the valves you could stick a quarter in the gap on a few.im going to go get a new cylinder head right now.
what steps do i take to install...
Set everything to tdc and pulled the head quick glance
Looks like valves aren't seated proper and moisture on the
Head gasket. Going to bed will update you guys in the am.
Please come back tomorrow to see what's upThe one I bought from extreme psi
OEM Composite Head Gasket : Mitsubishi...
Head is off my 7-bolt that got crankwalk, so bought my friends 6-bolt block
With 2g pistons and 1g big rods. It was out of his perfect running car. But
The head is from my gst. Timing is set 100% positive
Okay just finished 6-bolt swap in my 1995 GS-T. 7-bolt head, 6-bolt block.
everything checked out, cas wired right, with new plugs and wires. timing set perfect. NO START! Got fuel and spark no codes thrown. So did a compression test and cylinder closest to the timing belt held 130psi, than...
hi, i am buying a 97 eclipse gst. it has a 7bolt and auto trans. im buying it to swap it into my 95 gst which has a 5 speed. im keeping the 5 speed just swapping the motor into my 95. never swapped a motor myself. i just bought a 8 ton cherry picker. think i can do it? what is the hardest part...
okay my crank moves in and out, my trigger plate bent and broke my crankshaft position sensor. i tried bending it back and replaced sensor and boom, still knocking against it and broke the sensor. so im jumping to conclusion and want to skip the bullshit and fix it all at once. will this get rid...
well my 7 bolt needs new thrust bearings. think im just going to go with this stuff, my current shopping cart on extreme psi. please tell me this stuff will rid of my crankwalk??!1:ACL RACE "TRI-METAL" MAIN BEARING SET: MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 1992-1997 7-BOLT #19651
2:ACL Aluglide Main Bearing...
as in rebuild kit i mean timing rebuild kit, my motor was just done, but got crankwalk.i was sure it was crankwalk cause my trigger plate bent and broke 2 crankshaft position sensors. pretty sure i can move it in and out. with alot of force though
For the same price overall could I just get tri-metals bearings, trigger plate and timing belt installed?just remember, the 6bolt i can buy tomorrow comes with the transfer case flywheel and transmission all for $400! any 6 bolt turbo with all that will probably cost alot more...another...
im not doing it myself because of the fact i dont have a cherry picker.where do i get oil squirters that will work in the 6bolt motor?yes, i am using my 2g trans on a 6bolt n/a motor and installing my turbo, injectors so in to the n/a 6bolt and installing in my 1995 gst.
okay, im picking up a n/a 6 bolt motor and trans 5 speed. im swapping it into my 2g that got crankwalk.
1: Can i just install my 6bolt to my 2g trans? both from 5 speed.2: the 6 bolt is n/a and i plan on using my 20g, injectors, ect.. will it bolt right on and work with a 1g n/a ecu or do...
yeah i think my trigger plate needs to be replaces its still clickingand i dont have any of the proper timing tools to take off my timing beltits not knocking on the sensor now, its knocking against something else....no idea what to do?
uh-ohhhwe may have a problemthe trigger plate looks almost perfectly straight, so i put the sensor on tighened it down and the trigger plate is under the sensor and fits there perfect
so i straightened it out. put the sensor back on car still wont start. does the sensor just bolt right on and your good or do you have to line it up with the trigger plate or something
what im trying to get at is...lol the trigger plate didnt just bend itself. haha so what if i do replace it and ten minutes later it happens again...would a bolt rolling around with my timing belt cause this? while this happened my timing belt frayed a little bit. or is something else the cause?