So i switched back to the stock intake mani due to it being for a 1g, that was a sad time, ive got the spark tech COP kit ordered and should be here to install with in a week or so. Everything is coming together really nicely, i installed the engine and tranny yester after i got my last things...
Thanks guys. Its coming along, slowly but surely. And yes i was def going to get a new tranny cooler since the other lince are def old and need to be re routed since there right in front on the engine bay. Heres some more updates on it so far. I picked up a magnus sheetmetal SMIM and got my fic...
Havent updated this for a while now. But i havent made awhole lot of progress but i have done some things. Heres the latest pics of my talon and build.This is the cas harness i built for my 1g cas to 96 talon harness
I haven't posted for a few days atleast and have a few updates. I ordered in a set of ferrea copper exhaust guides and ferrea bonze intake guides. a couple weeks ago I sent in the head to a local cylinder head shop to get it milled, a valve job done, cleaned (hot tanked), even tho they cant hot...
I havent posted in a few day. But lately ive been doin a few little things things with the taling build. Found a new "new to me" hatch to replace the primered 1 that i had before. The old 1 had rust underneath. And got in my new bc cams, bc dual springs and Ti retainers, bc valve stem seals...
Should know that the bc cams are revised now and i also got a sponsorship to test them out, write a reweiw and get an updated dyno for BC. the dual springs look awesomeAlso should know i got another nice package today. Thanks to mapsAnd put on a new to me hatch. The 1 i had wasnt kicking it...
Over last weekend i got around to having some time to mess with my talon. I went ahead and got a new crank trigger plate since mine was pretty wallowed out in the center and it was farely cheap. I got the front umper and headlights all taken out and ready for a FMIC when i get one andalso...
I like the more of the faster beat country. Shes country, boys aound here, the new blake shelton is reall good. So many songs that are good that they never will play on the radio.
Always remove the balance shafts like said before. To much to wprry about as it is. But if you remove them. Make sure to port your OFH as well. Theres awesome write ups on here about how to do both.You can get all your stuff for the BSE thru the dealer and it doesnt cost much at all.
IMO i wouldmt go with the BC 272s. They are more like 260s or so. They are cheaper for a reason. Go woth a good cam. Ilike kelford 272s and they are very street tame as well. Good drivability and last.
yes thank you. I noticed after I put the water pump on. when I was setting the water pump the gasket sealer was drying rather fast so I was in a rush to put the water pump on and just slapped the alt bracket onive also had to take everything apart due to a broken main bolt as well. so these...
I havent been on here for awhile to give any updates. I dont have to much to update on since work has been getting pretty hectic but i still work on my engine when i get a chance. Ill post a couple new pics later on tonight when i get off work and get home.
your in the right place. its the only place really you are able to post since you still a newbe. im not much of a tranny person but the best I could tell you is to try the MFI. check the local auto stores around you. dealership if you have to. and im pretty sure you can find something in the DSM...
that may be rather hard to beable to tell for sure. engine out of the car, no tranny connected and engine as a short block, yes it may move. but as it sits it may not, or may be to small to beable to tell. it can move a bit and not be considered "crankwalk".
the guy is out of his mind if hes serious on his asking price. it seems clean. all stock is the best way you could go. but ask for any and all receipts for any of his work that's been done. if hes done it himself then he should still have the parts store receipts atleast. but all and all I...
today I finally after waiting awhile because of my DD breaking down, was able to put on my main girdle and get it torqued down. and yes I did the torque to 60 in 3 steps, (20, 40, 60) then loosen then repeat x5. wasn't for sure if the ARP mains studs are torque to yield so I did it anyways...
got these arp rod bolts from Matt. thanks buddy.
didn't get much of a chance to do anything to the engine at all this weekend. my DD timing belt broke last Wednesday and just got it fixed Friday night with black97spyder.
I got my ARP main studs in yesterday. Ill be working on getting more together this weekend. A good buddy of mine is bringing over some ARP rod bolts for me that he doesnt need and then well be putting most of the bottom end together. Will have pics when we get her closer.
I would see how deep the rust is first. And heck to see it and of the paint if bubbled becuase thats were rust might be as well. To see how bad the rust is , just take a wire brush for a drill and just do a small part to save your time. If its to bad and you question yourself if itll be ok. Then...
If everything was clean as well as you say then my bet is the crank prob needed polished before assembling or something was wrong with the crank from the start.
If they rotated around the piston while the engine runs then whats the hype about the rings setting grooves in the block? Wouldnt they fallow those grooves that are set all the time?
Yea i saw alot of different ways on google. Just wasnt sure the best way for my engine. I got a sheet that said the way to clock them but no picture so i didnt really understand it. Lmao i work better with pictures and bright colors.