Just keep reading. I have close to 7k under the Hood and I'm close to 190hp at the crank not even to the wheels. 2gnt.com has great info on our cars too

Whoa! If its a stock motor you do not need arp head bolts unless you plan on building the motor. You need to check if the head bolts have streached or not. If not they can be reused on a stock build. And a mls cometic head gasket requires the block and head to be surfaced to have a good finish...

All this trouble and you haven't bought an ecu still? Buy a ecu for $40 from miller import parts and see what happens. Worth a shot after this long.

Don't see that pic try it again. And thats awesome about you and your son. I have a 5 month old daughter and im hoping she loves cars as much as i do. If you have any questions about aftermarket parts or upgrades with the motor feel free to pm me. I would be glad to help answer anything your not...

What are you? retarded?

Even tho it is all f&f someone did put some time into it. What is your goal with this car? Do you want to drive it daily? weekend cruiser? drag? If you don't care about horse power then a stock rebuild will do. If you want horse power on a budget buy a 4g63 and sell it. I built a 420a motor and...

I hate replying with things I'm not to sure about so sorry if anything I say is wrong but just trying to put other ideas out there. Did you just copy your files over to sd? Or did you go through them all over again with adjustments? I read some where that you cant put your previous settings...

Everyone wants more power in the long run. I bought eagle rods for $320 and je pistons with plasma chromolly rings for $450. Also when I got my motor assembled it cost me $1000 but I had it balanced and the head ported. You can always add cams or swap on a race head later down the road. I would...

You can either drill a hole or run it through the steering column boot and it will be good. Just make sure it wont bind on anything

I read that when you do a 6 bolt swap you have to turn the cas 180 degrees from a 7 bolt. Some people don't do this and get no start.

The inside diameter is 2 1/2 inch just make sure you get a n/a downpipe. I got an obx downpipe and they sent me a turbo one which the flange is 45 degrees off and had to use exhaust clamps to bolt it up.

If you do what Isabelledc5 is talking about then you have to get the block and head resurfaced which you don't want to if you don't have to. Take your head off and post up some pictures. You will want someone to tell you if you need the block surfaced or just the head. If its just the head then...

SEM paint for plastic is one of the best out there it last a long time. My body is icar certified and swears by it.For the parts you want black I would just paint and buy some black seats from miller import parts. He has black consoles and other things if you don't want to paint them.

call miller import parts he is a vendor on here he just got in about 5 gst/gsx/tsi's. He has them in different colors im sure 8284299194

I just went down this same road of choosing a turbo for 400hp. I ended up going with a s20g (for $325) but there are so many options. If money is an issue holset (hx35/hx40/h1c) will be cheaper but if its not a gt3071r or similar would be awesome for what you want. Like dropthatclutch was saying...

I have this problem too only with a cold start also. I have an unorthodox pulley and high compression motor. When i shift into second on a hard pull it squeals and i haven't been able to figure it out.

"Most" people run ngk's 6 or 7's. I run ngk iridium plugs.

Sorry about that i meant to say link.

With a 20g you could run 800-1000cc injectors using MS and get 350hp easy with a good tune.

how many miles are on your motor? You need to do preventative maintenance first before you upgrade.

You would probably get better advice from a different forum that is about 2000-2005 3g's. This is all 1g and 2g cars on here I know nothing about the 3g's besides its a 6 cylinder lol. But you missed something for sure, I would go back to step one and start over. Something isn't plugged in right...

I have the same issue. It happens with some after market clutches and the TOB they give you. The oem TOB has a softer inside center so it doesn't rattle around on the shaft. Mine has been like this for a year, it almost goes away when everything is warmed up tho.

Thats funny i was just wondering the other day if cxracing was good or not! I know their turbos are no good but the intercooler/piping kind of looked decent. But lots of things look good in a picture until you have it in front of you.

Like said previously just stack up your parts! I had parts sitting around for a year and a half before I even tried building my motor. I bought a whole other motor to build so I could still drive my car and swapped down the road.

Its says right below your avatar you have 11 tech post. And "most" people run kelford, bc, delta 272's but you need upgraded valve train to run them efficiently.

Miller import parts 828 429 9194 guys name is steve, call or text him. He doesnt update his website that often so calling or text is way faster and he probably has it. He has had anything i'v needed in the past.

I would look at the sensor wire tail that the headlight plugs into on both sides. Then work your way back to see if any wires are burnt.

The hx40 is better then the h1c IMO and will diffenetly get you in the 12's if everything is built around it. If you did your suspension right and had a good tune you could get lower then 12's with a hx40.

Its all about the lanch and not missing gears when your evenly matched. 150lbs wont make that much of a difference or just take your hood and seats out lol.

You can make spray paint look good if you lightly scuff the paint and do a few coats of clear. Tape off your sensor ends and little things like that to make it look cleaner.

Thats sweet man I heard lots of bad things about the obx lsd. I do believe in some of there parts tho, how much did it cost for that? Ed peters? new obx lsd?

Yup i have drilled holes in my fender well before to get those same bolts out. It makes the mount alot easier to take off. That sucks the auto part store should of known you need a chrysler puller. Like slo2gen said make sure those holes on the cam shafts are pointing straight up you will notice...

Very true on that. I have always had a hard time getting the right angle with an easy out on a bolt in the engine bay. I usually go to the machine shop and let them hassle with it.

There is also alot of threads on this topic. It always helps to google search but under dsmtuners: in the search bar. It is a little hard to find excatly what your looking for on here so i find it easier with google.

^That is very good to know!

There are other front bumpers you can go with tho. google some bodykits

Sounds like clutch adjustments could make it better but a stage 4 clutch is pretty stiff.

Well technically your not suppose to run gear oil in our trannys since mitsubishi recommends atf even in a 5speed. I run gear oil tho which I havnt had any issues with in the past 4 years.

That would bug me way to much I wouldnt even be able to drive the car the way I wanted to. If your motor is solid I wouldnt chance it to much. But this is just my opinion.

Personally i wouldnt use the stock clutch with a moddified motor. i have a 10.5 comp that will be turbo'd soon, i went with spec stage 2 with the n/a and regret it. im hoping it will hold up when i go over 300hp. Unorthadox pulley makes the car really responsive compared to the heavy stock...

Wouldnt it be easier to pull the head and work on the seized studs on a bench to get the manifold off?

As long as you dont beat on it. Running rich wont hurt as long as its not extremly rich its alright. I think the auto injectors are 390cc. You can also find a good used ecu for a decent price through millerimportparts.com call or text 8284299194

If you have maintaned the car and have good compression I would do the bearing.

Yeah what? Its hard to help when you type like that.

Thats a beautiful power curve man how many psi were you at to get 600+?

If your battery or alternator is weak then you will not get the proper voltage to the sensors which will give you false readings. Why ask why? You should get a chilton and read up or something.

If 10 rockers poped off its not worth a compression test in my eyes. I would pull the head off. You can unbolt everything you can then try to heat up the seized bolts with a small torch.

Yup autometer is defintely the best if you can afford them.

Im pretty sure you can go to oreilly's or autozone and they can tell you if your alternator is bad with hooking up a scan tool. Or check the voltage with the car running. If you get 13.5v take the power wire off and it should idle easily for a little bit if it dies quick your alternator is weak.

Thats a rip off! I wish i could hook you up with my painter. I just got my whole car painted and body work for $2600. I would find a different panel and take yours off to see what you can clean up/fix. Then get it fixed by a shop, that would take alot of the cost out.