Since it's not pressurized, you'll be fine as long as it doesn't leak. You're much better off with the short, straighter drain than that long, curvy setup.You could just buy the fittings and hose and make your own.

Shit, I totally forgot to mention installing a set of 550cc injectors. It won't cause any issues. I have one on my car and it runs fantastic. I'm sure it runs a little rich since I don't have a tuning method yet but too rich is better than too lean.

If you want to get rid of the 1g MAF (I don't blame you), get a 2g MAF, a filter, make an adapter or cut your harness and wire on a 2G plug.

Bingo. I throw my floor back under the ball joint to put pressure on it. The nuts for balljoints are typically a nylock nut which you can't spin off by hand.

Sorry for the late reply. My wife and I had a baby August 2 so we've been pretty busy. BTW, using PB Blaster in the lock isn't a great idea. It's going to collect dirt/dust that way. You want a bottle of spray graphite (PB Blaster makes one) instead.The 3si wiki is pretty thorough. I do know...

That is f***ing scary.

Uhh... rattle can is just another term for spray paint. Why would you assume he's automatically painting his car flat black?Also, he's only spraying on primer. I believe he's going to be doing the cheap roll-on paint job.

It's fine and very common.

What do you mean it doesn't work? If the key goes in, but doesn't turn, your cylinders might just be seized. When I bought my car, I couldn't lock/unlock the driver's door or hatch. I doubted that the door/hatch or lock cylinders were swapped so I pulled them out of the car. The key worked fine...

I'm curious as well. I have to invest in a tank to rail kit because the previous owner f***ed up the fitting/fuel line at the filter on my car. I wish I could just slap another stock one in.

Uhh, just so you're aware, you can get a brand new 2g oil return from JNZ for $14. I don't know why you're going this hack route. I can understand why you're not going with -10 or -12 braided -- it's a much costlier investment. Hell, if you're in a rush, the dealer can probably get one for you...

Poor adjustment of the clutch shouldn't cause any noises while the clutch is engaged. You would be hearing issues while disengaging the clutch because it would be over-adjusted and the pressure plate fingers would touch.It sure sounds like an issue with the trans if the noise goes away when...

I'm assuming he means pushrod instead of piston.

The point of adding oil during a compression test is to help temporarily seal the rings. If you have a cylinder that's lower than the others, you add oil, and the test comes back much higher, the issue is probably rings. However, the oil alone will also make your compression test higher...

I haven't done it on a 2g but it's not terribly different from a 1g. The major difference is you have three mounts that attach to the trans instead of one. You shouldn't need to lower the motor.Jafro has a fantastic series of videos that goes through a clutch swap on a 2g:

I think you would be wasting your time. It only takes me two hours to pull a trans. Putting it back in takes a bit longer but it could be done in a day. A weekend is more than generous.His issue has nothing to do with AWD or FWD. He's using a 1g motor in a 2g car.

According to JNZ, the starter plate is matched to the trans.I'm pretty sure the plate is bolted on so slipping the old one off and the new one on sounds impossible.I suppose you could just cut off the corner and use it as a spacer but I wouldn't trust it. The part is $18. If it were my car...

My first choice would be to get the appropriate plate in there so that things work properly...

Well, don't worry about it for now. Enjoy what you have, keep it running, and learn everything you can. My first car was $500 '90 Cavalier and I loved it.

You should ask for the full cost (parts + estimated labor). Don't forget paint for the hood and bumper. Always ask for more than you're expecting to get because they'll probably try to work the price down anyway. You can settle for less.

Honestly, it's just not worth it. This is (assuming since you're 16) your first car. Treat it well and it will treat you well. Don't waste money on making gutless car slightly faster. Keep this thing reliable so you can use it as a DD. When you have the money, buy a turbo model for your fun car...

At 16, I would spend your time and money in maintenance and trying not to crash the car into anything.

That's a lot of stuff for a first post...

I feel like the guy at least deserved a call from the tow company before they just dragged it by the FMIC onto the rollback. If he had given the 'okay', then fine, but this $100-200 repair turned into a whole lot more.

I actually thought a lot of tow companies take pictures for reasons specifically like this. People try to sucker them into paying for damages that they didn't actually cause so they take pictures before they tow the car.This tow shop may not do that or, in this case, they may discard the...

Damn. It sucks you weren't there because it's a lot harder to prove. Having a "before" picture is good but not definitive. That's the big issue. If there are cameras at the shop, you should have all the evidence that you need. Without that, it's simply "he-said-she-said".

It will probably help that you have a picture of the car on the side of the highway and it shows the intercooler wasn't damaged. If necessary, you can pull the EXIF data on the image to prove when and where the picture was taken.And who did you talk to from the tow shop? You need to sit down...

An M10x1.25 tap is what, like $10? Pretty cheap if you don't have a full set and, if it doesn't work, you now own a M10x1.25 tap.

I would try to tap the threads first. Might be able to just clean them up and put the bolt in. If the tap is long enough, you won't even have to remove the turbo from the manifold before tapping it.

It's not just a matter of holding the turbo to the manifold. The bolts are also there to seal the two parts together so you don't have an exhaust leak.How bad are the threads? You might be able to get by with just running a tap through them.

Aren't recalls for the life of a vehicle as long as it hasn't been redeemed yet?

The car has a turbo on it?

Not necessarily. Your other gears have syncros which help you get into gear. I don't believe reverse has one.And FYI, Jack's Transmissions only recommends MT-90 or OEM fluid and specifically mentions to avoid Syncromesh. Not to say that's your issue but just throwing it out there.

luv2rallye is right. There's no real way to be sure until you get the trans onto the motor and check where the fork sits. If all of your drivetrain components were brand new, I'd say your chances of needing to shim would be slim to none. If the clutch is pretty new, I think you'll be fine.

If the master isn't leaking and is an OEM unit, I wouldn't touch it.I assumed you installed an extended slave rod (longer than OEM). If what you installed is about the same length as OEM, that shouldn't be the issue (and would only help).What trans fluid are you using? The fluid will be...

First of all, your clutch engagement point changed because you had a new clutch put in. When you have new clutch components installed, you have to adjust the clutch which involves turning the rod on the master cylinder in or out depending on what adjustment you need.Second, the longer slave...

I can't recommend JNZ Tuning enough. Great prices, fast shipping, and their customer service is top notch.

Bingo. That's my issue with the attitude. Bashing someone because they drive a Honda is no better than a Honda driver bashing someone because they don't drive a Honda. If you're going to talk shit on Hondas, then start talking shit on people with N/A 420a cars because they're no better. Gutless...

You brought up a 2-year old thread to shit talk Hondas. Just seems a little silly.

If you stick with the stock flywheel (I wouldn't if it has 146k on it), make sure you get it resurfaced with the proper step height. If you pull it out and it looks fine (no cracks), you'll probably be fine with just having it resurfaced properly. Just make sure it's resurfaced to the correct...

Okay.

Why would you just throw a higher pressure cap on it? The cooling system was designed for a specific pressure. You shouldn't just change things like that because you have some other issue.

So you don't have any oil problems now?

I wouldn't assume it's your cap unless you pull the cap off and find oil all over the valve cover where the cap sits. If you don't know how old the valve cover gasket is, I would start by replacing that. It could be the gaskets around the spark plug wells. It's not very expensive and doesn't...

I would love to see how you get a socket on that fitting.

Sounds like a broken clutch fork.

It was sarcasm. ;)

That's a good point. There aren't any threads on the seal housing so it could have just been pulled off. Probably didn't want to ruin the RTV job though.

Of course it does. That's not even an opinion. That's a 100% fact.

No. This thread is about depowering a p/s rack. That's what I did to mine. It's almost impossible to find a manual rack and the previous owner of my car is a dipshit and decided power steering is for pussies.