Where you located at I live up in Oregon?

Looking great....I cant wait to watch it in may!!

Headed up to Portland this coming weekend...anyone interested in a greddy profec ebc...was installed but pulled right back out. Its the new version was 470 new through extreme..selling for 320.

Have any 2g highrise spoiler?

If we get the white car together by then hopefully he can get that up there too. Should have the fwd ready by then and we will see you up there. I have too order another core now too to go with pipes I have left..LOL

Gratz on the Black...nice intercooler too looks good on there...you gonna try to be at IFO in may?

Might have ruined the ground wiring for your turn signals.

For a scan tool just turn it to the on position but don't start it.

Is it a ticking sound or actual knocking sound?

Yeah it did the exact same thing and was getting frustrated until I tried to flex the cable and saw it was really stiff and corrosion dust came out of the cable. Kept cutting on it and it was like atleast 10" down or more.

Check the battery cables too...I bought a car that had corrosion in the cable about 10" down the cable and it was hard as a rock. It didn't have flex at all, after I replaced the whole cable that issue went away for me.

Did you try and replace the thermostat? Could be stuck and not opening possibly.

I think the c16 don't have the same stuff in it as the q16?Pretty sure urban running the c16 wouldn't have the same effect on the injectors to cause the premature failure of the seal.

I was curious about running race gas through those too...I bought them for new build too but not in yet and after I bought them I saw that too. I was worried about running race gas too. How long you been running those with race gas urban?

No it wont.

I had a taillight doing that and once I found out it was the seal leaking I just heated it up with heat gun while applying pressure and was able to get it to seal back up. It didn't leak for over a year then sold the car out of town so not sure how long it held up.

Well atleast if you rebuild the one in there you know you have a fresh bottom end. If you put the used one in you could end up with another wore out bottom end in couple k miles. I vote if you are able rebuild it then you know what you have, that's what I would do.

Thanks for all the input guys pretty sure found new shop to go to close by. And a plus...got to meet another close true dsmer. Thx revolution for all the help and info, ###### leaning towards aluminum again! :-)

Yes coolant light, sorry was responding to two different posts. That's why its a dummy light for dummies like me not paying enough attention....lol

You could also opt for aluminum rods.. Less rotating mass. I'm actually going to go with aluminum rods and wiseco hd for my 7 bolt over the winter too.

Pretty sure check engine light.

Did you have the throttle body off? Mabye need to reset tps and biss screw?

Go for forged...cheaper to spend alittle extra now then more to put them in later.

Yeah I agree I was only doing maybe 10-15 mph when I had a belt snap many years ago and it trashed the valves, but I got lucky with the pistons and only put couple marks on em.

91 to 94 will work. 95 and newer is different. you could use a 1990 but your tach might not work and have to swap couple wires.

Yeah +1 on the biss and tps...check for proper adjustment I just had same issue.

Yes I have text revolution as he lives couple hrs away. Sounds good but sure hes busy for the holiday and have to get the motor out and ready to go anyways. And as far as basic machine work at shops you have been lucky to not have a bad experience. I personally had a 2000 dollar set of brodix...

Just had that issue and mine was biss and tps out of adjustment.

Block bored and prepped then rotating assembly balanced. I know there is lots of shops but would like one with 4g63 experience and does quality work.

I emailed them to see about having machine work done but didn't get a response.

Anyone?

Any recommendations for a machine shop in Oregon that is experienced with 4g63 motors?

Must be fry ecu time buddies car just did the same thing yesterday. Off to ecm tuning it goes.

Seems like a pretty good deal plus it says he would wiggle alittle more on the 4k price too.

Mabye a fphta68 would be good choice too.

Big difference in spool times...kinda leans me more towards 3586 for what I want for now.. thx for the info. Nice car and good luck with the winter build.

In a 2.0 what kind of spool time are you looking at with the 3586 compared to the 3794...I've been kinda looking at both those exact same turbos too for my newly acquired gsx. Been waiting to figure out which turbo to get to base my build around.

Have a like new but was installed new version greddy profec for sale.

I bought a 1g awd with power steering rack filled with grease, and it doesn't feel that bad at all compared to buddies with just having the power steering lines looped back to the rack.

Val Vr1 20w50 for me

Might of knocked car out of alignment....

Did you check knock sensor too? Had a 1g had same problem and it was a knock sensor. Might not be it but something to check.

Fwd and newly acquired Gsx:hellyeah:

I have tried searching for this issue with nothing found so...my question is im running a 3" gm maf and tuning with ecu flash, do I need to adjust my maf size or scaling table using it in blow thru setup?

Thank you I thought it was .330 but just wanted someone to confirm.

Bought some new fic 1050 but not sure what they are saying for latency to add for deadtime. Anyone using these injectors to give me a starting point?

I had to do the same thing and switch back to normal maps, I thought they were the same but nope so back to figuring out a tune. Thx for the help

So I been driving the car with stock ceddy mod maps and running normal, I got the big maps version but when I flashed it to ecu I am running like full rich on the wide band when iding, and go lean when it starts to hit boost. Am I supposed to switch something in the bits? Any insight would help...

Thank you for the help. Im still learning on how to really look at the logs in map tracer. Some of what I read was people using excel for the spread sheet I thought might easy for newbie like me to view them.Also when I load one of my logs on map tracer to view it and check the 1bit load box...

When trying to view logs with evo scan do I use excel to view them, and do you use one of excels spread sheets or custom one? Also in ecu flash do I raise fuel cut by using bigger ms number?