^^ For that power level, you are going to want to at least have forged pistons if not forged rods too.Yes, that is a good start. Thanks.

While we have this thread going trying to help this guy out, is there anyone that can post up a link on what you have to do to put a 63 head on a 64 block? I have been searching for info myself, but I can't really find anything more than there is some oil drains you have to block off...

I know all that. What I was getting at was more that he cannot use the pistons that are in the motor now (unless flycutting valve reliefs would work). Dependent on his power goals, idk that running the stock DOHC 2.4 pistons would be a good idea. I'm sure they can handle a little boost, but...

Since he is using a SOHC block, won't the pistons need changed anyways (valve reliefs)? Or could he just fly cut the pistons that are in there and use them with lower boost? It's just a thought. Good luck OP with your project, I am doing something similar with a 4g64 for my rx7.

My testament for seafoam. I had a 91 blazer that I changed the intake manifold on. The lifter valley was pretty crusty so I scraped some of the crud off (found out in short order that it was a bad idea) and the crud ended up plugging up my oil pickup. I put a can of seafoam in the oil and let...

First time I have seen this thread. I am mjrsplat's brother and I am from the Columbus area. I don't have a dsm, however I do have a rx-7 that will be getting a dsm transplant. I'd be down to meet people in the dsm community. For anyone close to columbus (and I believe it may have been...

That's what I was getting at. dsmgst1996's original thought was flawed, but I understand what he was thinking.

Don't forget the flexplate and torque converter along with everything else already mentioned.

Agreed. Let the springs sit on a shelf at home or something until you have the cams too and only do one install.

I understand what he meant, the thought was that if the turbo spools but the engine sees no boost then you will run rich, kind of like if you blew off an IC pipe.

If you give it gas in neutral when you let the clutch out, does it still stall?

As long as your positive they are 7 bolt rods, then it should be no problem to do it with the head in place.

When it starves the pump completely it doesn't take long to mess things up, but I would think it would have make a knocking noise first. When I helped my brother rebuild a motor for his 90 cutlass the motor had been sitting for like 5 years with no oil. We made the newb mistake of not...

Sounds like it locked up, though I'm not sure why it lost all of the oil if you only changed it a couple hundred miles ago. Even with a locked motor, it can still be rebuilt, but it is probably going to need a considerable ammount of machine work.

Are your battery terminals tight? I've had loose terminals cause this exact symptom before.

Hi erikI know the meet your talking about, they are usually out there every friday and saturday during the summer. Me and my brother are usually up there about every week.

If you have a snake camera (I don't remember what they are called, but you can put them through spark plug holes) you can get a good look at the pistons and see if they look pretty new, or you could just ask him to remove the head (probably easier) so you can see what it looks like inside...

Take a tape measure, measure the inside diameter of the piping on the cat, go to auto parts store and get a pipe with the od matching the id of the cat, hammer said pipe into cat (make sure you have the proper length too). make sure pipe is clear of any blockage, then bolt it back on the car...

I was not actually planning on running it to 8k, I was just using that for reference because thats what I have heard. I was just wondering what a safe redline would be. I'm fine with 7500 or even 7k.

Not to thread jack, but I'm just curious what a 4g64 can rev to. I plan to have forged pistons, more than likely stock valves with upgraded springs and 272 cams, and ###### start out with either a 16g or a hx35. I'm just curious because it was a truck motor (even though I hear the crank and...

If you take the radiator cap off (when cold) is your coolant low? If there is no coolant flow in the heater core then you will have no heat. Also with there being coolant on the trans, doesn't one of the radiator hoses run to the back of the block (above the trans)? If so I would check for...

So your saying its safe to run a car in gear on only jacks with no jack stands? :confused: I guess when the car falls off when its running in gear that its just darwin doing his job. :hmm:

I'm going to give you my honest opinion, and I'm not trolling. You should go ahead and take the car to a mechanic. The car should have never been running in gear on just jacks, that scares the shit out of me that people actually do stuff like this. I'm not trying to be an ass or anything...

I know about the mechanical adjustment. I may have misread his post though, for some reason I thought he was talking about a cable clutch.

Coil pack or CAS.

IMHO, I would go buy a hone (~ $30) and try to hone it. If you can run your nail over the scratch and it doesn't catch, you have a good chance of a hone taking it out (then you can run standard sized pistons), if not you will have to have the block bored (then you have to get oversized pistons...

You could try to hone the scratch out if it's not very deep then you could use stock sized pistons, if it is too deep though it would require boreing it out and you would have to get the pistons to match how much it was bored. i.e. if it is bored .020 then you would have to get .020 oversized...

For a motor that has been sitting that long, I would say at the very least tear it down to put some assembly lube on the bearings. Nothing would be worse than getting it in the car running then spinning a bearing because they were dry.

In theory to do a big bang motor with a 4gxx, wouldn't you just need to switch the cams and get 2 plugs to fire together? Just a thought, I don't know if there would be any power to be made that way, but it sure as hell would sound cool.

Have you tried taking some of the shims out of the pivot ball? If there is too many it may be keeping pressure on your pressure plate (ie clutch not releasing all the way).

I'm pretty sure his car has a hydraulic clutch system.OP, it wouldn't hurt to check the pedal for bends. Sometimes with aftermarket clutches (read heavier pressure plates) it can cause the pedal assembly to bend.

If I were you, I would pick up a running short or long block on craigslist to drop in then save the motor you have now (if its salvageable) and rebuild it over time for either a spare or an all out build. Either way you go about it, I don't think you got screwed. Just my .02

Are you loseing coolant? That spark plug looks almost exactly like one I took out of a cracked head once. You could try replacing the spark plugs and see if it will fire.

You could try getting one from a local junkyard, I'm sure it would be a cheap way to find out.

The problem I'm going to have with the 8 valve head is I'm probably not going to find a turbo manifold for it. It's a good possibility I will just save for the forged pistons, is there any one peticular brand that anyone recommends or are they all just about the same?

Compression test would be a good idea too. IMHO that car kinda looks ragged out by just looking at the engine, a compression test would help to tell you what your really looking at (if it needs rebuilt).

The way you say "putt" to 2500-3000, is the engine not running properly or is it running normal until then? The way I'm reading it, it sounds like when boost comes on its too much for the clutch to handle, but out of boost it can still hold. It sounds like a worn out clutch to me.

So what about using a set of pistons for a 16 valve 4g64 galant? It should put my cr around 9.5, but with a good tune, it should be good for a while at 300hp I would think.

Is there a lemon law where your at? I know here in Ohio, if a motor were to blow that quickly, the dealership would either have to fix it or replace the car, especially if there is a warranty. Besides, if you bought the warranty, they should be replacing the motor under warranty anyways.

What about if I get a cheap set of stock replacement pistons for a galant or eclipse? Would the compression still be too high?

I got it from a junk yard and they said it was used in their yard truck for a couple years and ran good. at the very least it is going to get a set of bearings and rings and a hone. I have the head off and everything looks to be in great shape.

I have a 91 Mighty Max 6 bolt wideblock 4g64 motor. I plan on using a DOHC head on it and putting a turbo on it (this motor is for my RX7 project). My question is how much power can the stock pistons and rods hold up to? I have seen some cars on here with the SOHC motors making good power on...

^ I've been there twice (suprised I didn't think of it), that definately sucks.

Check your pedal assembly for bends and cracks. My brother had an act2900 in his car and his pedal assembly was bent (when he got the car) and it caused the pedal to release the clutch almost on the floor, the pedal feel was pretty stiff, and eventually it bent enough he couldn't go in almost...

You all think there is a bi*** fit going on in here, try going over to rx7club.com and telling them you are going to put pistons in an rx7 lol.Back on topic, OP do what makes you happy with your car. But if you want my opinion, I would set a goal with something simmilar with that black...

Manual or auto trans and does it look like the engine has been modded? The reason I ask is because without being able to test drive the car, you have no idea what kind of shape the trans is in. You could be looking at a car with a junk motor and trans and have to scrape some more money...

What was the car apart for that you had to take it apart before you had the studs? If there is another way you can get around until the studs arrive, I would just wait for the studs myself. I agree with jayson though, at that hp level, you don't even really need studs.

I would take the SAFC off and report back.

Crankwalk is when your crankshaft starts shifting side to side. When this happens it usually takes out the main bearings with it (possibly other things too). I have heard different things that cause it, from a heavy clutch, to the material used to build the motor and crank, to poor oiling...

Is it possible that the TOB is binding on the input shaft since it seems to be shimmed too far now?