Does this hose physically connect to this plastic piece where that hole is?

So that light brown plastic piece is supposed to be this siphon valve? How does it siphon from the driver side of the tank given that it's on the passenger side, an inch away from the fuel pump inlet? Is there supposed to be a hose that connects to the end of it where the other end is in the...

Do you have any information on this siphon valve? Is there a page from a service manual that describes this?I didn't know there were two separate sides to the tank. I thought it was one big tank. Why would there be two sides; what's the purpose?Is this small hole that you refer to the...

I never thought that was the cause. I thought too much pressure in the return line is a symptom of a failed fuel pressure regulator. A failed FPR is a likely candidate based on how the engine is performing. I'd like to test the pressure but I don't see an easy way of hooking up a fuel pressure...

I believe you. Is there a kit I could buy or separate parts I could buy to do this at minimal cost? I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on this as it is a daily driver and very hungry.

I've reconnected everything with better clamps and it no longer leaks, but I still believe that the fuel pressure regulator has some issues; only because how the engine is behaving. I'd like to connect a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel pipe somehow, but I don't know the best way to do it. The...

No, that is not the hose for the fuel line. That is the hose that comes with a mightyvac for checking vacuum. The hose that was connected is black and you can see it is unconnected in one of the pictures. The clamps are those old clip style clamps and you can see it in a picture. It could be...

It actually is the return line, my mistake.I took the return line off a little while ago and used my mightyvac pump to see if I could pull a vacuum. It was able to pull some fuel out into the line and I blew it right back so it proves there was no blockage. However, I just recently checked the...

Does anybody know what that line is? I could put the vehicle on 4 jack stands and follow where that tubing goes (assuming it isn't partly hidden), but if there is someone who has experience with these lines or has pages from a service manual that describes their function, it will save me a great...

After intermittent problems with my car sputtering. I decided to replace the fuel pump. I removed the old pump and ordered a new one. I took the old one, put it in a jar of water and connected a power supply to it. It ran for a while and then started speeding up and slowing down until it locked...

You could actually stick weld that quite easily. They have rods specifically for cast iron. I used those rods on my turbo housing and my exhaust manifold. They weld so smoothly and after grinding the weld disappears into the surrounding metal and it looks like it was never broken.

Good god, you just found this now? According to your first post, the car was sitting for a few years. Now you say it was a few months?I'd of suspected squirrels or chipmunks chewing the wires, but those have been stripped by humans.

Did you read my post #34? It contains the solution to your problem.

My diagrams are from a 95-96 GSX. Your diagrams are probably for his car, so in that case he does have this extra relay. However, I don't think it's that relay because his power door locks and windows don't work.I bet if he tried the fan for the heat/AC, he will find that doesn't work either...

You can see from these schematics that the doors and windows are driven from IG1 and IG2 that come from the ignition switch. My money is on a bad ignition switch.

This is from the FSM. I see just a connection from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I don't see any other relay in between. The ignition (ST) comes directly from the ignition switch.

I think your problem is the ignition switch or whatever is feeding it. The ignition switch powers the door locks and the windows. Remember, you can't open your doors or windows unless your ignition switch is in the run position.

From what I understand, the relay for the starter sits on top of the starter itself. Power to that relay comes directly from the ignition switch that is in the steering column.

Have someone crank the engine while you hold a voltmeter across the battery. If the battery is bad the voltage will drop to less than 7 volts while you are cranking. If the voltage doesn't drop at all, then there is no current going through the starter.

Doesn't really matter what direction the leads go; although I usually use the black terminal. It will flow a very tiny current in the micro amps region that will not harm anything. Just make sure the negative battery is disconnected and only touch the clamp, not the negative battery post. And...

You can test every ground using a multimeter without turning a single bolt; other than the ground clamp. I would test these first to save time. It's probably going to be a ground issue, because it's more than one thing not working. The ground test will localize where you are losing the ground...

There are several grounds.Disconnect the negative ground clamp from the battery and attach an ohmmeter test lead. Then touch the other lead to various parts of the engine and chassis. You should read very low ohms, close to zero.

Why the hypocrisy and anger? We're all friends here; don't need to fight. I'd love to say that you're right and I'm wrong just to spare your feelings, but I can't with good conscience because I believe you are wrong; so let's just agree to disagree and not waste bandwidth on unproductive chatter...

Water should NEVER be near paint, period. Water on paint that hasn't dried yet is not good at all for several reasons. For one it beads up on the paint, trapping solvents underneath so the paint dries unevenly. Secondly, the water contains minerals and sometimes acid (from rain) that can react...

The fact that you used a 30 gallon compressor to paint your car speaks volumes about your knowledge and skill level of painting. It's like someone who owns a Lowes, all in one tool set claiming they're an ASE Certified Mechanic. Let me guess....You did not get into painting because you wanted to...

I did a search on https://car-part.com for that engine and there are a few available fro $250 - $600. Of course it doesn't include shipping though.

I don't know where you heard this from but water is the second worst thing you want in your paint; the first being oil. You want to make sure you drain the water out of your compressor before starting any paint job. Furthermore, you need to use filters, preferably at the compressor and one at...

I'm sorry, but you're incorrect.The "high volume" means that more paint is moved at a lower pressure, not more air. More air flow comes naturally with a higher pressure. The siphon feed guns need higher pressure to create the venturi effect that draws up the thick paint. The side effect of...

Can't really put too much bondo on a hood. If you do, it will crack as the hood will go through high temperature changes. You can always check using a magnetic paint gauge or simply a magnet. Magnets don't grab onto thick bondo. Yes, there is a lot of questionable body work out there, but it can...

All depends on what you're looking for. If you're looking for a show car that will spend most of its life in a garage or under a cover, then paint the whole car. If you're going to be driving this on the road, you better expect to get stone chips here and there. There's nothing worse than having...

Yes, it does appear to be repainted. As long as you can feather edge into the surrounding paint without any edges, it will be an acceptable substrate to repaint.Dead center is the best place to blend. If the damage is on the edge, adjacent to another panel, you would have to blend into that...

Compounding it will reveal all areas where the clear coat has failed. You can scratch the clear coat and it will turn white, but as long as it doesn't go through to the base you can just lay down clear over it. Compounding will make all the whiteness disappear if it's not all the way through.

How is the paint on the overall hood? Is it just that one spot that is bad or are those little white spots going through the paint? You should compound the hood and evaluate. If the rest of the paint is good, you could blend in some color over the bad spot and clear coat the hood. You do not...

This is not accurate. An HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) gun uses Low Pressure; whereas a Siphon Feed gun uses Higher Pressure as it has to fight gravity to draw in paint. An HVLP gun is better, especially if you have a small compressor.

Aren't you curious where you are losing the compression? You can do a leak down test to quickly find out where you're losing the compression. If you don't have a leak down tester, you can remove the schrader valve from the hose on your compression tester and pump some air into #1 cylinder (at...

I don't have much faith in 3D printed parts for inside the vehicle. In the summer time when your car is sitting in the sun with the windows up, the temperatures can get quite high, causing the plastic to distort.The engine compartment isn't a good place either. I made a special mount for my...

I have that OTC tester. I also have that old HF tester which I retired many light years ago.

Read the thread and you'll notice that I mentioned several times that I did a leak down test, which turned out less than 5% leakage (about what a brand new engine would read) and I did a compression test that had acceptable numbers, although I would get inconsistent readings on cylinders.Now a...

I'm aware of the fact that there is some overlap, but when the piston just starts its travel down on the intake stroke, there is not enough vacuum to overcome the pressure from the hot gasses that were just released from the exhaust, at least not enough to suck a paper towel into the exhaust...

That's exactly what I mean. If the tensioner is not tight, it will bounce as the slack is taken up from the tension of the crank. Remember that the tension varies due to valve springs fighting one another. This will most likely cause the timing to be unstable and would SOMETIMES cause the...

I never made the claim that the misfire was caused by a belt issue. In fact, the random misfire isn't even my concern right now. My main concern is the exhaust sucking in air.The plugs, wires, PTU, coils were all replaced and the plugs are firing. The injectors are working perfectly. The...

The whole reason why I brought up this topic is because I think I have a possible valve timing issue and I want to minimize as many variables as possible.Here is my dilemma. Hunting down a random misfire that occurred sometimes when driving, never while idling, among other things I replaced my...

So it is adjustable then? If this is true, then anyone replacing the sensor would have to move it to the correct position before tightening the bolts, which I'll assume was set at the factory. Does this mean there is a paint mark which shows where it's supposed to be tightened? I'm not looking...

WOW. So there's not a single person that has an opinion or concern on this?

I can't seem to get a definitive answer on this. I've always assumed that it was fixed because it is hidden behind the cam sprocket. However, I watched one of Jafro's videosAccording to him (at the end of the video at 6:25) it can be adjusted by loosening the screws and sliding the sensor...

What would you fab this in? It'd be quite expensive to have that done by any fab shop.

A compression tester and maybe a leak down tester will be your best friend. Start with compression and get back with some numbers.

Great ideas, but that flywheel cover will never hold up to the heat. My experience with 3d printing for automotive is that anything close to the engine will warp and anything that is in the interior will eventually warp from high temperatures of the sun. I had a door lock actuator fail on my...

Well, I replaced the seals again and there's no more leaking; but there still is 1mm play before installing the throttle plate. The play is taken up by the spring so you have to push the shaft on the spring side to see the play. In the relaxed position, the throttle plate goes in easily with no...

How much in/out play should there be with the throttle plate removed? I'm getting around 1mm. Is that typical? or am I missing shims/washers?