THIS IS A JOKE RIGHT CAUSE YOU GOT ME ROLLING, GOOD ONE! HARD PASS

I’ve had them on my car for about a month and I like em. Little more noise from the drivetrain but the driveshaft is much more solid with very little play. Easy install just have to make sure everything is lined up correctly. I have several launches and pulls with them on. No issues! Good product

Made a video today of me shaking my car down on a backroad with some launches and some no lift to shift stuff.

Just wanted to put a link to my videos if anyone wants to check them out I just put one out with me shaking down my car and some no lift to shift stuff. Thanks everyone

My friend has mtx-l and his sensors fail way too often. I have the lc2 and it rarely kills the sensor. Was also looking into these. Might be worth it a lot of guys say they are good.

Also make sure to scale it when done so that you are getting 100 percent when wide open throttle. Our galant wouldn't idle for crap before and now we have a pretty good one. I had to play with that and the biss screw until I got enough airflow to hold it where i wanted and it took a few tries.

On our race galant we had to crack the throttle body just a bit to get a lil more air into the plenum and then make the tps adjustment on link to bring it back into calibration. Works pretty good.

Here's some gvr4 trans carnage, and some good ol timing belt action from a 2g that someone didnt know timing appearantly.

I would try and get another one and see of it does the same thing. But I ended up throwing an oem unit on and havent had any problems since. But they are expensive. I cant say why the parts stores one have such a high failure rate. But I would stay far away from them. I have been looking at some...

It's the alternator. I worked at a parts store for three years and almost every alternator that I sold or put on my own dsm did that same exact thing. Then shortly after would fail completely. They are all junk. But hey lifetime warranty right. Lol

95 booty

Ya he usually keeps some on hand because he has a very high horsepower evo. And he has been around for awhile. Last time my buddy got some he was charged around 6 dollars per gallon I believe. Not horrible price.

There is a guy on base that gets e98 and sells it. My buddy got some and we just blended it down to e85.

i am going to do something similair in my car but i am wondering what you wired the amp into for the power? edit: never mind i see what you did now!

ya my bad i always forget what thats called, was close at least! haha

i just had A similair problem, car was idling poor and seemed like it was missing would almost die when i let off, also had no tach and speedo but everything else worked. turns out my resistor next to the coilpack came unplugged because my clip is broken, plugged her back in and everything good...

belt was still tight and everything, thats kinda what im thinking also tho because it seems like the motor just isnt holding any compression.

hey guys been tryin to help a friend get his gsx running and he has had some problems at first we had it running fine just needed some tuning but one day he went to start it up wen i wasnt there and apparently made a weird noise and car shutoff on him and wouldnt start again. tried to turn the...

dude i just got my wideband in the mail a few days ago. and my boost controller was set lower on my other car so figured it would be close to the same. i do have it hooked up different on here tho. and the car isnt running bad at all it just didnt hold as much psi in fifth. trust me ive seen...

its not my daily so im just going to put my wideband in and make a boost leak tester and then get some tuning done. and yes im aware that i shouldnt be running so much boost i just havent messed with my controller after i switched it from my old gsx. just took the car out to see how it would do...

i have ecmlink and got my idle tune the best i could without a wideband. going to do that next. thats why i havent been too hard on it.

im going to have to do some logs and see. just got an innovate wideband so going to install that and then get some tuning done. its on stock tune just have 550s in it. i got my idle tune the best i could without a wideband so havent been pushing it to hard.

so havin a boost issue on my 95 talon it holds about 16-17 psi in second and third gear and it pulls really nice, but when im cruising on the highway in fifth ill go to get on it and it will spike to about 15psi and then just falls down to only like 8 psi. i have a perrin mbc and it worked like...

first of all a knock is a whole different story then ticking lifters. i would look farther into that. 1g lifters have very tiny oil passages. stock 6 bolts have been known to hold up to 500 hp some even higher. I would do a stock bottom end rebuild and then build up the head with some nice parts...

towed it outta my garage and jumped it because it wouldnt start from sitting too long. drove it around. first time with new strut bars and it made a noticable difference to me. also had to put some air in the tires. runnin pretty good tho

you have to swap plug wires around and injectors too i think because of the difference in the cam angle sensor.

pretty sure you will not be able to tune injectors with that. you need dsmlink. even a s.a.f.c can only tune up to 650cc injectors i believe. dsmlink is the way to go hands down.

what regulator you running? it seemed like the pressure didnt want to come down any more and his regulator didnt have much more room for adjustment. i will definitely try again though when he gets back.

its pretty much brand new aeromotive too. hes going to get bigger lines, even on the site when you buy the pump it says you need to modify your lines. so im almost certain he needs a bigger return line at the least to relieve the extra pressure.

hopefully someone can answer this. my buddy has a walbro 400 with stock hard line and fuel lab filter and then -6an lines after that, and when i turn the pump on with link i set the aeromotive regulator to about 45 psi. i know base should be 43.5 but it seemed like i had to adjust the regulator...

so today we went and put stock injectors in and set the ecu up for them and even changed the injector resistor. still wouldnt fire. so then swapped a working green top cas in there and we got it to run up until we blew the little rubber hose that connects the regulator to the fuel return hard...

me too, i will post my results tomorrow. we wana hear this beast idle!

awesome thats what i wanted to hear. we have two cam sensors and i have one that i know for sure works. so we will give that a try. thanks for the info.

so trying to help my friend get his new build running. been trying to start it for about a week now. motor is a new build with ecmlink v3. precision 1200s, fp red, walbro pump, fuel lab filter, and aero regulator. we have spark, we have dead on timing, have compression, and have 43.5 psi on the...

you dont need to swap the pins if you have dsmlink. simply click use non 95/96 cam angle sensor on your laptop and your good to go. simple as that. also you can uncheck the cylinder misfire option so your ecu isnt looking for misfire. thats how i have mine setup and havent had any problems car...

someone correct me if i am wrong but i believe the tune saves to your ecu. so it shouldnt erase it if you take the battery out. try and check for boost leak or vacuum leak since you took the throttle body off.

he will be perfectly fine teeing off the bov. plenty of people do it. you want your vacuum lines as short as possible to you boost controller.

my walbro does the same thing. i need to rewire my pump thats the best thing to do. look up fuel pump rewire its pretty simple. yes it is normal though.

they need to be on there as tight as you can get them or you risk them blowing off and then you will have a vacuum leak. i usually zip tie them on as tight as they will go. i would just keep it tee'd into the bov until you can get a fitting in your j-pipe.

those accumulaters can trap air in them making it hard to bleed, you can just eliminate the thing. it helps give the pedal a soft feeling for easier drivability.

hey if it works it works right? i just keep mine as short as possible.

having the nipple on the j pipe allows your boost controller to work the best, you want your vacuum lines as short as possible for the controller.

you need to follow the instructions on how to properly bleed and adjust your clutch. check the video on the post above that should greatly help you. i never take my car to a shop. half the time they have no idea wat they are doing, IMO.

the megan downpipe eliminates the cat. so then it bolts right up to a cat-back.

meghan downpipe, srs cat back fits perfect. cant go wrong imo.

thats how most people do the swap.

those belts always stretch over time. especially under hard driving, high rpms etc. they always need to be tightened every once in awhile from my experience. but always let the car fully warm up and then tighten the belts. works for me no problem.

on a 2g i know the fronts are the same i have a fwd and awd. not sure on a 1g tho.

18psi daily up until my license got suspended. dam cop magnets around here.

ya we need to get more people out im a lone dsmer here till my buddy mt95tsi finishes his build. ive seen a few around but nobody is at all active on here and nobody ever goes to meets.