91tsi_awd submitted a new DSM Profile :The green machineRead more about this vehicle here...

Oil and a filter is cheap... a rebuild is not... I would just change the oil with some synthetic and a good filter...

Thanks for all the answers guys after many attempts and a few choice words I did get it out with a pry bar and vice grips. I wish I would have seen the chisel method and been able to give that one a shot.

As I posted a while ago my car had a ball joint failure. In turn I shredded one of my tires and bisected my passenger side axle. I have everything torn down, however, I can not seem to get the part of the axle that is stuck in the transmission. It's in a tight spot so it is difficult to get any...

Thanks for all the replies. I'll be sure to check all of the areas you guys have suggested.

Thanks for the replies.The tie rods, sub frame and strut all look good. Anything else I might want to look at before installing the aforementioned parts?

I had the passenger side ball joint break free of the control while going about 60 mph, shredding my passenger side tire, as well as, pulling out my passenger side axle. Needless to say it was a interesting experience. My question is what all is going to need replaced? I know the obvious, such...

You will need to upgrade your fuel system Injectors, fuel pump, afpr. You will need better metering, an aftermarket boost gauge and a wideband o2. You will need something to tune (dsmlink, megasquirt etc). You will need a fmic (your stock smic will heatsoak in no time; trying to cool all the air...

As for the cutting out, What size injectors, how many pounds of boost are you running, and do you have a wideband? White smoke is usually coolant related, is your car overheating at all?

I think mostly everything was covered in previous posts. I would also suggest Arp head studs, as well as, Arp manifold to turbo studs(will make pulling the turbo much easier in the future). If you go with the turbo to manifold studs make sure you get the chrome moly not the SS, I have heard a...

What are your mods on the car besides the bov?

Definetly get link! On stock boost you dont realy have to worry about blowing your t-case and, in the off chance that you do, they are pretty easy to replace.

The running like shit is most likely becaus your O2 is bad. Without a way to compensate for your bov ventimg to atmosphere your car is inturn running rich. I suggest recirculating your Bov and replacing your O2. That should remedy your idle problems.

Optima makes high cca batteries. The redtop is 720cca, thats more than sufficient for your needs.OPTIMA® Batteries : Car, Marine, & RV Batteries :: OPTIMA® Batteries

N64, I loved that system. Still play it from time to time. Had so many great games, still remember putting in the rumble pack... weighed about 3 times more than the controller... No love for Banjo Kazooie???

I like it. Would love to see what it looks like on the car!

Welcome! Nice car. I would suggest getting a Haynes manual, It'll help you learn a lot about your car. The manual, this great community and hands on experience. You'll be a DIY mechanic in no time!! Good Luck!!

Just buy a new 2g install kit, there only $20. You must have gotten that from a 1g guy. The 1g install kit doesn't come with that white cap or o-ring...

I would suggest getting a new temp sensor gauge as well as making sure it is wired up properly. It can cause you a lot of problems not knowing whether or not your car is overheating. Also I would buy this to solve your fuel leak once and for all; because it is a major fire hazard... EXTREME PSI...

Did you check the fuses?

Ya there should be wires running from the wiring harness to the sensor. Do you have a Haynes manual? If not I would highly suggest buying one. It has just about everything you will need to know about your car. Between that and these forums you should be able to get your car back where it should be.

Yellow top are most likely 510cc injectors. The black top may be a 2g 450cc.

This link should help you with the temp sending unit. There is a pic part way down, easier to see than explain. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/360574-coolant-temp-gauge-doesnt-work.htmlAs for the fuel problem, remove the leaking purple fitting and make sure there is an o-ring...

Not very long. your car will most likely start up then shut off after all the fuel in the lines has been used.

Ya that will relieve the fuel pressure. But you will likely still have some leakage when you remove the line from the afpr, so have a rag handy.Is that a real aeromotive or a knockoff? Did you install it yourself?

He has pics of his 1g on his profile page...

I assume you have an aftermarket afpr? Does it have push-lock -an fittings, or is it ss -an? Is it leaking from the line it self or from where it threads to the fuel rail?

From what i understand they have the same internals, but different bellhousings.

This should help. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/327648-replacing-oil-filter-housing-gasket.htmlI would also suggest purchasing a Haynes Manual, they have lots of helpful instructions and diagrams.

On a cold start your car is automatically raising the afr's to get the engine to start till it's warmed up. Having the 550's in, with no way to compensate for them, you are most likely running very, very rich till the engine warms up.

^^^ thanks completely forgot about maft! haha^^^

When you vent to atmosphere your car will run rich, your ecu still thinks it is getting the recirculated air. The only "proper" way to vent to atmosphere (that I know of) is to run speed density in dsmlink. I'd rather have a car that runs right; then have one that sounds cool...

I bought all mine separate on thedsmgraveyard. When I replaced my head gasket

You still need to tune after installing the 550's and the 2g maf.

Is your car a GS or a GSX? Your post says GS but your profile says GSX?

Blue top are 1g single pintel cap injectors; black top are 2g double pintel cap injectors. iirc

That is most likely your issue, running too much fuel will bog down you engine. Try throwing the blue top's back in and see if it runs alright.

I would wait on the 16g till u have the fuel mods and can run higher boost. The 16g is a little laggier than the stock turbo and on low boost your really not going to be reaping the benefits of the larger turbo, just increasing your lag.

Rly ppl are trying to drift fwd cars now? The generations continue to amaze me... lmfaoBack on topic, Sounds like it could be a clogged injector or filter.

Sweetish smell??? you sure you don't have a coolant leak??

Also an aeromotive or fuellab AFPR to replace that cxracing pos u have. lol

An awd swapbeat me to it gst96spyderman. lol

As far as I know they only make .63's for the hx40. I personally would go with a .70 A/R Bep

If the wastegate is bad. I would just replace it with an external and get rid of the infamous 16g boost creep right off the bat.

Have you done a boost leak test recently?

Nice seats, been looking for some dark leather seats. Stuck with the tan leather for now. lol

You'll need the front bumper, fenders, the headlight wiring harness, and the front framework.Here is a write-up on the conversionhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/426784-1ga-1gb-headlight-conversion-its-not-hard.html

I prefer it with no fogs lights

If you go with ARP turbo bolts, make sure you stay away from the stainless steel ones. They have a tendency to seize in the exhaust housing.