Mr. Ed

That trip was awesome!Anyone have any pics from that Dick's resturant?

Big congrats Leon!!! :thumb:

Congrat Mike.

I use an LM1, works great! Just be sure you calibrate the meter exactly per the instructions. I'm using a prototype cable which connects the LM1 to the Autronic, which allows me to log wideband info into the Autronic, instead of having to pull logs out of the SMC and the LM1, I just download the...

There are a couple benifits to reversing the compressor inlet. First, it shortens the lower IC pipe by about a foot, which in theory, helps response. Second, the large compressor cover was very tight against the radiator fan facing the passenger side, so reversing it actually gained us some...

I haven't had much time to post on the boards much lately, but I thought this newsworthy...1.608 60' 6.814 @ 110.265 1/8 10.391 @ 141.128 1/4I'll get the slip scanned ASAP.Here's a link to a picture of the new setup...

This website may be useful:http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htmGood luck,

I used SS rings, but I may experiment with copper this spring.

This is probably the simplest and cleanest method of fuel supply for setting up a simple wet system on a DSM.Well done,

I had coolant leakage problems using O-Ring's with the Metal HG. I switched to the stock composite gasket and it solved the problem. You can cut the rings into the block or head, depending on your machinist; however, I don't think that O-Rings are absolutely necessary, unless you plan to spray...

You'll also need to relocate your ignition coils, and possibly modify your upper IC pipe, if it doesn't have enough downward flex to meed up to the throttle body.Good luck,

Use a 'wet' nitrous system on a turbo car, I suggest NX or NO. Both supply nitrous and fuel in correct proportions to increase power, and activate via a WOT switch, but you can install additional triggering switches if you want.Zex's new wet system worked great on a customer's turbo car of...

The DynoDynamics will read between 15-17% lower than the dynojet, so a dynojet corrected number for your car would be around 210-214whp. Turn the boost up, retune, and use the AWD advantage off the line and it should be an interesting race.Good luck,

Can you post a picture of your throttle cable to throttle body connection? You probably need to add a throttle stop on the throttle body, unless you already have one. I seriously doubt boost pressure is causing the throttle butterfly shaft to break.

Humm... no problem out of mine so far *knock on wood*. I've heard stories of several people breaking the BBK's, but this is the first I've heard of broken accufab's due to boost pressure. I've made at least 30 hard passes on it and several dyno runs this summer, but I'll watch it closely for any...

Very well done Leon.Congrats,

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html

I was very excited about it, and look forward to backing up that run as well as pushing the car harder as I get more comfortable behind the wheel.Feels fast ;)-EG

Here's a nice writeup and pictures from last weekends Sport Compact event at MP Dragway, courtesy of race101.com and 'Professor' Nate Ramero.http://www.race101.com/results_carwars_8_03.htmlEnjoy, -EG

Thanks, though I must admit I was more worried about the tranny than the floorboards.

Thanks. I was pleased with that trap speed, an indication the car is capable of a much quicker ET at it's current power level.Thanks. I was running 30psi Boost and 50hp Wet Shot through a single nozzle before the TB with VP C16 in the tank, but the car was running so rich I was told it was...

Well done. It's great to see some people pushing their cars on pump gas.Congrats,

Most people use internal wastegates with smaller turbos such as the 16G.FYI, the 35mm isnt being produced anymore, AFIK, it's now 38mm.Good luck,

Not a lot to say really. I played with some small nitrous jets using a single nozzle before the throttle body, but with the humidity I couldnt get it jetted lean enough. Nevertheless it hit well enough to provide the antilag I needed to get a decent ET, and respectable Trap speed. Though my...

Congratulations... Welcome to the 10 second Club!

No, it won't work for several reasons. The engine/tranny mounts are setup very differently, and the Speedo cable (1G) isn't compatable with the electronic speedo connection (2g)

An amazing acomplishment indeed :rolleyes:

When refering to DSM's "Spline count" usually refers to the splines on the ouput shaft, not the input shaft, so the clutch wouldnt need to be changed. Spline count, in this case, either 22 (90-early91)or 23 (mid 91-on) in necessary to know when determining what transfer case must be used. For...

Nice improvement of times.How did the build quality of the Spec clutch look? Pedal pressure? Etc...Good luck,

It is necessary and required by most of the motorsports sanctioning bodies. Either relocate your factory bottle, or purchase a smaller aftermarket catch can from summit/jegs or your local performance shop.Good luck,

Ok, so I didn't actually break the spool, but...One of the two retaining bolts that holds the spool in place backed out and attempted to occupy the same space as the Tranny case. The bolt won that battle and left me with a 2 inch hole in the rear of the case. When we went throught the tranny...

Sure you can, assuming you're working on a rack. Drop engine and tranny out the bottom, the easiest method by far.Good luck,

Looks like a bike engine to me, but can't really tell from that angle/distance.

Find the single black connector in a bundle of wires behind the passenger right footwell kick panel. This will read O2 voltage. (Assuming it's a 1G)Good luck,

110 Octane Cam 2. I prefer C16, but couldn't find any on short notice. Fortunately we have a shipment of C16 (70 5 gallon barrels) comming in thsi week.85-90 deg & very humid, it began to rain only a few minutes after that run.Concerning reaction times, it was just a test & tune night...

Nothing record breaking, but my new personal best.Setup: 27psi, 110 Octane, No NitrousComments, Questions, Suggestions?Thanks,

www.specclutch.com has some offerings for DSM's. I may try their Level 5 when my 2600 bites it.

Stock for stock, the 6-bolt engines are stronger, thus prefered.

First Run: 14.8@90mph 1.9 60' Mods: 2.5" cat back, K&N

No, it's not accurate.

92.5 actually, otherwise dead on. :thumb:

No kidding.The spec I quoted earlier, 18ft/lb + 1/4 turn, was from a Chiltons manual. I looked for my Mits Tech manual, to verify, but couldn't find it, must be at the shop.

It may be loading up on fuel, i.e. running so right the car bogs as you decel the engine.What is the tach doing as the car bogs? Does engine speed decel or accel?

There are MANY variances between 90-94.

Is there a JDM 7 bolt? If not, (assuming he's swapping into his 2G) then he's doing a 6-bolt swap. If the 2G head, intake, and all of the 2G emissions controls are retianed, there shouldn't be any problem passing a smog inspection, or a visual inspection, as the tech will most likely not even...

I think he means that He'll be using 20w-50 to lube the bolts while Torquing.BTW, that TQ spec is 18 ft/lbs + 1/4 turnGood luck,

We recently installed VDC hinges on a 99GS. FYI we sell the kit for $1600, and charged $500-$800 labor, can't remember the exact rate. That may sound high, but of course that covers our arse's if the door is damaged during installation. With the Doors flipped, the car get's quite a bit of...

If the engine is only making 400-420HP, I wouldn't have any objections against using the stock pistons, as they've been proven to work well over the 400 crank HP range.Having said that, I used Ross's in my engine, but I'm well over the 400 crank HP mark (or 500 crank HP mark for that...