The automatic transmission had 2 speed sensors. The input speed sensor and the output speed sensor which each of those had 2 or 3 wires per sensor if I remember correctly. So when the manual came around I had to wire in 3 wires from the manual speed sensor and the forum wasn't really specific on...

I've read a few threads and looked at a bunch of pictures. They were pretty straight forward and easy to follow but now I've run into some issues. My car has 2 computers because of the automatic trans that I swapped to manual. The speed sensor was wired into the automatic TCU as that forum had...

So to begin, I've decided to clean up my bay and remove parts that serve no use to me. I plan to do a turbo 420A build in the future too. I'm also planning to do a wire tuck while I'm at it. So far I've removed A/C, Power Steering, and Cruise Control. Along the way I've run into these two lines...

Not to bring back a dead thread but I feel like I should post my solution to this issue. I have since had my speedometer working properly and no issues with the transmission. Went to AutoZone and bought the smallest self-tapping screws we could find. Came in a pack of about 6 or 8. We took a...

My 95 420A Talon gives me issues all the time. As far as the lights flickering and the radio cutting out, I'd like to say check the alternator. I bought an new alternator from AutoZone and 6 months later it was shot. I have a subwoofer and it was drawing too much power. The first sign was the...

Okay, so I continued to mess with the IAC. I reinstalled the IAC since the motor tested fine. Manual said 38-52 Ohms. It's at 51. Tested the connector and it wasnt getting power through any of the 4 prongs. Tried to follow some wires and got lost. Looked for a pinout and can't find one. I was...

420A. So after I pulled the engine and transmission, put it all back together and started to have idling issues. No code at first. So I started the car and pulled the IAC Motor plug. Ran the same. Then plugged it back in and it threw a code. P0505. Took the IAC Motor out. Tested it. It's good...

Well I ended up going to the junkyard today and grabbed a new pair of shift cables to fix the problem, figuring I'd need a new one anyway since the boot was torn. Put them in tonight and it shifts properly now! Thought it might have been a bracket or something but turns out after we got the...

I can double check on that. My brother helped during this whole process. He hooked up the cables. When I seen them, they looked correct. I can double check them tomorrow and worst comes to worst I can just get new cables. I'm wondering if the the shifter was in gear inside the car when hooked...

Update: I took the alternator out and brought it to my local AutoZone. It was tested and failed. They gave me a new one under warranty along with my test results showing the old one being bad and the new one working. As far as shifting, it's still rough but I found the accordion lookin rubber...

So I had a problem with my speedometer. The part inside the trans slipped off. So we took the whole engine and trans out, took the trans apart, fixed the speedometer part. Upon putting it back in everything was smooth. Started it up and it had all its gears but its hard to shift into 1st, 3rd...

I got the Haynes service manual. Nothing about the trans in there though. And it gust sits in the grooves on the shaft. There's 2 bumps on the yellow ring that slip it into place. Just trying to find something with the same viscosity as superglue that will bond metal to plastic and won't be...

The yellow ring in this picture is what slipped off. I have the exact same problem. This picture is one I took at a junkyard. I took it apart there to know what I was in for without destroying mine. If you look on the inner-side of the yellow ring there's 2 grooves where it fits into place on...

The gear that runs the speed sensor. Yellow plastic ring inside the transmission. I have a pic of it but I'll post it after work.

So I know what's up with the speedometer and why it's not working. I know what the inside of the trans looks like too. The speedo gear slipped out of its notchs, to avoid this again, is there any substance I can use to hold it in place so it doesn't slip off again after I fix it? I know trans...

Hey guys, it's been a bad week with flooding and all but I finally got around to the Talon. Still haven't figured it out. I checked it all and it seems to be good. We took the caliper off and put some grease on it and the noise went away for a little and came back. It's only there when I'm going...

I'll give it a try when the rain calms down a bit. Im gonna try to take a straight edge to the wheel where it mounts and put a feeler gauge under to see if its worn or anything but flat too. Imma take the caliper off too and inspect it. Its just really weird and I barely found anything on the...

Not to trash talk Perfection but I purchased a Perfection Slave and its been slowly leaking since I got it. It is my second one because the first one blew out. Ive also talked to another kid who bought a Perfection Clutch and he said the teeth broke off and scored the whole inside on the...

So yesterday I had gone ahead and moved my outter tie rod ends inward to correct a bit of + Toe. Part of my tire was wearing fast because it ran on the outer tread. Afterwards I took it for a test drive and there was a grinding noise that worsened on left turns. Upon further inspection I found...

So at first I thought it would be my valve cover leaking because that was the highest point of oil. I tightened the. Bolted down some more and it stopped. But oil still drips. I couldn't get a good idea of where so I jacked it up and started it. Went underneath and I see oil building up where...

I have the 420A.. But the balancer sits by the lower part of the timing on the crank on the left side of the engine. It slides over the crank. It's not a lifter. It's coming from the lower timing. The balancer doesn't sit flush with the oil pump like I believe it used to. It sits about 1/4" of...

So I really shouldn't worry about it? It's such a weird smell and there's really nothing to compare it to that I can think of. To me it's concerning. Maybe it is the exhaust manifold burning primer and paint dust cause the bay did get kinda dusty. I remember opening the coolant cap while it was...

I thought it would be coolant but it doesn't have a sweet smell and my coolant is filled to the top and I used this stuff called K-Seal that seals HG leaks too. I've seen water in the tip of the tail pipe when running. Could it be mold in the pipe? What would I compare mold smell to?

So I started my car after it sitting for almost a week and noticed a small ticking noise coming from the timing side of the engine. The belt was loose and we found a bad tensioner. We got an original stock on which was longer by a couple mm and installed it. Belt is tight now but I still hear...

Okay, so I've been sanding my car and preparing it for paint and figured I would run the car since it sits in the garage and it's been almost a week. So I start the vehicle and found smoke coming out of the exhaust. It's been 20° here so I didn't think anything of it but then there's this smell...

Pressure wash it? And a previous owner bondo the side - skirt on. How would I sand just to the right point in that area? And as for painting the bondo, what grit would I use to make it stick to that?

So here is a photo of my driver side side-skirt. My passenger side is about the same in terms of chipping. I finally got the car running and now that I'm looking at body work, Im trying to figure out if its best to just fill this in or if there's a way to even it out. Any ideas are appreciated...

I have the 420a engine. And I went to my service manual and found out that on 2.0L Non-Turbo engines that the IAT is mounted inside the intake manifold. But I do have the sensor on the back of the intake manifold too which makes no sense to me. As for the Idle Air Control, that picture did help...

So I've looked at pictures on Google, searched some forums and still can't seem to understand any of it. My car runs again and almost beautifully. It throws two codes (P0505 & P0113) idle air control sensor and intake air temp sensor. If anyone knows the locations it would help a lot. Thank you...

Took it apart. Cleaned it up. Bought new valves and put it back together. My car runs right now just fine. Thank you guys! It's a post Christmas miracle!

We've also pulled this motor over 15 times in the past year. 4 in one day. So doing it again wouldn't be a problem.

I have a service manual and the Haynes manual the head war page limit was .001 and we took a straight edge ruler and feeler gauge at that limit. Did an "X" over each cylinder checking all 4 corners of all 4 cylinders. Then went and checked the small gap between the cylinders. Everything checked...

So my friend and I went out to an auto-salvage yard and found a new head with valves that were good (I bent mine), only we have had some winter weather here. When we pulled the head there was some ice in the intake port on the 1st cylinder. It was frozen in the head. So we laid it sideways in...

So this is my 5th head gasket I'm going through this year. I believe there is something that I'm doing wrong. So far we've tried just a normal head gasket and we've tried putting a very thin bead of Red High Temp RTV and then laying the gasket on top. That seemed to have worked the best but then...

Is it in anyway possible that I'm able to remove a cylinder head without removing the cams on a 420A engine? Any help is appreciated.

It been up at the shop for a week now and they finally got to it. They didn't give me a full diagnosis but what happened originally is that my timing belt slipped and bent 2 intake valves on cylinder 4. I replaced the valves and bent timing pulley and now it blew the head gasket but it was...

But would the mounts be different? I read that that guy had issues in the thread above but if the neon can use the 420a why would it be difficult to mount up? I don't mind the hood fabrication.

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon ESi. It has the 420a engine in it and it keeps giving me problems. It's front wheel drive 5speed. I'm sick of the 420a and really don't wanna go the 4g63 route. But I heard the neon shares the same 420a. But they also have the SRT 4. Would I be able to build a SRT 4...

The shop I wanna take it to has helped most of my family with their vehicles. But they give me the details before they begin working, so I hope it's nothing to bad.

I did the 2gnt automatic to 5 speed swap, and it was successful before my car started giving me more problems. But I would like to know if I got a manual harness would it hook right up to the sensors I have now? And if not, which ones I would have to replace? When I did the swap it had me splice...

So my brother and I had a timing issues that caused my car to be immobilized. We fixed the timing issue and even replaced the head gasket but now a lot of new issues have risen. My rpms fluctuate between 900-1200 and when you give it gas it'll get to 2000 and then jump around really fast up...

We got a new tensioner pulley and bracket. OEM too. It still runs on that side of the cams but it doesn't slip off anymore. When it gains more speed it actually evens itself out.

So while I was at work my brother noticed that the Tensioner Pulley was bent. When the belt originally fell off and was stuck, it was because of a backed out bolt. I guess as it got more loose it bent it from the tension. Thank you guys so much for all your help.

The belt was brand new from Autozone a few weeks ago. iput it on and ran it and it began to fray a very small amount on the outter edge where it was slipping. The rest is just oil from our hands on the belt. Also, where would I get the stock OEM pulleys from? I doubt Advance Auto or Autozone...

Now when you say tensioner you mean the h-tensioner? And what do you mean by pulley? When I look at the picture it's set up exactly the same, only that I see the words tensioner and pulley twice. Also how would I be able to test which one is the worn one? Or are they both worn? And thank you...

Here is what is happening. You can see it runs off on the intake side first. Then on the exhaust side. This happens when the motor is being turned over and it does it even when the timing covr is on. I need a permanent fix for this.

My timing belt is sliding off the cam gears towards the valve cover. This happened before and it shredded the belt and made it come off and get stuck. Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

There was also white smoke coming from the oil fill cap and the oil dip stick.

I've checked all my fuses, my timing is correct. It has spark and fuel. It just won't start. My brother and I redid the timing last night and dropped the engine back in today. It started right up. Then we put the suspension all back together just to find out that it won't start now.

We pulled the plugs and head each one to the valve cover and seen spark for each one. We redid the timing twice. It ran the first time we redid it but it wouldn't idle anything under 2000 rpms. Other wise it would shut itself off and drop to zero, so we redid it a 2nd time. It does rotate freely...