I'm still around, but switched over LS stuff. These days the only thing I own DSM related is just a pile of parts. If need a 2g and exhaust hit me up, I'll let it go for cheap.

Bringing thread back to show off this custom 1995 GSX with over $40,000 invested. Heck of a deal at $19,990 https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1995-gsx-eclipse/6711219347.html

Just an update, it's stuck in what support calls boot loop. Sounds like they've seen it before, and the only fix is replace the unit which they're doing under warranty.BTW, their support is pretty awesome. I got email updates on the whole process. I knew exactly when they received my busted...

It's an idiom people used back in the day about people who bite their lip when they're concentrating or trying to figure something out.Also, my gauge pod holder hadn't came in yet so what else was I supposed to do? :)

I tried, even posted on their forum. I got a message saying they're going through some database change over right now. I'm hoping they'll get to me in a few days.It seems like there could be something loose inside because moving causes it to work correctly for a couple seconds.

I recently installed my AEM 30-0300 wideband and it's stuck in what I guess is a warmup cycle. The gauge reads HEAt > ..... > LS4.9 > HEAt etc. If I hold the gauge in my hand and turn it just right I can get an AFR reading. But as soon as I stop holding my mouth right it goes right back into...

Nope, I'm running the old basic. If I was keeping my car I'd definitely upgrade to what you bought. Those features fix the few gripes I had with my box. But sadly, as of tomorrow I'll be DSM free for awhile.

Good choice! One thing that affected me but might not others... I had to set my 1<2 and 2<3 shift points a couple hundred RPM lower than my target shift RPM. My trans would take just a split second longer to shift and I'd rev right past my target shift RPM. I'm guessing with a shift kit it...

Good luck man, interested to hear your thoughts on the 100.1. My car does not have a shiftkit, btw

I have a forced four box too and I really like it. The only thing I dislike are the hard downshifts, especially the 2<1 shift. From what I hear the newer version improves the downshift line pressure, and maybe controls part throttle shifts too, I can't remember. I hate the way the stock TCU...

There's a whole nother side to tuning an auto setup that you simply don't have to deal with in a manual. It adds another layer of complexity to the parts you pick and how you tune, especially if you want to launch the car with a big turbo. But once you get it right, it's amazing. And as for...

UPDATE: The winner was lifter tick. I checked everything again, including timing belt tension and I couldn't find anything wrong. So I took it out and beat on it, and the tick is gone now. Guess the engine just needed some load and RPMs, so hopefully it's alright now.Fair enough. It seems...

Don't remember the brand, it was the cheapest 10w30 synthetic at Wal-Mart. I've read so much on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forums that I can't bring myself to pay extra for the name brand stuff.

To be honest, I'm not sure what gears I have. Other than the timing marks, all they say on them is "Made in USA"

True story about the shredded belt, I lost a timing belt because of a longer oil pan bolt being in the wrong spot. I double checked I had then in the right spot the time.BUT my the bolts for my timing gears were a little loose. I tightened them up and it helped with a lot of the noise. There...

I haven't driven it yet, but light free revs don't have any hesitation. AFR seems to be inline too.I didn't bleed the lifters, but I did change the oil. I installed the cams and then a couple days later started the car. I turned it over a few times with the fuel pump fuse pulled so I could...

The ticking does get faster when when speed increases. It wasn't ticking before, and the tick doesn't change after the engine has warmed up.

BACKSTORY: Car was running ok before I had some maintenance issues I needed to address. Mainly loose converter bolts and a crank bolt that almost backed out. And by almost backed out, I mean I could easily turn the bolt by hand when I checked it.While the car was down, I figured I'd pull the...

I thought I recognized the DSM in CZero's video. Congrats on making it to the semi's.

Weird, I can't see the latest log on my phone, but I'd set the ECU Input to stock and remove LC1 from your logged values and write it to the ECU to give you a clean slate. Then set it up again and add LC1 back to your logged values.

Looks like you forgot to change the ECU Inputs. Try putting EGR back to stock and map the LC1 to the front O2. My guess is that'll fix it.

Not exactly a DSM, but some of my favorites.

If the main concerns are clearance, the oil squirter tubes breaking, and high oil pressure... why not cut the tube off at the base of the squirters? No worries about broken metal in the oil pan, clearance, or high oil pressure. You'll lose the cooling ability of the squirters without any down...

Really? http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-2g-coolant-temp-sensor-question.328009/That's the thread we found when we were troubleshooting that same CEL with the fans not turning on. Looks like the OP found the same thread because he posted in it earlier this week, so I'm assuming he...

Just a theory, but you may want to check your temp sensor to make sure you have the right one. It's tricky for '95s because they used different CTS sensors for the Eclipse and Talon, and the CTS will fit either harness. To check it, put a multimeter to it. At room tempature, if you get around...

If your fans aren't working, I'd say that's a big part of the problem. They should turn on when you reach a certain temp, regardless of what the thermostat is doing.I run cheap auto parts store thermostats and have in every car I've owned. A $3 part with a lifetime warranty beats out a ~$30...

I know you said your running rich on purpose, but I'd suggest setting the AFR through the DA table instead of increasing values in the SD table. You want to be able to choose your AFR per cell instead of trying to recalibrate the SD table, makes things much easier. And as said earlier it'll make...

Oh man, awesome news. Twicks, I was reading your posts earlier about replacing output shafts seals on manual cars dreading this job. I'm really glad I don't have a five speed, tapping the shaft in place is so much easier.

So I've read two different ways to reinstall the output shaft. One is to replace the oil seal for the output shaft and reinstall the same way it came out. Tempting, but have my doubts that's the right way. Sounds like there wouldn't be anything to keep the output shaft from moving in and out...

That PDF is extremely helpful!It looks like p.28 step #16 says the output shaft is removed by hammering it out using a rod going through the center diff. I assume pulling it out with the transfer case would be about the same thing. Probably didn't damage anything doing it the way I did as...

The rag and vice grip trick worked. Just pried it a little bit to get it started and the transfer case came right off. The splines on the input ( or is it output?) shaft were dirty and looked a little rounded, probably the reason it was stuck on there.After the t-case was out of the way...

Forgot to mention this is on my auto car. I've found a lot of information on how to replace the trans output shaft on 5-speeds, but I've come up short on auto information.

Does pulling the shaft out like I did cause any damage to the transmission? I'm assuming I'll need to pull the end case, VC, etc to reinstall?

This weekend I tried to pull the oil pan to inspect the bottom end and ran into problems. Using the VFAQ, I pulled all 5 bolts holding the t-case to the transmission and tried pulling the t-case. I tried wiggling it from side to side and prying it off and nothing worked.I finally grabbed it...

I was in your your exact shoes two years ago. I found a killer deal on a stupid clean 2g and bought it. The first few months was like Christmas, drive a really clean 2g or a beast of an auto 1g. But tying up $6k+maintenance into another toy really financially delayed my goals for the 1g. So...

I've found that the smaller the leak the more pressure I had to use to find it. Had a similar issue I was trying to track down, held 20psi similar to yours and I couldn't see any leaks. But as soon as it hit 25psi the leak started to whistle. Tightened it down and fixed the problem.

Seems to hold low boost decent, but that pressure is really low for a good test, especially with your turbo. Leaks are much easier to find under higher pressure.

This past week they posted a slip with an 1/8th mile trap 6mph faster than on their 201 pass, the iron block limit be a little higher than what they put together last season. But that's neither here nor there, it seems like the limit of the iron block is where the billet isn't even breaking a...

That's surprising considering Boostin's Red Demon short block is under $4500 and they're trapping over 200mph on it.

The way Aussies say deck will never get old.Putting a set screw on the dowel is a pretty awesome idea. It's hard to believe these motors have come so far.

Glad you're mostly alright, hoping insurance is involved and getting the help you need. Chest fractures and chest pain isn't something to fool around with.

There was a guy on Facebook looking for one not long ago. IMO, I'd sell it. I've seen them go for the cost of a decent true TS manifold if you wanted to go that route.

+1 manually adjusting my TPS helped solve some of my idle issues. I'm seeing .63v with the throttle closed without correction.That said I'm very thankful for the TPSAdjust feature. Even if your TPS reads .63v at idle, it could still be just a hair off and oscillate between .63v-.65v when you...

With those big cams and a higher idle, it's ok if Airflowperrev is a little higher then .25. Although you definitely need to make sure your BISS is adjusted correctly.I can't see the log, but IMO looking at CombinedFT at idle is more difficult than locking it in open loop and making deadtime...

I got the best idle and part throttle response with the deadtime at 275. A deadtime of 220 put the WB readings dead on, but I still found the occasional stall after a free rev or coasting to a stop. So I bumped the deadtime up until I couldn't stall the car if I tried.Just a note: I've...

Long oil pan bolt was the problem.It took me awhile to figure out exactly where the shorter bolts should go so I made this terrible pic for anyone else interested. The two circles are where the short bolts need to be. I had a longer bolt in the left most spot, so I switched it with the...

Found the issue. I copied the DA timing table from a tune I had on a stock 6 bolt that ran great and was tunned by a pro. It had about 15* of timing at idle. Seemed excessive to me so I backed the idle timing cells to a stock 8* and it idles great now. No more lean tip in and I can run the...

I played with it some more. I first decreased BaseTipInTPSAdj down to 0 for the 0-1 rows, thinking maybe it's actually getting too much fuel. No help. Then I incrementally increased BaseTipInTPSAdj all the way up to 30 and it didn't help idle tip in at all. So I put those values back to...

Dang it, just last week I paid over three times that amount for baffles from one of the powder coating places. Should've waited, good deal here.Thank you for making these, and not taking advantage of the community on the price.I'm going to go throw up now LOL

Funny you mention over squirting, I was just reading this http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/linkv3-boostest-and-boost-gauge-not-equal-attached-log.436795/page-5#post-152992985I have my LC2 in the downpipe, and in the log it spikes lean then goes pig rich. Maybe the lean spike isn't the actual...