Try adjusting your globals closer to 0. I just dealt with my car going lean under boost for a long time. It Ran fine everywhere else. I was so sure it was a mechanical problem I ignored the tune for a while. Give it a shot, can't hurt.I am running 1650s and wanted the global settings to...
I just did some reading on higher volume fuel pumps cavitating from using a stock sized "sock". Is it possible that the pump is out flowing the stock sock? I bought a brand new one, but it has been on every pump I've tried since I first broke in the engine. If it's a very low micron filter, not...
Update:I got my 450LPH and rewired it to ensure proper voltage/current.I also ran a 4awg cable from battery negative to my buss bar and then directly to the headSwapped in a factory set of coils and wires,and removed the MSD DIS-2.removing the MSD seems to have helped some, but the car...
Thanks craig. What kind of symptoms did you see with the bad coils? I'm at my wits end, I don't know what else to try. I'm wondering if I should just put a stock coil/wire setup on the car for testing purposes. We bypassed the MSD when we first noticed the car going lean but the problem...
Thanks Brian. My next move is going to be new coils. I'm wondering if the spark is weak at one or more coils (COP). The spark could be strong enough to let the car idle and drive in vacuum, but as soon as cylinder pressure rises, the spark can't ignite the mixture.I do have a bit of a fuel...
well I am relying on the readings from the wideband, and the Front O2 that both indicate the mixture going lean. The condition is repeatable and consistent. Both sensors lean out at the same time. Based on this, I think its safe to say that the required amount of fuel is not making it from...
I'm having a big problem with my car going lean. More can be found here http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/lean-under-any-load.488344/After troubleshooting every fuel system component I'm starting to look into wiring and grounding issues. I have verified all sensors have proper ground with the...
Thanks luv2rallye. I have an AEM volt gauge. The gauge is wired into my distribution block which is fed power from the battery. The gauge always shows 14+ V with the car running. The alternator is for sure doing its jobI have the 3 pin connector at the alternator. I confirmed that I don't...
Well as an update for today...I checked the injector pack with a meter and all positions gave me about 6ohms which is within limits.I also pulled the ECU out and checked both sides for anything out of place, all looked well.I really need to swap out injectors but that might be a while...
I reread that thread and I get it now. The 100% load scale is fine because I'm starting with a fresh VE map. If I was trying to use the old VE map and I only changed the load scale, the tune would be off.As an update:I bought a new battery tonight and put it in. The battery did not help...
Thanks for the link Zane. I'd be lying if I said I understood all the tech talk in that thread, but it seems that the new firmware update is intended to run 100% loadfactor where the old firmware was 114.8%. Am I correct in thinking that? There still has to be another problem because regardless...
I did confirm that pressure rises with an air compressor on the regulator and the pump.I'm trying to figure out how to say what's in my head haha. With the air compressor test, the engine is not consuming fuel. Once I'm driving the car, fuel is being consumed, so even if the pressure is there...
Thanks Robert, the fuel sock is brand new. I replaced it when I put the first AEM 320. I swapped the new sock onto the replacement pump.I have also been wondering if the pressure is not rising while driving. I'm going to try these new injectors, but if they don't solve the problem I need to...
Thanks gofer, I think your on the right track with the injectors. I actually just swapped in a set of borrowed 1200cc injectors to see if the other set just isn't flowing what they should be. If the problem persists I will give your method a shot to see what the results yeild. Did you use the...
We actually did try disabling the idle switch on thebfirst night of trouble shooting. It didn't help. I changed my openloopthreshhold to force the car to idle in open loop. Closed loop idle has never been fun in my car. The Q45 TB is mostly to blame I think.If other cars drive fine with the...
So i'm on a fresh engine, full build top to bottom, idle and cruise tune will work for now until I put the permanent injectors in. My problem is that as soon as I approach boost/put any load on the engine it is starved of fuel.So far I have:
Swapped in another known working pump (AEM 320LPH)...
Just want to put this issue to rest. I got my hands on a 1g halfshaft, same part number as the 95/96 2g manual MB526981. It slid in and bolted up no problem.So for anyone else thinking about pressing the bracket off an automatic halfshaft and pressing it onto your manual halfshaft, it will...
The jays racing alternator relocation kit acts as the spacer. I have not tried the 2gb shaft bracket with the A/C bracket because I don't have one. I probably should have just ordered a bracket....I could still do that. I just preferred the simpler earlier setup without extra parts to bolt on.
The car came with the 2gb style bracket, no A/C, and only one bolt holding the bracket to the block since the one hole didn't line up at all. I wanted to correct that, and ended up in a worse situation...I did find one other thread where a guy had a verticle alignment issue, but the problem...
I think we're miscommunicating here. All 2g manual shafts are the same, all 2g auto shafts are the same. We know that the brackets are what make the difference from 2ga-2gb, and shaft length from manual to auto.If your using a 97+ half shaft now, you wouldn't be able to run a 95/96 half...
they differ big time between 95/96 and 97+ I think that is what you have seen. The differences between the auto/manual of the same year should be very minimal if any at all.
It could be, but the offset as far as left/right everything lined up. The issue was up/down. the holes on the bracket are too high and the whole shaft had to be forced down to get the bolts in.Does anyone have both an auto and manual half shaft available to check the differences in brackets...
Thanks man. I immediately noticed the difference in length. That's why I swapped the bracket onto my shaft. Do you happen to know the difference in the brackets? I'm thinking the only difference is where they drill the mounting holes. The contour is correct, and the bearing I.D./O.D. Is the...
hey guys, I'm wondering if anyone has ever ran into trouble with their halfshaft mounting bolts not lining up with the block. I'll give a quick back storyI have a 2g with a 6 bolt block. When I bought the car it had the original "late" 2g half shaft that is supposed to bolt to the AC bracket...
The way you marked the plate makes sense to me. Who assembled the head? If a machine shop did it, they should provide you with numbers on valve tip height and seat pressure after assembly. The springs should have included a spec sheet with targets for those variables. I know you said cheap...
I'm not sure of his plans, but if he wants to run on a real track, they won't allow your method of wiring. The alternator must run back to a cut off switch, and the battery is run to the same lug of the switch. Another cable is run from the other side of the switch to power the car. This way...
Just a thought...when you put the jays kit on, did you sand the anodizing off the bracket that bolts to the block? Adding a ground wire from the alternator like thirsty said may help if not. The anodizing prevents good contact.
How is your battery grounded? Grounding to the body in the trunk could cause low voltage. Are you running a sense wire? If so, where did you run it. A buddy of mine is having the same issue, not sure what's causing it.
I've been searching with no luck. Does the injector resistor pack need to be grounded through the body of the unit or can it be insulated? Thanks in advance
Someone already mentioned that your problem will be different cc from one cylinder to the next. .005" across the length of the head wouldn't make your timing belt slide off. If its a stock build, and a conservative tune you may be fine. But if it were my car I would want it straight just for the...
I dug through your thread and found a diagram of the fusebox. It shows that you ran battery power to the head lamp buss like I thought, but also to the bottom post of the alternator fuse. Which you just explained why.No power goes to the top of the 100A fuse. I was wrong about that. Your...
So I'm rewiring my battery relocation, but i'm not sure where i need to suppluly power to the fuse box.I kept notes, and they tell me where the stock 8awg wires were ran. However, I will be bypassing the fuse box with my alternator charge wire, so that fuse will be left empty on both sides I...
So I'm curious if anyone has tried to remove teeth off of our synchro rings and slider to allow for faster engagement. Having a late 2g transmission, I know that my 3-4 slider is one of, if not THE weakest point. That being said, removing 1/2 of the contact area, and stressing the remaining...
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm assuming the AEM output was wired that way in hopes that the OEM gauge would still function. It never did, so I probably won't hook that back up
So I spent a little too much time away from my harness relocation. I have a wire labeled volt gauge, and a wire from my oil pressure gauge also labeled volt gauge. Not sure if I messed up the label, or labeled the oil pressure wire by mistake rather than a wire from the volt gauge.The wire i...
Turbo is fine, cylinder has one vertical gouge, about .005" deep, and not wide at all. I'm not too worries about it. Could be damage from a long time ago that a previous owner dealt with.
Most of the extending was done to my fuse box harness, not the ecu harness. I extended every single wire with my fuse box being moved inside the car. Both sides end up being too short to reach the head lights/fans.The ecu harness is more likely to be shortened since factory routing sucks...
So I've been porting my 2g head and noticed some pitting in the #4 combustion chamber. Milling the head will get rid of the issue on the surface, but in the chamber Ill have to smooth it out.Was this caused by detonation? Should I be worried about the gouges on the head surface? I have plenty...
I'm coming up on the last leg of putting my fusebox in the cabin and changing most of my ecu harness, and can only say to take your time. Do one thing at a time, cut-crimp-solder one wire before cutting Another. Getting ahead if yourself is easy if your not careful.Both sides of the fuse box...
Thanks again for clarification, the diagram backs you up.I have an overflow tank, it is on the other side, above the radiator cap seal so that coolant isn't always flowing through the port.Thanks for the diagram crimson
So I'm wondering if i can remove this water line? It runs right down to the water pipe currently, not sure where it goes from the factory. I don't see any problem removing it, but I'd rather double check quick.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/298047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.htmlThat should help identify any connectors. If you have abs, the connectors/locations may be different.
Thanks man. I found out about that meet and video only meets up by Costco. I was going every weekend but I started tearing my car down for winter so i won't be out until next season. I come from a real small town so the scene out here is much better than anything back home. I'm sure we will...