This is the Build Thread for 93 Talon. Reply below.

Yeah kinda what I’ve been leaning towards but was hoping to see someone building them and offering for sale on here. New car tho I need 1gb for 93 talon

Does anyone know where to find a catback option for 1G fwd? I’ve searched online and haven’t found any option available. Thx!

It sounds to me there might be an error with the install of the clutch. Did you resurface the flywheel?

If your hp goal is around 220, I would stay N/A! It will keep it running a lot longer, and be much cheaper. The N/A engines have higher compression, and with that you would need to run low boost anyway without going to forged internals. I would do the basic bolt ons and maybe some head work then...

I would assume since it came out of the visor, it would be for a radar detector that was mounted high on the windshield. If you do not have the other end plugged into the lighter and don't see one around, it may be hard wired in.

Looks like they also offer just the recirc section of the pipe as well if you only need that. http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product-p/cxr-pip250-bov4.htm

Looks like DSMGraveyard has one on their website now. http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/CX-Racing-p/cxrkit-1g-stock-bov009.htm Hope that helps!

I recently ran into an issue with my car not running hardly at all, then died once I came to a stop. I tried to pop start, but it simply would not run. It came down to my battery! I knew it was shot, but had NO idea it was that bad. What did it do when you tried to pop start? Do you know if the...

I ran balance shafts in my first DSM (base 1.8L), only for one of the bearings in the block come out and end up in my oil pan. Since then I have run no shafts in my cars. I have never experienced any issues, but I have heard this puts extra pressure on the oil pump gear. A while back, I saw on...

Personally, I would only slap a turbo onto that engine without changing internals for a short term thing, with the plan of building another engine for boost. Yeah you will get away with boosting that engine for a while, but the higher compression will take it's toll if you are not careful. Some...

No coolant in the oil is a good sign. I would do a compression test to double check that everything is good, along with give you a good idea of the general health of the engine. Take a look at this thread. Quite a bit of good info as to where to start when buying one of these...

I would definitely address that radiator crack. Did it leak while warming up or after the test drive? Did he say what makes him believe the water pump is bad? Reason I ask if it leaked is I was just wondering if it is low on coolant as a result. Do you know if he drove the car like that? I would...

Haha makes sense. Now that I think about it, don't they use some kind of stone that picks up the vibration?

So is there any other way to test it other that to unplug and go for a drive?

I would definately start by taking a look at the sensor and see how tight/loose it is. No sense in replacing a part that is not faulty, so I personally would start there. Vibration can also cause these things reading irregularly. Are your balance shafts still in? Do you have Poly motor mounts...

You said you are going to get a remap, so do you have a way to check fuel pressure in the car? Or possibly have an AFPR to check under the hood while the problem happens?

have you checked for fuel leaks?

I like the hairspray idea! As already stated, the vacuum will leak at the same spot as boost. Think of it as air escaping. Whether that is positively or negatively charged air, it is still air that will escape.

If it is not set right, I believe the ECU will constantly be trying to pull timing am I correct on that? Also, shouldn't he be okay without a logger so long as he grounds the timing ground and gets timing inline with spec?

Gates makes a great Kevlar reinforced belt btw. While your at it, go ahead and replace the tensioner with an OEM Mitsubishi part. DO NOT use knock offs, especially when it comes to timing components. What may save you a couple bucks now will cost you THOUSANDS in the long run!

Like mentioned above, I would definitely go ahead and do the timing belt first. Nothing is worse and a broken belt resulting in bent vales, cracked pistons etc... This forum will be your best friend as you start your path with your car. Use the search button first before posting, trust me we...

Like stated above, I would list your current turbo set up, along with your goals. I have known quite a few local DSMers to put down some good power via a ported 2g manifold. Again, the answer really is dertermined by your turbo set up first and foremost.

I have always used OEM gaskets, except for the head gasket. I have used a Cometic MLS (multi layered steel) gasket on my past 3 builds and am very happy. May not be required, but like I said I have always been happy with my results!

I recently heard the PCV with catch can is not only good for venting/ relieving pressure, but also help with power numbers while doing so. I recently met a local DSMer here locally, and he turned me onto the idea. My current DSM came with a little filter in place of the tube. I never really gave...

I have gone off both vacuum port on throttle body and vacuum line for the fpr with no problems. just my 2 cents!

when I said I was flowing too much air I meant that with this POS turbo I cant stop it at 12 like it used to on my old car. It always held fine on the old car, but I didn't have all the mods I currently have on the vehicle. I know the I didnt hit the flow limit of the 16g, just that it seems the...

Thank you for the input and sorry for the lapse in response! I would be happy with anything around 350 hp. And while I realize it is a large turbo, I anticipated quite a bit of turbo lag. But as far as not handling anything a 16g can put out, I seem to be pushing too much air for the wastegate...

So earlier this year I pruchased a Precision Turbo SC6165E T3/T4 turbo used off a forum. Upon recieving the turbo I realized the amount of shaft play present, and I sent it to Precision who rebuilt it. I currently have an older 16G Godspeed turbo I bought off EBay for my previous dsm(I know bad...

So I get your question but is the reason your asking because the car isn't pulling when it spools?

What are your supporting mods? Do you have link? You should hear the turbo and feel it pull HARD once it starts to spool. Where is the gauge connected?

Turbo size has A LOT to do with it! As well as the amount of air the engine is capable of moving. The quicker/more air pushed thru the engine, the more/faster boost the turbo will push. Smaller turbos spool quicker than larger ones. On the other hand a small turbo may fall off during high RPM's...

Does it sound like it is running on 2 cylinders? I had an intermittent problem with mine for a while due to a hacked wire job from previous owner on the CAS signal wire right before the ECU. Car ran on 2 cylinders but threw a code. Check firing order and try pulling one plug at a time to narrow...

What exactly are the symptoms? what makes you assume the ECU? For no reason at all will the ECU need to be "reflashed" due to a direct swap-unless you went from n/a to turbo. For tuning purposes there is a company called ECMTuning that offers a "piggyback" set-up that allows for real time...

The smoke would not be blue if it where from a rich condition. As everyone stated it could be the oil seals in the T-25 and a compression test should be performed. Aside from rings or head gasket another reason for internal oil consumption could be valve seals.

seems a little early to need head upgrades. Little things such as turbo (nothing too big, maybe an Evo BIG 16G) exhaust, and wideband o2 sensor would be a good start. once you can monitor afr it is possible to up the boost safely. Although I can't honestly say that I wouldnt be tempted to at...

a little white on the plugs is normal for a boosted car. have you checked for vacuum leaks? any busted/corroded lines?

I had a problem with mine when I bought it. got a steal on it for that reason.? Will the car start when its jumped? or not even then? When I bought mine the car would start but only when using a jumper wire from the starter to the battery. Turned out to be the grommit for my clutch pedal switch...