4 > 2
awd/manual swap
do you even shift bro?
dream ingredients
get a grip
hit it from the back(wheels)
swap meat
tushy torque
unicorn hind legs
where's your shaft?
Complete swap from a manual 95 Talon TSI AWD with LSD rear diff. Every single part you need including hardware. (bagged and labeled)^^ Shipping would be outrageous. ^^There's some surface rust on the subframes and knuckles but everything is 100% solid.I'm posting this to hear offers. Which...
Why don't you guys that are searching for auto stuff just post an ad to trade instead of just cockblockin my ad? He said will it work and how much, not who wants to trade.
No damage to the ball joint.. no damage to anything..no need to fight another bolt that might be stuck..Hit the knuckle. pow. it comes out. Everyone should learn this simple bit of..magic.
Hit that exact spot that you circled with a sledge hammer..HARD. if you don't knick it up a bit you aren't hitting it hard enough..When you hit it hard enough it'll pop right out. super easy.
Don't you already have the axle? You could cut the bad hub off of it in like 10 minutes! Or measure it if you really need the exact length. ( the place you get them from labels them by length and not year make model?). You are correct that The AWD has different length axles than the FWD which...
It's been a while but I think I remember being able to remove the bearing and axle together from the knuckle by taking apart the axle at the boot and then pulling it out. Then just cut the layers of the hub until you get close to your axle..the grinder has saved me countless times..good luck...
The toughest axle I've ever dealt with finally popped using acetylene torch while impacting a large 3 jaw puller. Practically melted the bearring. Everything else failed including a huge shop press. On the opposite axle I didn't waste any time and cut the bearing off the axle. You could get a...
If everything works with the shift box then it's probably not your TQ..more likely your tcu or wiring (or something else)..
And dude..auto AWD isn't gonna light em up like your fwd 5 speed..
That doesn't look that bad to me. I'm in Ohio and I've seen far worse. It's definately not too late to stop it and it's worth all the work. Keep going :hellyeah:
Could be..you'll have to dig in and see. If that's not missing, there's also a snapring like that in every clutch drum holding everything in place.. Good luck!
You can check the solenoids without removing the valve body but if you have an electrical problem it won't probably test right. You check at the plug that comes out of the case.
On an awd you have to support the motor. 3 out of 4 mounts are removed when dropping the trans. I didn't use a cradle/sling/support at the top because it would have just been in my way. Mines wayy up in the air too but I used treated lumber blocks on top of my Jack while I pulled the trans. Then...
Well doctor, there appears to be what could be blood on my shoe.. diagnosis?
Haha just kidding. Yeah dude..Jack up the car and find out where it's coming from..could be from your brakes, could be from your shocks, could be from your motor or trans or power steering.. should be super easy to...
i could be wrong but I think the sound is coming from a different problem. Leaving the gap behind the carrier bracket probably isnt a good thing though either way. I would jack up the corner in question and shake down the wheel to try to isolate the clunk sound. If it is the axle carrier, its...
If you don't have the bracket you can use washers like some people have. One side of the axle carrier bracket sits overlapping the ac bracket in the awd. If it's not there then there is a gap. You have to make a spacer or fill that gap.
I agree with everything planzero said except the Haynes manual. Don't waste your money. Get an actual FSM for your year. The Haynes manual is a joke. It includes every model and year eclipse yet it's smaller than my manual for my 95. Think they left out anything important? Uh yeah..
In the manual theres a list of the spacers pertaining to each section. Like when your rebuilding a clutch assembly it will show that you have an option of snap rings of varying thickness to make up for the specific space that you measure. Each section of the trans will have a part that is used...
I had to rebuild mine because I had no forward, no reverse, and I had shavings in the pan. The cause was a thrust bearing that had completely disintegrated and caused the front clutch assembly to grind into the back of the pump. The metal shavings and the pieces of the shattered thrust bearing...
That sucks! I would tear it apart again and find out what's getting shaved. Props for tearing it down already a million times though. Your absolutely right about doing it yourself and being better off.. forget the oil pressure until you figure out what clearance is off or what's...
The "reverse is mechanical" thing is because no solenoids are used to shift you into reverse. You shift it into reverse yourself (shifter linkage - manual lever-manual valve). Bad sensors and solenoids won't rob you of reverse. (unless it was pressure control but you still have forward) It's...
Good job on getting the manuals and getting this far! You've made progress for sure since originally you couldn't even stay in park. Now that you've ripped into it a few times you can probably see what the park mechanism is doing and where it is. I think you might have fixed it but I'm not 100%...
Is this for real?dude. get the manual. There's a specific way EVERYTHING goes in. Plus youll be on the "same page" as the rest of us when communicating your symptoms/problems/questions. Do you know how complicated a transmission is and if you do, how do you expect us to figure out whats wrong...
What's the front clutch I'm talking about? The rear clutch that's behind the front clutch? Nope that's the rear clutch I'm talking about. I don't want to confuse things anymore though so I'm gonna leave you to your research. Good luck bro! your car is sweet hope you get it figured out!
:ohdamn: That really sucks!
it was the guy at the place he chose that broke your car. You needed a p/s pump and water pump and very likely a complete timing job (as per the maintenance schedule and also because the water pump is under the timing :argue:) and you were getting overcharged and it...