I rocked an open down pipe for two days with my 14b, I would have drove it around longer like that, but cruising at lower speeds aka around town in stop and go traffic it got a bit noisy, so I went and had a flex pipe installed so it connected to the rest of my exhaust. Was actually really...

I had to beat it off with a hammer and a pry bar. Took almost an hour to get them apart. Of course this was on a 1g one, but the concept is the same.

When you are saying its trashed, is clutch surface itself trashed or the springs? Have any pictures of the flywheel and clutch disc? Only thing I can think of besides slipping the clutch to much is it's not adjusted properly and it's dragging. Or something is severely worn in the pivot ball and...

Technically your lower radiator hose is supposed to be cold, or cooler than the upper (on most cooling systems). So it's fairly normal, obviously if it's got out or you have been driving for awhile it will get hotter.Those coolant hose block heaters go into the lower radiator hose, not 100%...

I had a very similar problem on my 1g, nothing anyone suggested (after searching this topic for a long time) worked, if the temperature drops into the single digits or low teens I literally can't start my car, no matter what I use!Only thing I have found that solved the issue was a block...

Ok, just wanted to make sure.Not saying there is anything wrong with using that term, but for somebody new to dsm's or vehicles in general that could really cause them some confusion and to possibly pass on misinformation.I end up dealing with it a lot at work, especially when people call...

6-bolts and 7-bolts don't use a distributor or cap, they use an ignition coil. The 1.8l engine s used a distributor ignition setup. Unless you are referring to something else? :confused:Are you calling the ignition coil pack the distributor?

It does look like the stock one, there is a thread on the forum I found awhile back showing how to turn the stock one into an adjustable one, it was done on a galant fpr, but the concept would still be the same for the others. Basically remove the reducer for the return line and you can adjust...

Wish you were a bit closer, I would load up the 2 ton hoist I have access to and bring it over and let you use it. But really you could get a couple of guys and pick it up & remove it that way. Me and another guy picked up and moved a long block sbc 350 (one on the front of the engine and one on...

Awesome! I'd be interested, my one and only set of clear headlights I bought and sold in less than two days, kind of wish I would have kept them (made for a nice profit though!). LOL

Same guy offered to trade for my 92 tsi. LolI told him later this spring after the snow is gone, I would be willing to trade, having 3 rwd vehicles won't help me in Missouri. :DI would do it, but that's just me. I literally am willing to do it after winter.

Not sure on the wiring, I have seen it done though. It was on Craigslist not too long ago. It was a 94 eclipse 1.8l, that the guy did a 90-91 1ga swap on. Wish I would have gotten ahold of him about the wiring.

It should be your low coolant light for your coolant reservoir.

I crossed the part number at work and it came up as an oil seal for a geo/cheverolet prizm 93'-02 & a toyota corolla 93'-02'. Didn't have enough to see what exactly it was for on those particular vehicles.

They may be, I don't have the original ones to check with. 20mm would probable be better for the spark plug wire cover. I do plan on buying 25mm & 20mm Allen head stainless bolts now for all of the valve cover bolts, coming from McMaster-Carr.

I believe the spark plug cover is M6x1.0x15mm. I am tempted to get all stainless bolts, but we will see.

Exactly what I needed to hear! Thanks

Alright so I picked up this Hyundai valve cover last week, I have been searching this topic for weeks (been looking for a valve cover for awhile), the only info I can find for the bolts on a Hyundai valve cover is for the black shaved one, which does for a fact have larger bolt holes and a...

They have been discountiued for quite some time, I lucked out and found a set with matching corner lenses at a part out, got them for $7. Flipped them for about $160 less than 24 hours later. :cool:Best place to look is ebay or the classifieds. More than likely they will be used if you did them.

They are exactly same, except there is one extra nipple on the turbo intake.Not the greatest pictures but it's in the teens outside and my attic is also freezing (where I keep a lot of my extra parts).Turbo intake manifold, extra nipple:N/t intake manifold, no nipple just a blank cast:

Well I am running 90' turbo cams, which from my understanding are the same specs as the n/t cams from 91'-94'.

Not sure what you exactly mean by me making you sick? :confused:You can try to one up me if want, not really building and driving this car to show off a Frankenstein creation.Also in-case anyone is wondering why I am using an afpr, its because I have a Walbro 255 in the tank. So my car...

I figured I would add one last piece of information, in-case anyone is ever searching this topic and finds this thread. I was previously running a n/t fpr and as of last Friday (15th) I picked up a full throttle speed afpr and currently have it set at the turbo fuel pressure (27psi with the...

I have a lot of people who don't believe my car works the way it is set up, especially when I pop the hood and prove it's running with the turbo parts that are on it (not really sure what's so hard to believe). I even argued with a guy for a good solid thirty minutes about my car, he was saying...

I get 33-34mpg with my street tires on and 30-33 with snow tires. I drive it 120 miles a day for school, hasn't failed me yet. I am also using a turbo transmission, so it is geared a bit higher. I am not running stock turbo compression or stock n/t compression, I am running around 9.5:1-10:1 (I...

It will work and your car will run just fine, as long as you swap the injectors to match your ecu and the maf you will be golden. I have 30,xxx on my rebuild using all factory turbo parts while running n/t. My car was a factory turbo car so the wiring harness was already there as well as the...

Looks like dorman reproduction manifold. I have one sitting in my room, part number 674-265. Mine says made in Vietnam, but the first part number is the same.I work at oreilly's & bought this for myself. Pretty good quality copy, most of dormans stuff seems to be that way.

I just shot some pb blaster on them and let them sit a few mins and took a 1/2" drive 17" breaker bar and man handled them loose. Took a lot of muscle to pop them loose, but it did the trick and nothing broke.

I have an 8lb aluminum Fidanza on my 1g, had the same issue. Had to bump my idle up to around 900rpms +/- 50.Haven't had a problem since!

You should have two lines running to your back caliper, one is your e-brake cable it should go to a big spring on the backish side of the caliper towards the rear and the other should be a rubber hose that runs to the middleish area towards the top on the back of the caliper.

Sounds like your brake caliper could be sticking, or your brake hose to that caliper is collapsing aka not letting your caliper fully release.I see it happen a lot at work, usually it just locks up though. Not really sure on the noise, but if its always dragging on the rotor you have to except...

I broke a shift cable about an hour and a half from home, only had third, fifth and reverse, I could sometimes grab first if I shut it off and messed around with the shifter, luckily I didn't hit any red lights. Clutch was still in perfect shape, although it was fairly new... :thumb:

+1 on the magnaflow resonator, I have one on my talon and it really makes a difference. They are relatively cheap, easy to get, come in all sizes and lengths plus they are stainless steel and look great!

I bought my talon missing a lot of the a/c components, I removed what was left of it. Only thing left for the a/c is the known for hot and cold and the button!I think it was totally worth it! Except for when its 100+ outside and you are stuck in traffic, other than that I love not having it...

Thanks for all the replies and info, got what I needed to know!

Got a question about the coolant flow through the throttle body. Which way does the coolant flow for the fiav? Does it enter the left or through the right?I have been searching for awhile and can't find an answer. There really isn't much of a reason for knowing so please don't post asking...

I want to say yes, but withot any prior personal experience I can't make an accurate decision. LolThe price does seem to good to be true, considering I paid almost $100 for my brand new dorman regulator and motor and that was my cost! It was also on a 1g.I didn't see what kind of warranty it...

A1cardone makes/remanufactures some good stuff. I work at oreilly's and its one of our biggest suppliers.I have no complaints about them, though I have never used one of their window regulators & motors.

I made the same mistake the first time I took my tranny out. LolNothing to worry about though, it all made its way to where it was suppose to be. You should be fine, just check it at the actual full plug and make sure it is full. I did the exact same thing and nothing bad happened. LOL

I had a similar issue and my clutch disc had three broken springs. It would work intermediately and I thought it was the master cylinder so I replaced it and all was good for a day and then it was back. So I just dropped the tranny and pieces of the springs fell out of the bell housing.

I had similar issue with my talon, changed the spark plugs and put the correct gap on them and my problem was solved! It would cut out and sputter when under a load, but at idle would be just fine to redline.Also I had a mechanic fix a small oil leak and change the timing belt and the other...

My buddy swapped the k20 out for a k24 in his wife's '07 civic si, it was all motor with a few bolt ons and a tune and it ran low 13's. it is now super charged on the same set up running 7.5lbs of boost (at least that's what it was when rode in it) it runs low 12's now. Thing is a blast to ride...

It could possibly be a strut mount or strut mounts, if they get bad enough they will clunk and pop will turning and hitting bumps.Some play is normal, but it should be very minimal. I thought I read somewhere on measuring the amount of play. But I can't remember where....most the play you see...

I am actually running a turbo car with a turbo "delete", bought it this way and I am in the process of returboing it.I am using a turbo ecu, turbo injectors, turbo block, turbo cams from a '90, turbo head, turbo transmission, I was using a turbo intake manifold but it cracked on me and I put...

Whoops. :D lolI missed that part in your first post. :ohdamn:I did have slack in the shifter as well, which is why I made a solid shifter base and the bracket that is bolted to the transmission that the cables are locked into (behind the shift levers) was sitting to low, had to loosen it...

I had a similar issue on my 1g, broke a shift cable and replaced then with a set from the salvage yard. Got them in and readjusted (obviously doesn't apply to a 2g) and had problems with first and second and sometimes third. I messed with it for hours, made a solid shifter base, rechecked...

Averaging 31 city and 34 highway with my 1992 eagle talon tsi 5 speed factory turbo car with no turbo. :sneaky:

I have a very similar sound coming from my car didn't start until I put a highflow cat on it. Didn't have a cat on it when I bought it and it never made that sound. So I figured it was the cat.

My truck sits lower than my talon so it's not even close to stock height, that's the main reason I had hids in it in the first place, they are not even installed anymore). I am not saying that there are halogen housings out there that do just fine with hids, I was simply saying that some...

I have bought two kits from ddmtuning and various led bulbs, there shipping depending on which one you choose typically takes about a week or so. They have really high quality stuff for the price and their lifetime warranty truly is a lifetime warranty. They are really easy to deal with stuff...