Because I'm finding out more and more that Dsm owners for the most part ghetto rig the shit out of everything. I'm gonna see it a machine shop can weld it shut, and retap it , he drilled it pretty large , like maybe big enough to accept a 10 mm bolt...... When I was first checking out the head I...
Ok cool so even though I'll be having the block and head resurfaced I just need to do the oil port mod. Any word on that exhaust stud ? And also I found one of the vc bolts was drilled over and filled with jb weld then helicoiled, wonder if a machine shop could weld it shut and re drill and tap it.
Ok I'm a little confused here, do I just need to do the oil port mod? I'm bolting a 6 bolt head to a 6 bolt block. Why would I need to drill the holes larger , if the bolts I'm installing are the normal 12mm 6 bolt headbolts
Well I'm running a 6bolt block, so I would still need my bolts drilled over ? I'm a little confused about the oil supply hole the tear drop one, when the head is resurfaced you have to change the size of it to get the same oil flow?
Alright will do, I need to see it Snapon stocks a spring compressor when I get back to work so I can dissasemble it all. Also is the pitting and stud ok? The stud looks like it goes in a bit far.....
Well they seem to be leaking , would a 5 angle valve job and some lapping on those stock valves be enough to get them to seal? I've never done this before so sorry for the noob questions
Hey guys so I've decided to start building a second engine to drop into the talon. I picked up a 6 bolt cylinder head for $200 and it seems to have warpage of around .003 around the firing rings but everywhere else is under .002. Manual says .008 is acceptable but I'm thinking I should still get...
Previous owner smashed it when he was trying to fit this o2 housing in, the sensor would have hit it. I ordered a new one but now I need to get a new o2 housing too. No cooling issues so far but it hasn't been driven much. And goals are around 350-375awhp , quick spool and a nice wide power band.
New turbo has been a straight up pain in the ass, 2 bolts were broken off in the exhaust side so I had to drill them out, and one of the threads on the downpipe side crumbled when I went to thread a bolt in, so I helicoiled it. Then the head feed pulled the threads out when I put it in. So I...
Ok I'm gonna update this thread after about a year now , a lot has changed. Started a new job working for a BMW dealer so the mods have been coming in full force since then.
Swapped out busted motor mount bushings for pollysI did not take pics of the install of the othersThen I decided...
ok so I fixed all the leaks I could get to easily. still waiting on tb shaft seals. also converted to speed density. it seems im still running a little rich in between shifts. otherwise it seems to be driving good to me. I had the dipstick blast out toward the end of my drive, but I believe this...
Nah it's a vta valve , with my vrsf piping and the 2g maf/intake there was no way to run a recirc valve, my previously crushed 1g valve didn't act nearly this badly when vented. I got the q instead of the qr because I had eventually planned to run speed density, just these issues pushed it to...
I'm already getting a lifetime of knowledge from bmws lol I work at a dealership.these cars are cake to work on comparatively. So I ordered a speed density kit, I'm gonna go that route sooner than expected. Throttle shaft seals, and going through tial to replace my leaking brand new q bov -_-...
I'm running 15psi but I'm not trying to wot tune at this time just get idle and cruise dialed inI'm waiting till the boost leaks are good and no oil leaks to wot tune
Ok as for the things to check before here's what I have doneBoost leak tested to 13psi
Verified mechanical and ignition timing
Compression tested at 150-150-155-155
Checked sensors and wiring
Fuel pressure at 37psi with vacuum line disconnected.
No vented catch cans or anything like that.Do...
I will post a log first thing when I get home, anything in particular you guys what? Cruise? What logged values?Also I've watched all the videos they posted and I feel I have a good grasp of how this works. I've tuned a few mazdaspeed3s on the access port but I've never ran into something as...
Well here is the weird part, after starting the car before driving if I idle tune it I can get it to .25 and within .8 combinedft and 14.7 at idle but as soon as I go for a drive it shoots up to around .45 airflow per rev.
No unfortunately I do not I'll have to grab one later when I'm home. But as far as tuning goes before installing the tial q, new injector seals and new dipstick i had it idling at 14.7 with an 10.8 at wot and it was pulling nicely but now the afr is all over the place. I'm not sure if it's worth...
Hey guys I'm having some problems with my 90 Dsm
Mods and maintainence are as followsInjen 2g intake and 2g maf
2g exhaust manifold
Evo pink top 550cc injectors
Fuel lab afpr
STM tank to rail kit
STM return line
Walbro 255
New injector seals
Fresh oil change
New oil drain seal
New dipstick...
Cant tell if your trolling or not, but here it goes.
You need to do some serious research before attempting to modify your car from the questions you have asked.Dsmtuners has a very clearly laid out modification guide. Suggest you look for that before spending any money.Electric...
You don't take my word ? Haha. The point is the stator which that center piece is attached to is supposed to be locked to the input shaft which will increase vortex flow inside the converter, allowing torque multiplication and thus more power to get the vehicle moving. When cruising speed is...
It is only supposed to turn one way, that is correct. The stator is freewheeling, must have damaged the one way clutch. Did u notice it having extremely poor takeoff after the problem? Like it didn't want to move from a stop?
Car is stuck in open loop where fuel trims are not used. Dead o2 could cause this as well as dead ect and a couple other sensors if i remember correctly
Yeah same here, Uti was just a gateway to BMW step for me, Uti doesn't give enough in depth to be able to fix everything on a car like a technician truly needs.
Oh no man I didn't think u were, just saying trying to point you in the right direction, disregard the fiav comment , wasn't actually sure about it's function, I guess the Isc controls the idle bump you get when at full lock.And yeah I know , my entire rack on my 2011 speed3 is entirely...
Alright, I'm just using my general knowledge about cars to help you here. I'm not a dsm expert but if that switch is toast then there's definitely a possible source of your issue. That's where I would start.
Well when you turn the rack to full lock there is an additional load on the engine due to the sharp pressure increase, if the PCM doesn't know that your at full lock the engine will stall on most vehicles. Make sure your connections are all good on electrical sensors. Apparently the power...
You'll have to use a machinists straight edge and some feeler gauges on the deck surfaces range could be from 300-$1000 depends if block and head need to be machined
Alright well your whistling sound is most definitely a boost leak then. Check all flanges and connections.The hg cost really depends. If it was overheated and the head warped you will need to machine it. Possibly block too. You'll need new head bolts and a gasket. Also think about doing...
It's coolant , check compression for blown head gasket. Ill put my money on that. You'll wanna deal with that as it's a bigger issue than running rich lol.
So no one noticed he said he has WHITE smoke coming out of the exhaust???How is your coolant level? Do you top it off often?Any check engine lights?
Also do a compression test and post results.You can pick up an exhaust dye checker at your local parts store, put it over the radiator with...
Based off that pattern your cat is dead, it may not be clogged but it's definitely no longer functioning. You should try doing a boost leak test. If your compression and fuel, and timing is fine then that's about all that's left.