had a issue on mine when it reached running temp it would turn off and you would have to wait from like 20 mins to a hour then it start like no problem till reached temp again and would die..... had it happen 2 eclipses I own... it probably is is your crank position sensor... if its dying when...

could of used that info the other night lol i was taking it apart to fix the wire and the connector just kept breaking... it was brittle... so just 2 lil pins on the sensor i ahve it stays till i get a pigtail lol

yeah I let the air out of the coolant... it was the coolant temp sensor... I wired it up again and the problem quit but when i was trying to wire it the connector broke so just the 2 pins are on until i got get a pigtail for it at the junkyard or something.

Also got the coolant sensor voltage low so that might have to be something and also the fan turns on as soon as i turn the car on and i dont think its suppose to do that......Update: well i just unplugged my coolant sensor and one wire was broke and the other broke when i was lookn at the...

OK i just replaced my leaky heater core hoses and when I get done there is a vacuum leak....probably from working behind the intake manifold (420a BTW).... I tried carb cleaner not really working... also tried smoke which helped some... had smoke come through the TB spring and IAC so swapped the...

Cant remember the toe I forgot to get the printout when I left I might try and go back and double check and get print since its my friend and i don't usually get a charged but it was green except camber in the front... would a bad toe cause it to pull so bad if it was off by a little or alot...

just for the records the problem was the crankshaft position sensor causing it to die in neutral in case some has this problem and see's this thread.

Okay as the title says I need help with my alignment issue it pulls to the left pretty bad... as soon as I let go of the wheel its starts veering over to the left quickly, recently got new tires 235/45/r17 and got alignment afterwards I got them and everything was green except camber in the...

If you have the egr soleniod unplugged it will throw a code if you go to radioshack you can get a resistor and put it in the two ports in the connector and tape it up and it wont throw the code then... heres the info for the resistor 100ohm wirewound resistor 10watt pn#271-0135

The sensor at the end of the manifold is the Manifold absolute pressure (Map).... check Throttle body gasket,check o2 sensors, EGR Valve stuck open, exhaust leaks, and dirty throttle body.... hope that helps some and since you checked for vacuum leaks.. that would be my first guess.

well I saw your thread also...im not going to have that cutoff switch but i came up with this diagram so far but tell me if this would work??

Well I found a youtube video of a gsx relocation and I came up with this diagram of relocate.Edit: just saw a post that the 420a are externally regulated at the ECU so are the 4g63 internally regulated at the alternator??? because that would remove the dedicated line for the alternator So...

Ive looked but haven't really found if this will work so I drew a paint diagram....well I'm going to get a battery box and put it in my trunk and I wont need a moroso cut off switch since I don't plan on racing at a strip. It will be all 4 gauge wire since I think its a good size and going...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/302025-spal-fan-wiring-2gnt-help.htmlsee if this thread helps you

if you talking about driving then going to neutral and coast...mine stays around 1100rpm then when I stop it goes down to about 900rpm. Did it just start doing it?

For custom pistons I think its going to run me about $480 what I was told...I think Im going to go with 9.5 its in between 8.5 and 10.5 so I think its a good number to go with... Good luck with the build and tell me how how MS install goes!

alright thanks guys for all the help stilling learning so just have to bear with me hahah and only way to get pistons is custom now... going to have to wait to get any parts till I run into some money with drill coming up maybe or when I get a job still waiting for them to get the car fixed or...

yeah if I ever get another rs/gs I might do the 2.4l edz swap maybe if this build goes good hahah.. is it 2.4l cloud block with 2.0 head? have to fab anything or does the block just bolt right up?Edit:disregard the 2.4edz question I did some searching around about it seems like a decent swap...

I have eagle rods now not the stock ones why im hoping they well fit don't want to have to buy new rods and for the oil pump I was going to get the melling oil pump...should I get a High flow one? and I put a trashbag over it and taped it closed, its on the stand now..

yeah that's what I thought too but he had to go that much on the block because of pitting I guess.... uh I don't know.. was going to use weisco pistons but how are manely haven't really heard much about them and I have ACL bearings but I cant use them now so I don't know... not sure... is there...

well got my block and crank back.... 270$ for it hot tank,bored and honed,crank grind and polish...block- is .50 bored kinda big I think so going to have to change my pistons size he said it was pitted pretty bad probably from previous owner doing crappy honing..Crank- .25 going to need...

Yeah I probably will I'm keeping dates and and taking pictures so I might do a build thread later on and yeah good luck with your build too.... I'm probably going to go with stock compression more room for error and get a away with plus no e85 around here....you could do high cr but usually has...

Yeah I did my rims w/ paint from home depot and clear from the can came out great still look good too except the one my mom curbed driving have to touch that up.....lol heres a pic of it when I did it plus buffed and waxed it awhile back... hoping to do the swap into this but might need to get a...

hmmm alright thats pretty good... ill probably use my neighbors spray gun since he has one but did you use clear on it or just 5 coats of it?

yeah I like how that satin black looks in the bay..where did you get your paint for it?

alright might go with that coil then when I change it and yeah I don't want to do that and have to either take it back to them or get new pistons....ill probably update the list of parts and etc for things im going to add on like gsx brakes better then ours so I can stop better but alot cheaper...

alright yeah probably well,I keep calling hope they start soon...lol and what about screaming demon coil pack?..I eventually want to do a cop setup w/ MS sometime down the road...I already got the 2.4l VC im going to shave and paint and use on the new engine :D

yeah I think its the coil while back when i was having problems with it dying....crank sensor of course... i replaced alot of things ... ll new plugs and wires were one so probably the coil,might go with msd when I fix it last (96)Talon had it pretty good I think, too bad the connector was...

yep whenever I pull the old motor and before putting the new one in im going to clean it up and paint jet black should look pretty good only if my dad had a welder we could patch the unused holes in the bay but that's okay I guess hahah. But yeah I got the resistor for the egr it came with 2...

Well engine still at machine shop still haven't started on it yet....but in the mean time I have been cleaning up the bay by redoing the vacuum lines the previous owner did a terrible job and also deleting things so far... everthing AC related is out,Cruise control is out,EGR is out which leads...

Well called the shop today going to run me about 230-250$ for all work which is a good price, idk if that includes labor but thats a good deal

Well I disassembled the block the rest of the way and took it to the machine shop today getting the block: hot tanked, sanded also I believe, checked, bored/honed, crank grinded and polished....for a fairly good price 225-300$ I think its going to come up to... so just a small update see how it...

Alright im just trying to get everything done right, thanks for all your help so far. I think im going to go with a mechanical tensioner because I heard the hydraulic one fails so I just want to be on the safe side..

I think I'm going to go with custom pistons through Fotowntalon with stock compression 9.6:1 that should allow me to run premium when I go turbo correct? not e-85 around here so cant do that... turbo not sure what im going with you said your going with a 20g correct could you go more in depth...

yeah that seems doable but I dont think he released the .cad file for the measurements that need to get cut out from the machine shop

Alright thanks for the heads guys and for the equal length half shaft I only see it for the gst swapping in awd alxes is there a thread for the 420a Im not seeing. and for the lsd im looking around from$750-850 thats better than $1000+ for a new one I would rather do the alxe mod then if I have...

Yeah I do they are ACL bearings for main and rods, alright ill take to a shop to make sure, do they just mic the cylinder walls?? And ill look into the equal length axle mod because I don't really got 1000$ for a quaife lsd atm hahah

Oh im going to check everything and make sure its good, im not just going to start throwing parts on and find out something is wrong with it. so we will see only thing I need for the block is the pistons so im hopefully going to get those soon and find a shop to polish the crank and that should...

Well checked Craigslist and I think I bought a deal spent 500$ total for it. Got upper gasket set w/ HG, Eagle rods,turbo manifold,ACL rod and main bearings, air intake manifold, Valve cover, head, block,oil pan, already bored and the intake ported and that box with other misc. parts too.I...

yeah that's what I want also durable and longevity engine that makes pretty decent power. Hoping it will come together nicely. I don't want to become one of those projects that you never know what happen to it either.

yeah thats what I meant 50$ more I wish it was just 50$ hahah and I sent you a pm Fotowntalon

only 50$ for custom pistons that's a pretty good deal... I would at least like to go stock CR I didn't know it was only that much more for custom.

alright cool so you think 10.5:1 would be okay since I plan on getting MS just need to figure out how to tune myself or find a shop but I don't want to build the engine and it blow, yeah ill probably pm you and fotowntalon during the build. and I cant seem to find stock compression isn't it...

alright I might look into the aero shedding for the crank and rods looks like it would work probably going to be a slow build so why not well do it right.. Im getting the engine saturday hopefully that needs rebuilt and ill take it apart and look at it.

Hey thanks for the advice and suggestions. I'm pretty sure the rods and pistons are the 420a weak point and the head is actually pretty good so yeah but I don't think I would buy a turbo from ebay I was just getting a idea. what kind should I use also?and jayson427 I know you have 10.5:1...

I want to build a 420a-T and don't say save your money and get a gst or gsx I want to build the engine for experience.Going to get a spare 420a from junkyard that needs built.Want to build engine and wire MS then get a turbo setup later.My goal is around 300hp. I made a list might be totally off...

Make sure there isn't a short somewhere when I got mine had lots of random wires and my stuff was acting weird so I went through all the random wires and removed the useless ones not connected to anything.

I had same problems in both my eclipse N/A,rpms would drop almost stall jump and then stall after couple times of jumping and it ended up begin the crank position sensor. Its about 60$ at Auto zone. Hope this helps guys.

When I got my 99 N/A,I had alot of wires going no where under the dash had to clean it up before something happened. Good luck.

The two eclipses I have owned I didn't use AC just rolled down windows and the sun roof.I just removed my AC system from my current eclipse now but did help with my decision is that the compressor was not working haha.