Up for sale is a set of 16 3g 4g63 lifters and a set of 16 roller rockers. All of these I purchased new and ran for 2 oil changes. They are all still like new and there are not any defects of any kind, ready to run.$100 shipped to the lower 48 states.

Seeing if anyone would like to purchase this complete roller before I post it up for part out.-1998 GST spyder 5-speed roller-North Star white-very clean car for its age-only has been sitting for 1 yr since last PA inspection-no engine-no transmission-no ecu-new black...

Up for sale is a 2g awd draw tite trailer hitch. For those of you who want to pull your jet ski or whatever, here you go.$50If you want this shipped understand it has some weight to it, so it will cost a few bucks to ship.Located in Leesport, pa 19533

up for sale is a pair of 2 Hoosier drag radials mounted on 5x114.3 16” wheels. Tire size is 225/50/16.Used a handful of times plenty of life on them. Used on a 2g Gst.Located in Leesport, pa 19533$100 cash picked up.

Have some parts for sale:-Dsm Dejon intake pipe w/2g maf $60 shipped-1g oem uncrushed bov $30 shipped or $40 shipped with oem recirc tube and hard pipe-2g oem bov, with recirc tube $20 shipped-nismo short shifter with knob $20 shipped-oem Mitsubishi spark plug cover $15 shipped-x2...

up for sale is a DNP divided T4 tubular exhaust manifold, ceramic coated black, has a 44mm vband wastegate flange. Manifold was barely used, has a few Knicks and scuffs from installation and removal. Great shape.$550 shipped and paypaledLocated in Leesport, pa 19533

up for sale is a 1g 6-bolt extrude honed intake manifold. Powder coated black, has egr block off plate.$200 shipped

i have a 97 gst 5-speed I am parting out. It is Barcelona red pearl (few pictures attached)-engine and transmission are sold-send me a message with what you may be interested in. Will not ship large items such as doors, large body panels, etc.Located in Leesport, pa 19533

Listing this on Tuners first before anywhere else. This is kind of a pre sale listing seeing if there is any interest in the car.This is my wife’s car, I hate to sell because of the rarity of the low mileage and condition but time to move on to other things.Here is a brief rundown:-1997...

Thinking about selling my never ran 1g race cylinder head.-6-bolt head-FULLY ported intake and exhaust-o-ringed-new GSC valve guides (also shortened for high lift cams)-new GSC 1mm oversized intake and exhaust valves with fresh valve job-new GSC beehive valve springs and titanium...

up for sale is a Gm Omni 3 bar map sensor, little use since new, pigtail is not included.$25 shippedLocated in Leesport, pa 19533

Up for sale is a 1991 turbo 6-bolt cylinder head.Head was purchased brand new 10 years ago for a 91 tsi and sat on a shelf since purchased, cams still covered in assembly lube, stainless exhaust valves, everything is new including valves, seals, lifters, springs and retainers, rockers and...

Selling a 13g turbo & 390cc turbo automatic oem fuel injectors.Car was stock, had 93k miles, blew a head gasket 15yrs ago, turbo doesn’t spin probably from sitting so long, comes complete as pictured.$70 shipped for allLocated in Leesport, pa 19533

Up for sale is a 1g 92 4-bolt rear diff, axles, cups, and hardware all in good working order.$250 picked up, will ship at buyers expense.Located in Leesport, pa 19533

Yes 2g transmissions bolt to 1g engines. You will need a transmission from a 1995-1999 eclipse or talon.' Fwd turbo assuming you have a 1999 gst. Awd transmission will not work if you have a fwd.

The damage from the oil return line would be leaking out enough oil to create engine damage by running low on oil. The exhaust leaks will cause improper air fuel ratios and on hard abuse can certainly create engine damage. From what you described the car sounds like a basket case and I would...

You can run on just a wideband with dsmlink. You need to have the input set properly to the kind of wideband you are using and have it set for narrowband from what I remember. Sounds like something in dsmlink is not configured properly.

I purchased mine from IPT. Very happy with the results.

I do not think there is a way to fix that. Best bet is to get a new or known good one.

When you say the rpms rise but no power I am assuming that means the clutch is slipping. IF the clutch is slipping it is very possible the clutch either was not bled properly or not adjusted properly down at the clutch pedal.

I have ran with and without and never had any issues what so ever. And good point on the aftermarket intake manifolds granite they don't weigh as much.

With a 99 car, 99 ecu, 6-bolt cas I always swapped the spark plug wires and never had any problems.

The picture you posted shows the temperature gauge sending unit which is for the cluster gauge in the car for the temp reading. Below that sensor should be a 2 wire coolant temperature sensor, I would have that checked, that sends the actual temperature to the ecu, based upon that sensor the ecu...

The best way I have done it was to drop the whole rear as 1 assembly. Meaning unbolt the struts from the top, unbolt the upper control arms from the wheel well, and unbolt the trailing arms from the body, remove the e brake cables from under the center console, remove brake calipers, and the 4...

Pull the dust boot back on the slave cylinder and see if any fluid comes out. If so the slave cylinder is leaking, needs replaced. Check under the dash at the clutch master cylinder area, check for any leakage. If both are dry, definitely bleed the system and make sure the clutch is adjusted...

They should be available at any Mitsubishi dealer. Or if you have a local salvage yard they might be free :)

Sounds like a mechanical problem vs and electrical issue. Do you have cruise control? If so I would check all the linkages to see if there is a noticeable problem or slack anywhere. Also could be a stretched throttle cable not allowing it to open all the way when fully depressed.

I just had my 97 gsx auto trans done at Benchtech transmissions. Had the option to go with shift kit, upgraded OD clutches, and Kevlar band. Paid 2k and the trans is amazing granite I had every option done. Bench tech is in Lancaster county.

I would check the fuel pressure regulator, and a fuel pressure test/ gauge might be helpful to see if your fuel pump is weak. I would start there.

If the starter is making a loud noise there is probably a problem with the starter and ring gear meshing. However your description is not very descriptive.

Being that your compression is that low evenly across the board your piston rings are worn out. Bottom end overhaul would be the fix.

Well yes running 450cc injectors (stock) with an ecu flashed for 560cc injectors will likely cause problems. The global fuel and deadtime settings will be different between the 450cc injectors and 560cc injectors. I would not recommend doing that. How are you checking your readiness monitors? I...

CAS is the cam angle sensor. Also if you are running a 7-bolt engine with 7-bolt sensors if the crank sensor is not sending signal to the ecu it will also not pulse injectors and will not spark. Common when a 7-bolt crank walks. Not sure of your setup but sounds like the probable issue is either...

It could be a problem with the idle valve in the throttle body where the coolant passes through, that is common. You could also have leaking throttle body shaft seals which can mess with your idle as well. Also I would check for proper Tps adjustment. Hope that helps.

No the shifter cables from the non turbo rs and gs models will not work on a 4g63 turbo model car. They must be from a turbo car.

The ear on the intermediate shaft from 1g to 2g are different. The 2g has 1 bolt that does go through the a/c bracket. I always use a 2g a/c bracket when doing a 6-bolt swap. There is a good chance the thickness of the 1g to 2g bracket are different causing the shaft going into the transmission...

There is a possibility it could be the ecu. I would certainly do a compression test on all cylinders, and check the spark plug wires. Could potentially be something with the cam angle sensor, a lot of times the wires fray coming out of thE sensor or just a bad sensor. But that is a few things it...

I can't answer the exact size however I use a factory headbolt and take a cutoff wheel and put 3 or 4 lengthwise cuts against the threads mimicking a tap. It cleans block threads very nice for the headbolts and it's free.

The electric fan on the drivers side is the a/c fan. The engine cooling fan is on the passenger side that's the only one that should come on when the temp gets warm. If the temp is climbing above normal and the level of the overflow rises or overflows def a head gasket. Other wise if it is...

If they are not for under the hood to replace the factory shifter bushings then they would be inside the car under the center console where the shifter assembly is.

I would start by checking all the power and ground wires on the battery terminal and the ones running to the starter, I have had that happen with poor connections at the battery. Also check the starter solenoid ground wire ( the small wire the clips onto the starter solenoid.) a loose connection...

Check the wiring closely up under the dashboard around the pedal assembly, make sure the clutch pedal lever is not pinching your brake switch wires or anything.

If you only have spark on cylinder 2 and 3 there is a good chance the coil pack is the culprit. I would start there.

The differnce between 1g and 2g mounts is the 1g has 3 mounts on the engine and 1 ontop of the transmission. The 2gs have just the timing belt mount and 3 mounts on the transmission. To put a 1g engine in a 2g you remove the 2 factory mount brackets off of the 1g motor (front and rear mounts)...

Did you have the starter itself tested? The solenoid good have gone bad. Def check your grounds and your main power wire to the starter for good connection. Make sure the main fuses aren't blown, if I remember right the ignition fuse if blown would not allow the starter to function. That's where...

I have used a sawzaw in the past to do those and I also used an air hammer/air chisel to get them out. Otherwise you will have to get pretty creative.

It sounds odd that the brake fluid would get dirty so fast unless the clutch line and or accumulator has varnish built up in it, however the color of fluid would not have a direct relation to your problem. How was the clutch bled? It sounds like there could be air in the line yet if it slowly...

That black plastic piece next to the headrest will indicate that they are spyder seats from a convertible. The hardtop seats do not have that. That is where the seatbelt would run through as a belt guide. The other difference between a hardtop seat and convertible front seat is the convertible...