I can't even boost 7 pounds with out a leak lol its a fat leak, and because I did injector seals twice now, and it's the only thing I can think of. The leak sounds like it's coming from around manifold and I've used plenty of soap water but still nothing

Ive been tracking down this boost leak, it seemed like injector seals but I've done those twice now cleaning all the ports new seals and o rings and insulators, but it still leaks from somewhere around the manifold, I was wondering, could I remove the fuel rail and injectors and use little...

16g you mean? 16g On a healthy motor on low boost should be around 210-220hp

Can you post pics of new axle, my awd front axles at orielly were 65 each. I'm sure they have a fwd one too, I would return it if it has no cotter pin hole. Call a few stores and just see if they can get the seals Alsohttp://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_front_axle_seals_fwd.htm

EDIT: Just realized yoy have an auto, that seal is for a manual, I have no idea if the seals are same or not. Skf part numver is 14006, they're around 10 bucks, 5 online if you want to leave your car in a random lot for few days. I also used a 32mm socket and half inch breaker bar to press the...

Unbolt the axle nut, if it's awd remove the bracket thats ib the way it's like 5 bolts, Sna axle out of trans, then pull until shaft is outside of tranny, then hammer with a rubber mallet the side where the castle nut was and done. I'd replace the axle seal as well. I know from expeirence, 2...

Yeah I scraped off the old gasket no rtv though as it was a metal gasket, I did a boost leak test whuch no conclusive results I'm on the stock bcs and it held 7 pounds and no hissing noises or bubbles

Yeah its at .63, I played with the throttle cable a bit, now it idles 1-2k, before I had a little idle surge like 1-1.2k but now it's even worse,

My intake manifold gasket was destroyed, couldnt even build boost, swapped with a machv metal one, builds boost and holds just fine and starts right up but it idles at 3600-4k , i have the biss screw all the way down, and everything is plugged in. i checked the throttle cable and its not caught...

So i had a huge boost leak (on stock bcs, spooled up to 5 psi feeling like nothing and could hear the whistle), it was coming from around manifold area, i have a rebuilt tb with new seals and gaskets, new injector seals and o rings, new oem fuel rail bolts, but it still leaks so i say f*** it...

yeah well my boost gauge does, and ok yeah that makes sense feel kind of stupid now but yeah my boost gauge holds at whatever psi i out it in, but when driving, espeically when cold you can feel and hear the boost leak

Well I have a bad boost leak like I can hear it and feel it. I have no other leaks if I hook up the coupler directly to turbo

Sounds like from where the air filter is, but I can't feel it or see it, I do have an extra filter I can throw om and try

I did a blt, and found 2 leaks at intercooler couplers, I fixed them, did the blt again and leaks gone. Next day I start up and drive but it still feels like a massive leak. Me being lazy and not wanting to remove the intake and my catch can and small coolant bottle, I made a mini tester that...

I'm with yupok.. wtf lol

Yeah I got mine off I see an e6175 code and a 138 https://imgur.com/YBH9BXj

Is the noise like a rattle hum or aby thing I know when my t case had the drain plug fall out and the fluid drained, I thought it was my exhaust slapping around or something. If the rear wheels arnt moving at all I would agree it could be tje transfer case. Is the driveshaft moving at all?

I have no idea where the other half is I just took th em out one day and it was broken

So my oem key broke and my spare only starts the car, I've talked to many lock smith one tried to remake a key based off the hatch lock. Some say the passanger door lock has to come out ad there is a code on it? I have the door panel off but don't see any code.. I just need clarification on this...

Yeah you could also,just do a conversion plenty of gb nt at pick n pulls also found this it's about 2 hours from sac http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5500497090.html

Hey man I'm in sac and I believe there are a few gsx in Craigslist I know there's a 1g talon awd turbo in sac for sale

Not sure about the first one, but the second one looks like a stock 13g turbo off a 1g automatic turbo

Agreed I've done some stupid shit but these guys are plain stupid

skip to 1:14.

is it possible to just get the seals? i dont have a press to do the bearings and this one seems good, and i had a spare axle seal that i used on my passenger side and its to small for the shaft.

okay cool, yeah its awd 1g 5 speed, so there should be 2 on each side of the bearing on half shaft, and one one the driver side axle?

is the seal for the halfshaft the same as the axle seals? or are they different. im swapping my half shafts so ill replace all the seals just need to know which oneshttp://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_manual_transmission_input_shaft_seal_md741818.htm...

I also didn't use oem bolts that hols the halfshaft in place but they're still there and not broken could this be cause? Is it possible to f*** up the half shaft?

Okay I replaced the axle and the seal, it doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. I checked the half shafts bolts and they're fine. Possibly wheel bearing? But only started when hit pothole

Yeah duh :p but i was finally able to pop it out, and seems like its from the bottom of the axle seal? http://imgur.com/rxFjHXa http://imgur.com/aChC1u4 http://imgur.com/a/OZqY4

I didn't tamper with the half shaft or bolts. 8 did hit a pothole and it seemed to start after that, so could just be axle popped off?

I changed my transmission fluid, go on a drive everything's fine, except doing a pull a roatating clunk emerges so I drive home and park it. I come out next morning and all the fluid dripped out right be the teansfercase/passenger axle, seems like it was coming eight where the axle connects to...

https://www.google.com/search?q=1g+dsm+paint+codes&oq=1g+dsm+paint+codes&aqs=chrome..69i57.5151j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=_gvjFt21aXio0M%3A

Yea i did, i can slide the belt on the gears and pulleys more and it makesno noise for a few seconds soon as belt rides back out noise comes back

The timing cover is off and running just bare minimum with no accessories belts on

Could a bent cam gear cause this soun?

ive checked multiple times and havnt found anything rubbing

A loud whine, many said the timing belt was too tight, or the pulleys were bad. Did timing belt job, new hydraulic tensioner and all new pulleys, still made same noise. Let it sit for bit took second look at it realized the hydraulic tensioner was bad, bought a new oem one, replaced it and the...

It was running gear on gear aswell, should I replace those as well?

Thanks for letting me know man its still a decision I haven't decided on.

Did you paint it yourself? How much did it cost for all the supplies ?

Going to have to replace my oil pump, ive heard and was planning on doing an oem mitsu one, but ive heard good things about the acl pumps, im trying to go go cheap as possible because the labor is $700 (work full time, school full time). I would delete the balance shaft as well, i only plan on a...

Im not asure i know there is a definite difference be5=tween gb eclipse and gb talon fogs,Eclipse fogs:taLON ONESTHE TALONS BOLT ONTO THE steel dumper support while the eclipse ones have a bracket and bolt to the frame.

okay great I can't fit the adapter and the sensor in the Allen plug one in the front because the subframe arm gets in the way, so I can run it out of the oil cooler lines? But what I'd I plan on adding an oil cooler could I run it out of the bug 27m bolt on the back? My lilpressure sensor is...

What are the 3 extra ports for? I imagine the 2 on the side would be for the external oil cooler, but the one facing downwards, it has a hexplug in it, could I install an oil pressure sensor their with out removing the factory idiot light and gauge http://imgur.com/pgxhlMY

still cant get this f***er off, any ideas?

yeah my threads on the sending unit or 1/8 npt, so i need an adapter from 1/8 npt to 1/8 bpst

I got my electronic oil pressure gauge and went to install it, only to find out the nut on the current sending unit is stripped, its a 14, but a 14 just starts to round the threads, moving the wrench but not actual unit, anyone have any ideas how to get it out?

I'm going to be redoing my timing and was wondering if this set would be beneficial, and if the crank tool would work http://m.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-3-TIMING-BELT-INSTALL-TOOLS-ECLIPSE-EVO-GALANT-OUTLANDER-SEBRING-4G64-/141835159977?nav=SEARCH

The pulley went out first time then I had it redone now it makes like a high pitched noise, coming from timing area