Just to answer the question in regards to the 100mm crank. A good oem crank is just as strong if not better than an eagle crank. Very often the eagle cranks are way off balance and if not corrected will snap under high hp. The stock cranks have been used upwards of 800hp.If you really wanted...
I for one don't think sand blasting the inside of your engine block would be a good idea, but the aircraft stipper works really fast.You could also just get the block hot tanked.
Ya that's the thread I read awhile back when I started to rethink the design of my engine setup. Was just wondering if anyone here had personal experience with this piston height.I think I'm gonna go ahead with them though, because I can maximize my piston/rod ratio while still maintaining a 2.4.
Hey,I just wanted to gather some opinions on my planned engine assembly.Carrillo finally got back to me on a set of rods that I've been trying to get custom made for my 2.4 engine. They are 159mm h beams with carr bolts, expensive but are light weight and super strong. I'm using my OEM...
When you do the body work to fill the previous spoiler holes, take your time or it will show and you'll it'll bug you forever after.Proper prep and paint afterwards.
I'll have to remember to update my chart then to include the 153mm rods.Without having used the english racing kit your talking about, all I can say is that R&R makes some of the lightest/strongest h-beams out there along with Carrillo. K1 cranks are also great.If you went with the 156mm rod...
Awhile back I put together a chart of different stroke setups, may help you decide:http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63-4g64-stroker-tech-efficiency.478244/
(I can't seem to get the new link feature to work on my computer so here it is ^^)There are various options out there for this...
I would keep looking for other options. If you want it for a dd it looks like it will need a lot of work.If you were buying it for a project then it could be alright.
Alright yes you are right. I've seen it done before myself, but it requires more fab work and in the end would be easier and relatively the same cost to simply put in an evo head. They can be found for a good price on evom now.
By swapping in evo pistons I would re tune for the lower compression and increase boost a little to keep up power. That aside you wouldn't have a problem running them.If you want to run 400hp without worrying about how long it will last then just buy some forged rods. Manley, eagle, or scat...
Most eBay kits come with knockoff Garrett's which can blow within 150 miles.For running 4psi on a 420a you are fine on stock internals. Stock block will hold 8psi, I've pushed 12 once on stock 420a block, not that I would recommend anyone to ever do this.Like stated you will need a way to...
I thought you were also asked for pictures in the previous thread, sorry if that wasn't you. But we really pics at the least. But measurements are the most sure way to tell what it is.
That's what I would do as well. Bullseye is a good company, I would just send the entire turbo to them so they can either machine it correctly or swap in the correct housing.I wouldn't jump to someone else unless you know bullseye can't do anything about it.
I bought my 4g64 long block for $100 bucks. Got it local from a guy who thought it spun a bearing. After ripping into, I discovered it was completely fine.Good luck though, hope you can make a good deal on it.
If it's a 72mm inducer, then it's a hx55. However that specific turbo is huge, and is hard to mount without a custom manifold. What size housing is it in.Really need a picture to be able to tell what you have.
Manley turbo tuff rods are great but they're heavy.Is this a 6 or 7 bolt?Carrillo and R&R make the lightest h-beam rods and can hold 800 hp. Even more if you upgrade the bolts.
I usually pull and instead them together. It's a lot easier I find, but if you have a freshly painted engine bay it might be better to seperate so nothing scratches.
Keep records of all clearance specs when your building. This way if anything ever goes wrong you have source material to figure it out. Make sure mic an calliper a are calibrated, if not it can throw off your measurements. Use plasti gauge to measure bearings and valve clearance.
Detailed Engine StrokeI'm creating this thread for everyone to reference when trying to decide which stroke to build your motor. There are many different options to choose from, each with their own pros and cons. If any mistakes are made, please let me know. :DTo create horsepower you need...
If you want 1000hp capable flow out of the head I would go with:Kiggly HLA regulator
Kiggly Beehive valve spring, titanium retainers
280 cams for sure
Bronze Valve Guides
Valves of your choiceAre your rockers in bad shape, id just give them a really good cleaning.Have you...
Haha I get bugged all the time for always being on tuners lol. Although I'm usually just reading like a mad man.As for the OP, you would certainly be able to tell if the car had been swapped from a 420a. I wouldn't be concerned about that, just make sure the title is clean.
3G eclipse owners have been putting evo 8 heads on the short block without upgrading the pistons. Why do you say they have to be forged. I'm curious.Also just incase anyone is wondering the hyundai valve cover does not fit the evo 8 cylinder head. They have a slightly different bolt pattern.
The swap is not as difficult as most people believe. And converting to awd is the same, a 2g auto diff has the same gear ratio as the evo 8 t-case so could swap in the rear end and run awd.Look forward to seeing you drop in the engine. I won't be to far behind you on my swap as well. Just...
He's not saying your crank is broken. They are saying that in some cases using a crank after it has been cut that it has broke. If your crank has been polished an is still within spec you'll be fine.
I'm going to vent mine as well, using a 6an line on my 4g64 block. It's already got a tapped plug so just need to swap it out.I hope the OP's engine survives this. Really should've torn it apart and cleaned it properly.
You should get the STM forward facing turbo piece made of carbon fiber. You could get two and add them in. I think it might make it look a little better...
Whats your plans for cleaning out the block? To be most safe I'd be pulling it out and cleaning out the block to save your bearings, but I don't know if this is optional for you?Do you already have a balance shaft delete?
This might be a bad idea, but depending on where the hole is could he tap in a plug to ventilate the crank case? Could be a bad situation turned good for extra engine health. This depends though on where the hole is and clearance, etc...Just thinking out loud....
Thanks for this. :)After reading your original post about this new setup I looked into KTS and spoke to a guy named Dong, who is the North American Sales rep, but he wasn't sure which compressor wheel I was asking about. I couldn't find it previously in the catalog either, so this will...