It is at a tow company called Barneys in Newton IA.

I hear you guys and I thank you for the responses. I really do want it to work out, and I do enjoy driving it. I thought about it and at the moment it does not seem like I can do anything. The car is currently at a towing company 100 miles away. They said $4 a mile to tow it to me, so I am...

Good afternoon and late Merry Christmas!So on my way home from visiting family for Christmas, my car died on the interstate going about 75 mph. I pulled it over and tried to start it a few times, but it was a no go. Got it towed and soon found out the timing belt snapped. It was fairly new...

According to this post, it looks like people normally tee off of the fuel pressure regulator vacuum source. In the case of my car, it looks like the previous owner just hijacked the line entirely for the boost gauge and blocked off the vacuum source for the fpr. I just wanted to make sure I...

I have a question regarding vacuum lines that may be for the stock fuel pressure. The person I had checking the pressure noticed that a vacuum line had been cut, and it seems to be negating the fpr. He said with this it is always stuck at over 50psi. I have put up a picture of the vacuum line...

I took it to a friend with the equipment to do it for me while I was at work.

It is factory FPR, so I cannot adjust it. Is there a faq on how to check the FPR and/or how to check the return line for restrictions?

So my car has always ran rich at idle and during normal driving. It fixed mostly after I changed the O2 sensor, but it is starting to act up again. Sometimes while just driving, it will just start to die. It is not in between shifts like what happens when venting to the atmosphere (I am not...

I ran some seafoam though the car and saw some smoke come out from the engine bay. Seemed to be pretty low on the right side of the block. The same side as the low compression cylinder. Starting to seem like a gasket problem. I do not suffer to many issues from it. Normal drivability seems okay...

I think it is part of the anti-lag in link or something. Not entirely sure, but it is worth looking into.There is some explanations here.

BTW I never got it out of the O2 housing... When the exhaust was replaced just put the O2 in the new housing. No longer runs rich.

I think they also call that a two-step launch control, but I am 92.3% certain mine does not have that; Like the OP... it otherwise seems to run fine. Was not until I started testing that I found the compression issues. May as well check about anyway. It could not hurt.

My car does something very similar. Only in neutral while stationary, it will not rev past 4500. Mine almost sounds like I am hitting a rev limiter or fuel cut. Have done blt, checked logger, fixed broke sensors, and more but still has the same issue. Just yesterday did a compression test and...

Yah the motor was at operating temp. I have not done a wet test or leak down. I can do a wet test no problem, but I may have to put some money into doing a leak-down since I don't own everything needed. I'm curious if its cheaper to buy a new motor or rebuild this one. I guess it depends on how...

Haha my car interior already rattles, and I can only imagine the rattle with some prothane mounts. I do like performance more than luxury, so I will probably change them regardless. To be honest it is the compression that is worrying me the most.

After taking a closer look at the notches on the gears today, I noticed that each of the two cam gears has 2 marks on them. There is one between two teeth and another on the outside of the tooth precisely opposite sides of one-another. When the dowel pins are straight up, The outer mark on the...

So my car just hit the 200k mark, and I decided to get out there and do all the routine checks. Just replaced the O2 sensor (fixing my rich problem) and nearly the entire exhaust, since the original one was rusted to crap and leaky. Anyways checked the turbo, and there was absolutely no shaft...

Whoops... looks like this exact thread exists in a few places like here. Didn't start finding them until just now.I wonder if anyone every actually found one?

Its similar, but the Fittipaldi one also looks much thinner on the sides like in the one below:Although that one would be neat as well.

So I was browsing images of DSMs earlier today and came across:Does anyone know where this spoiler can be found? I am normally not a big fan of spoilers, but this one is definitely unique, and it still has a very clean look to it.

Well this coming Monday I was planning on getting the new O2 sensor and a lot of the new exhaust parts put in, but until then I still needed the car to get back and forth from work. It was driving alright just burning up a lot of fuel so far since last week until this morning. I went to start...

Well right after I got to work this morning I let the car cool down and soaked in some PB Blaster again in the garage here. Then tried to hit it with an impact wrench at 100 PSI and did not budge. Took it for a ten minute drive while it is like 90 degrees outside 10 minutes ago, came back and...

I tried it after the car is fully warmed up and did not help as said in my first post. I feel the cost of a propane torch setup will be more than the cost of having someone else do it.UPDATE: After looking I guess there are some cheap ones

I called the local shops and they all wanted to charge about an hour of labor for loosening it for me, which that turns out to be $80 at the cheapest... Did not realize how expensive and time consuming of a job an O2 sensor is...

I am thinking about calling some local shops and seeing if one will just loosen it for me, but I hope they would not charge much. Honestly, for the price I paid for the sensor and the tools already (not counting putting in several hours in removal attempts) I feel it would have been more cost...

Hello,Been throwing CELs recently for my O2 sensor, and I noticed the voltage was stuck at 0.03 V after warmed up. There is no fluctuation whatsoever. I have a new Denso sensor, and I would like to put it in. The problem is that the one in there will not come out. I have tried soaking it...

I went outside and adjusted TPS voltage today and set it for .63v at the pins, but after re-reading your post Ace_gst is it supposed to be at .6v at the pins? From what some threads seem to say is 0.63v like here. It was at .76v when I started which MMCD said was 15.5% throttle. Not at 0.63v...

Looks pretty. At least the kit does not have the crap clamps that come with cx racing intercooler pipes. The ones with the bolt that feels like it just keeps on going...

I just did my throttle body just a week or so ago again. The first time I did it I used those redesigned ones and had a pain getting them in. Turns out I tore the rubber side off one to where the metal was exposed and it was causing a leak. Luckily I kept those original metal cap things and just...

Thanks I will give it a try

Hello,I adjusted the TPS sensor exactly as it says here when I rebuilt the throttlebody. When I run the MMCD logger it says I am at 15% throttle while at idle with absolutely no thottle pressed in. From what I have read, it seems 10% is supposed to be 0 throttle? With the throttle fully...

So after getting my sensor issues fixed I decided to go for a drive and log it for a bit. The MBC is set at 15 PSI which is turned down from when I got the car. The mods in my profile are up to date. I have a MAFT Gen 2 lying around, but I am waiting to install it until I get a wideband.I...

Wow great post! Thank you! I will test the connector when I get home after work and post my results.Just fixed it!! I am so happy now! I measured continuity from the maf sensor plug to the ecu plug and there was continuity, so I was stumped for a second... Then I took apart the ECU and...

Any idea which wires to test the baro sensor with? Or what the voltage levels should be?

So I finally got a logger to help me troubleshoot some problem I have been having. I get a CEL for baro, but do not know what to do about it. Tried 2 different ECUs and 3 MAFS and always get the same code. Cleaned the connectors as well. On my first log at idle after letting it run for 10...

Just put the new ECU in. Right after I start it up, and it is suddenly idling at about 3k rpms and throws instant CEL... Kind of lost for words right now... Any ideas?The guy from ECMTuning said "I don't think that the buzzer is working right. The pattern of beeps in the video is...

DSM1G90 Thank you for all your help so far! I just purchased a ECU and a logger from a member on this forum, so hopefully that will help these issues resolve. I will update when I get it put in and can do some testing.

Never mind got one from a user on this forum. If there is anyone near the Ames, IA area that would like to help on some trouble codes let me know. I just ordered a logger and a new ECU, so I am going to see if that fixes the issue or not.

Well it looks like it was sanded or something there like an attempt to fix a broke trace.Well I made sure their sloppy job didn't jump over any traces. It appears everything in that spot where the solder is located is at an electrically equivalent spot. I redid the solder joints underneath to...

I do not have ecmlink, but I did just find an issue and could be related to other issues. I have it posted here at the bottom of my other thread.

The video is still up and after the first set is does a break and then starts with a short buzz.Well thank you very much for your help, but it appears I just found my biggest culprit... The ecu definitely appears to have problems. It is a shame and a huge burden to, because I just got it back...

Haha no that is not an intention of mine. Having some other issues and wondering if that is normal or a side-effect of an issue.

Is there a special rev limiter in 1G turbo dsms while the car is in neutral? Car revs fine while in drive, but does not rev passed 4k while in neutral. Almost like it hits fuel cut or something.

Since that night the black out of the exhaust has not happened again, but the codes still remain an unresolved irritating issue...

Have not got to sending in the ECU, because I have been needing the car. I did get the battery, alternator, and belt checked out, and it all was fine. Some of the codes I get I do not understand if I am reading correctly so I made a new thread, but probably should have just continued this one...

So in the past I had barometric sensor issues (Only the shop could get this code... I never have), and just for fun I decided to through in a third MAF sensor that the seller assured me worked great. Anyways my issues are getting progressively worse. This car is my daily driver, and I am now to...

I talked to Thomas through emails, and he said the only difference between the two ECUs is a single resistor. He said he does not think anything would affect the barometric sensor since they redid and tested everything. They are also willing to look at it again if need be. If I knew the resistor...

Well I know it does have an EPROM chip, but not sure if it has been swapped out or not with anything else. Is there a chip number I can reference to tell what car the EPROM would belong to? I can take it out tomorrow again when it is daylight and I am off work.

So my car is a 1991 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo. According to this, it seems I am suppose to have the ECU with part number MD166260. I do not have that though. I have part number MD165532 - E2T36581 which according to that page belongs to a 90-92 California spec automatic AWD turbo car.I am...

I am not teeing it off the BOV line. I have it setup similar to this.