hey guys, another Tampa area dsm guy here trying to find fellow dsmers in the area. Finally got my car back running so im just seeing if any meets have been happening or iif anything has been set in stone.

mother of god.... what are people thinking?

That sounds like an alternator issue to me. I have a galant alternator in my car and have had zero issues. Can you bring it to an advanced auto or something? Don't they have alternator bench testers?

I don't think that is too steep. I would feel comfortable with that price

Hmm. Only reason I asked is because I used a cheap o2 gasket once and it smelled and cracked from time to time and when I went to replace it, it literally disintegrated upon removal. After that I was good to go.

What kind of exhaust gaskets are you using? How long has it been going on?

Could it possibly be metal components expanding and contracting due to heat? I hear a similar sound when I get done driving my vehicles.

If there is an issue with the threads you can get a tap and die set to clean the threads up.

Have you checked the CAS wires and plug. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if the tach doesn't move while cranking then there is a signal issue with the CAS

When you crank the engine is there a tach signal? It the needle moving at all? Check for spark and fuel. First two starting points of no start diag.

You probably would want to go get another one and bleed the system thoroughly.

i would just replace it while youre in there. its a 10 minute job

If the nut is stripped then try using a tap and dye set to clear the threads up. Those kits have saved my ass countless times

What "plug" are you referring to? Have you confirmed all the bulbs are good?

visual inspection is really the only way to check boots. if you arent having issues with the rear axles then i wouldnt mess with them. take a quick look to see if the boots are fine. most places sell boot kits for axles but now a days its almost as cheap to replace the axles

keep the rpms up as well. Turn a/c off.

Hello and welcome. The swap is pretty involved. There are some threads on it but in my opinion it's easier just to buy one already awd.

OEM will definitely be the better option but sometimes that's not always in the budget.

Welcome! Unsure on your idle problem. Cold be a number of things. If you have ecmlink that may be quite helpful in finding out. Try searching and you will find loads if information on this site.

You have to have the meter in amps. And run the meter in line (series) with the negative battery cable. If you run it parallel it will blow the fuse in the meter.

I had an issue like this and it was a spun main bearing.

Going to have to start checking parasitic draw and removing fuses one by one to see if it goes away.

get a drill and a couplle of drill bits. start small and work your way up to as wide as possible. It should start backing out at that point. if not try to find a stud extractor

If your CAS is 180 out the car shouldn't start. I would triple check the timing marks to make sure the cams are dead on. One tooth will cause a misfire. Check to make sure your plug wires are in all the way?

Check for power at the starter too. I had an issue where I was only getting 6 volts to the starter

Did you put the wires back in their proper spots?

I would pull out a dmm or test light on that circuit just to make sure. It's the only sure way

I second the FP Red. You want low 400 now but I'm sure you'll want more later

Maybe the rotor backing plate is rubbing or there is debris in the rotor itself?

I think he was referring to jumping the starter. Not the car. Which means the starter is good. If the relay is good. Then there are two paths you have to check. (Mind you I don't have a wiring diagram to help at this moment). Check the relay coil ground to make sure the relay is actually kicking...

Agree on the balance shaft delete. You said the timing belt may have been done recently. Might want to check and see if the balance shafts are in time. If the balance shaft belt is broken it would be pretty obvious. Usually when they are out of time you get a pretty good vibration at 3k. Let us...

First step would be to find out why you aren't getting 12v to the starter solenoid. You would need to pull out a wiring diagram work your way through until you find if there is an open in the wire/wires.

I am unsure of the spool time part of the question but wouldn't you rather go aluminum for your intercooler piping? Steel doesn't transfer heat like aluminum.

i would try to locate a wiring diagram for the circuit. Start from battery power and measure voltage down the curcuit until you lose voltage. If you only have 1.7v at the fuse block then it sounds like there is high resistance in the circuit.

Hey all, just picked up this 1997 GSX from a guy in Orlando. 6bolt swap with a EVOIII 16G. I had a 95 GSX a couple of years ago and totalled it. Glad to be back in a DSM