Anyone hook up am Amp so they can play tunes? I have mine almost done but there's a ton of noise. So I'll need to figure that out. Was wondering if any of you had already done it.
Makes sense. I've been sourcing parts to build a new engine and my builder saw and reached out. I think he's going to take a look and also tune it for me. Pretty pleased he reached out. The tune on this is basically nonexistent (basic setup in ecmlink is done as far as injectors and such...
I don't want to lose sight on the issue, but if it's piston slap, what can I salvage from this block?Crank? Rods? I'd assume pistons and block would need replaced.
Son of a. That's what I was worried about. It's basically always been there. This engine has maybe 5 miles on it and some idle time. Built a couple years ago, but never ran it. I have a picture from when I took the head off that shows some uneven wear marks in the cylinder. You can...
Since you guys helped me so much on my last engine noise. How about this one. Sounds almost like a diesel at low RPMs and would die if i don't give it gas, before it warms to idle. Is fine over 1k rpms and when warm.
To close this out as solved. It was the torque converter/flex plate bolts. Will need some thread locker on it. I'll be posting my next issue shortly! Haha. Last one to solve and I'll be super happy.
Checked coils and spark plug wires. No damage at all. Checked starter, good. All grounds were in good shape.The noise wasn't the bolts rubbing anything but the flex plate hitting the bolts, or so I hypothesize.
I'll be replacing them all. This kiggly 1g engine in a 2g setup is nice, but the flexplate bolt debate is complex. Think I found some that may work though.
Quick update. Pulled the starter, looks to be in good condition. (It was brand new) no harm in checking. I did find the flex plate to be loose. Like all the bolts came out half a turn (for convo sake) and the flex plate will wiggle back and forth and hit the bolts (making a metal on...
Yeah, I haven't run it since. It scares the hell out of me. I went searching for the sound with a screw driver but it just seemed everywhere I looked I could feel/hear it. I want to check the starter for sure. I have some hypothesis' in my mind. But, that electrical thing is one the...
Checked rockers, everything in the head was intact. I pulled to cams tonight to put stock back in and see about the rotation. I didn't get everything back together, but I'm starting to suspect these cams I bought second hand. Should get everything back together and timed tomorrow. Before...
Yep. Just making sure. Will rotate the crank to check the flywheel bolts. I'm assuming I should see some scouring if they're rubbing anything. They didn't rub with a previous head, but it's always good to check. Also want to make sure it rotates fine. What are some causes of binding...
Will def do that, but it's def metal on metal. I scoped the pistons and don't see any marking. I have a suspicion about cams and timing, so I'm starting there for now. Keep the options coming! I'll definitely check the electrical.
Engine started making this noise, now I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any help diagnosing would be great. Probably drop the oil pan shortly. Timing is on. Head components are new, new lifters that were bled.
I've ordered numerous things from you guys and get it faster than when I order here in the states. Love getting oem stuff from you guys we can't get in the states. A+ from me, always.
This is cool and I want to pull the trigger, but wondering about lower solutions for all of this? How would one lower these all the most efficient way. Also, will there be grounding noise when trying to output sound from 3.5?
Talked to IPT and they said they'd have to look at it, but they did say they used to etch IPT and customers names into their converters if they were going on the shelf. So incant be 100% sure but there's certainly a good chance it's an IPT restall. The question is do I send it to them to confirm?
Well, considering it was sold to me as a 2g unit, not sure what to think. There are some engravings that I'd like to follow up on. One says IPT (not sure if they identified their converters that way). Another says boosted tech.
For anyone following. Fairly confident i was sold a 1g converter. Shame on me for not checking. Bought a precision restall and i think it should fix all my issues. Now to reinstall.
Thanks, I'll try that. I tried a little but really didn't have too much time. Its sounding more and more like another engine pull. I'm not too excited about that. If so, I may just get a different converter.
It's not installed backwards. Besides having pictures sent to kiggly to make sure i had it right, the original issue that has brought this to my attention is the starter not making contact with the torque converter.
2g auto tranny, 6 bolt engine. Kiggly kit used and installed correctly (double checked with kiggly with pics). My flex plate bolts were too long so I have cut them, but my torque converter doesn't slide out the 1/8-1/4 inch that it needs to meet the flex plate. I'm thinking about pulling...
So i took the inspection plate off and I can see the starter and it's coming up short. That said, I also see about the amount it's short in the gap between the (i think) flex plate and the torque converter. Maybe my bolts are too long as I remember torqueing them down correctly. You can see...
I have a 6bolt block, 95 auto tranny (awd). I am using an awd 95 auto starter and the same starter plate. Put a few starters in and the same issue. It's just spinning and not connecting to the torque converter (my assumption since I can't actually see it). Used kiggly kit for the swap...
Bump to see if anyone has solved this. I have read about 5 threads that all die with no solution. 6bolt swap in a 98 gst, awd converted. Donor was a 95 gsx. Used 95 starter plate, tranny, and starter with the kiggly kit.