I would lean more towards timing or a sensor. Crankwalk is a no for sure. If you say timing is good make sure you double check and that it is not 180 degrees off....Rotate the car over til it lines up. Then do 4 rotations make sure it lines up still on everything. Also your CPS? working...
+1 for getting ecmlinkv3 and you can take care of those codes and delete pretty much anything you want to.And I vote for keeping power steering. A/C- probly not, I didnt. But it's basic function of the car over looks. I enjoy driving my car without fighting the steering wheel.
Preboost while boost building I like to see a rich spike then a gradual lean to where you want it to. You don't wanna get too dramatic or it will start eating plugs up bad maybe even misfiring once boost does hit. But I always aim for a 11.2@wot and a 14.5@idle and on a spike from a 10.5 leading...
Have you thought about running a OEM enkei EVO8 wheel? the fitment is OEM quality they are really lightweight, make tons of tire options for them and are a 17X8 +35 offset. and are decently cheap?
Otherwise you have Rotas to look into, (IK-R - ROTA Wheels) and RPF1's are a good wheel, but a...
I wouldtt even bother with it unless you want to keep it N/A. It is a typical 6bolt swap, or what they thought was typical 6bolt swap...but they got a N/A 6bolt 4g63 out of a 1st gen instead of a 4g63t. Odds are the whole motor is nonturbo.
I agree that this is not a proper way to convert to rwd...it will work for a while. kinda like a stock motor with a [email protected] will work for a while too. How long? eh...who knows. If it was me I'd weld the center diff, properly.
tokiko red springs with kyb agx struts is what i have and i love them. theyre soft yet hard, and not bouncy. but it sits nice and low in the front and have about an inch or so of wheelgap in the rear, which for me is fine bc weight transfer on a launch is a good thing for my car.
its nothing about doing the required work correctly, if u read about my car nothing was corner-cut....i was simply trying to figure a way to make sure it was the problem, and it was. i unmounted them and flipped them upside down and vacuum bled them then remounted them and they worked fantastic...
yes bleeding the brakes with the car off, and then starting it and re bleeding themuh-oh...i just went out to check to make sure...they're pointed down...i guess i was thinking thats how they were on my evo for some reason and so it wouldn't get fluid all over hell when u cracked...
this may not be the place for this thread but i just wanted a quick opinion and i just joined this forum and am limited to here, but am not a newbie to dsm's by any meansI did a quick search and found some info but not what i wanted particularly. I have recently done the evo brembo upgrade...
if just want the block it will be fine 9 times out of ten...as far as the valve cover i bet it is rough and has some nasty stuff in it with it being open to atmosphere
if u do trans bushings rip apart ## console and take a look at your base bushings also the side to side are always loose...shit my whole shifter was loose and i replaced the whole thing with billet rollerbearing block...custom ;)
shes nuked...and guys correst me if im wrong but i think the center diff may be screwed too...because i believe if i remember the last time i tore one apart, the center yolk is driven by the 3rd gear spyder. its means to tear it apart and inspect. for sure. hopefully something is salvageable
I wouldnt even start modding anything, unless the stock part is dysfunctional (ex. stock Bov leaks).
What i would do is have the Timing belt checked, compression test it, buy a boost leak tester and test for boost leaks (you can search for what to buy and how to perform boost leak test), buy a...
+1 Southbend! Mine lasted 12000 miles of DD, and about 60 launches or so id est.!! and its still working to this day just starting to not be able to handle the kick of the 30r @ high gear/hightorque pulls... Im running an excedy PP and ACT lwf paired with the southbend TZ disc...it was an...
I see your point there and i cant say i wouldnt do the same.Thnaks for the input guys Im ###### gunna end up going big anyways, makes for room to grow later i guess huh!:hmm:
Just because I'm a noob on the forum doesnt mean i'm a noob to 4g63's...IK Id sure like to have a WOT log, but i bought the car with ECM link V3 and didnt come with a cable/disc, need to get one, IK. I have an older version of dsm link 2.5 that works but is very limited to what i can see on...
Do not know what my duty cycle @ WOT is :confused:...but currently I am running 10.5-10.6 afr's @ WOT 30PSI....room to grow a tad?? :rolleyes: little conservative if u ask me...but it is E85...Im thinkin i should probably go bigger but wondering if it was necessary...i just dont wanna get in the...
I was just curious my car is making 467hp to the wheels now running a stock IM, stock TB, and a GM maf. Im upgrading the TB to Ported NA TB (65mm w half shaft n uber seals) speed density, and a port matched IM to my TB and head ports- and want to crack 500 whp...
Thing is, I'm wondering how my...
Ummm...Do you have any service engine soon lights or throwing a code?
+1 for banking on boost leak...4g's and theyre boost leaks...ESP on stock setup, my lord.
also, check your tps sensor via VFAQ>DSM>Intake>scroll to throttle body>tps
also check the idle surge faq.
Anyone mention to this guy that he might have a warped head? Stripped bolt/stud? Did you get it all decked and cleaned ANALLY? I always use copper spray on flat metal mating surfaces and rtv in others containing coolant/oil.
Also may have got a nick in your flat mating surface from scraping...
Props^^ Good directions, check on it periodically
IK everytime I do an oil change I make sure after i loosen the filter that the stud is still in tact/@proper spec ;)
+1 too much money
+1 i bet all the marbles it has a stock bottom end+internals, with a built head and studs/gasket which will last a while but not for longgggg
+1 it is clean!
-kinda sketchy:confused:
-600 horse? I call bs...maybe to the crank on a dynjet or virtual dyno
-he doesnt say any...
Do you or anyone know where i can still get these brembo adapter brackets? i have the calipers now just need to mount them! Anything is appreciated!!:thumb:
sounds to me like if it is in boost surge, it is a restriction on the intake side of your motor all the way to the compressor exit, maybe your intercooler isnt flow matched for your piping of doesn't allow that turbo to breathe efficiently @ that amt of airflow? Or a restriction on the intake...
I run Schaeffers 5W-50 Race Oil. and this is whyVirgin Analysis of Phos/Zinc and moly - Bob Is The Oil GuyHigher concentration of oil additives that you WANT, less of the crap you don't want. 5W winter, 50 weight summer, dry starts are no longer, plus my head makes less noise. Also for BB...
have you tried just turning the motor over with a wrench on the crank and seeing if you can hear any sign of faint wining? I would check that and take acc. belts off one and maybe check your water pump also.
GL!
Remember to that it is going to require some force on the axle to separate it from the trani, it is designed to stay in!
Also, for first timers, i found it easy to move the strut out of the way as much as possible and disconnect the caliper brake line from the CALIPER if it is giving you...