The map sensor on the ms unit itself is all you need. It runs on speed density which doesn't use a maf.

Heres my 420a on hx35 standalone e85 23psi vs 4g63 2.3l 60mm turbo e85 25psi vs exo x full bolt on and tune @28psi I was in the middle lane with no traction and a slipping clutch.

Ok thanks guys ill look into the wilwood valve thats more of what I was looking for ill do some upgrades to the rear

i didnt want the back to brake harder then the front i just want the back to help out some more. the car is for a straight line 1/4 mile track and under heavy braking seems like only the front are really working. Guess i just wont worry about it.

Okay so ive noticed over the years on a few 2g eclipses both non turbo models and turbo models that the rear disc brake calipers dont really work that hard; meaning they dont apply alot of pressure to the rear brakes. It seems as if the front brakes do all the work when braking...Now i was...

'Glowryder' tuning the idle stepper isnt that hard its more of getting the PID sittings correct. its mostly the 'P' and 'I' settings that you mess with and leave the 'D' setting at 0.To the OP if you have experience soldering then you'll do just fine as long as you follow the directions as to...

have you tested them in the test mode?

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the ignition coils. Megasquirt ecu was running normal and trying to spark but no spark was at the spark plugs. to determine if that's the problem use the Test Mode feature in Tunerstudios to test for spark.

Well he said he was going to get a junker motor and rebuild it so thats why I stated things such as megasquirt and 450cc injectors. BTW stock injectors are horrible with a fmu or even an sfmu because you force such high fuel pressures and the stock injectors get Maxed out at around 8psi high rpm...

Probably the pcv valve. I remember mine used to do that too until i replaced the pcv. And since your not turbo'd then no need to have a spark plug gap at .28 put them back to factory ithink it was .32? You cant just get a CEL and start changing things to make it go away, you Need to scan it to...

^^because a stock 420a is 9.8:1 compression and the head flows a lot better than a 4g63. Thats why a 420a would make more power...And to the OP if you want even 8psi to last on a stock motor it has to be tuned just right so you dont get knock on that high compression motor and since the stock...

you should try and find a portfueler plate so you can run an extra set(4) injectors to control fuel with megasquirt while in boost so you can leave the stock ecu controlling the stock injectors while not in boost. You can have a shop cut out a portfueler plate if you cant find a used one anywhere.

Nope your motor is stock so save your money stick with 87octane.And the stock intake manifolds flow pretty good with just a port and polish and larger throttle body. Cheapest upgrades you could do first is.. 1.get a gst axle-back exhaust 2.get a cold air intake 3.get a larger throttle...

If your using a rising rate fmu you'll have better results with bigger injectors but with 450s most people then need an SAFC to get a steady idle. But if your running no more then 8psi might as well just go with a set fmu

"timing belt trick" - Team-2G Mitsubishi Forum

the FMU route is the simplest/easiest one, it splices inbetween the fuel return line from the stock fpr to the tank, NOW if you used the new fpr you would have to remove the stock one.no, but leaving the stock one in will save you time and money. and like i mentioned above you will need to...

if you want to use the 650s effectively you'll need something to control them properly and if you want a SAFC then just use that money for megasquirt. Theyre about the same price for what you need it for. with MS youll just need the injectors and a afpr, no need for and FMU or stock fmu

well black plugs mean your running rich. So cylinder #2 may not be running as rich

To the OP i dont know why anyone hasnt mentioned it but you dont need e85. Your mentioning using e85 because your getting knock at 14-16psi? thats probably because your maxing out your injectors and running lean OR you have a higher compression? either way you need something to tune with

A cheap way to add a 14b or similar sized dsm turbo a buddy of mine just got a cheap ebay 420a header and got a dsm turbine flange welded to it so the 14b can bolt up to it. You can use the o2 housing too but the turbo need to be mounted in the right direction so the o2 housing faces the best way.

It would be awesome if the OP could post his TS Tune file for us to check out..I'd like to see that spark map

Yeahh mark bullet over on 2gnt is probably making one of the highest HP N/A 420a and only made 219hp with 175tq. Buddys dyno must deff be wrong then.

Not trying to burst your bubble but i find this hard to believe if the motor(420a) and still stock. Cant be a normal 420a then, no stock 420a will make that much power. Post the dyno sheet since it was on the dyno!

It feels completely the same as from before I took it off. I even adjusted the pedal to not put pressure on it. And it feels so bad when it free revs a little because when i let off right when it happens you feel the clutch instantly grab and jerk. Im guessing the clutch disc got contaminated...

So i just finished putting a fresh rebuilt motor in but I used the clutch I was running before. its a spec stage 2+ but it only had a couple thousand miles on it because i put it on last summer and lastnight i took out the car to break in the motor and it was holding fine until all of a sudden...

Has anyone heard of making somewhere in the 400whp range on the stock cams?

So let me start off with I just put a fresh built bottom end in with a fresh rebuilt head with 4g63 springs and stock 420a cams. Im wondering about how much power can the stock cams support? Im running an 18g turbo and ill soon upgrade to a 35r with some turbo cams but in the meantime I was...

So theres no other options besides just those 8850XX rings on that page? whats the difference between those and the other model rings like the XA, XC, XG, and XH?Thanx 5150DSM so after talking with some people the XX rings are the ones that come with the pistons. The other style rings are just...

Okay so i recently had problems with my stock motor burning tons of oil and not making any power and so i did a compression test and cylinders 1 & 4 are pretty low, cylinder 1-4 was like this 60-170-170-80 So i added a tad bit of oil into the cylinders and the compression went up to 170ish so...

Okay so pulled the head and brought it back to the headshop and did a leak test and cylinder one was leaking. He said my lifters in cylinder 1 are bad. and that they have too much oil in them making them hold the valve open a little. He hit on the lifters a couple times to try and push some oil...

The guy at the head shop said he cleaned the valves n ports and put in new seals and resurfaced the head. He barely took anything off when he resurfaced it. Im bout to pull the head back off now and bring it back to the guy. No more shops will be touching my head! next time ill take the time to...

Okay after a compression test my results were 59-125-125-80 I repeated the test 3-4 times and got about the same numbers. So cylinder 1 and 4 are clearly the problem. I think the guy at the head shop messed something up. I added some oil to cylinders 1 and 4 and did the test again and...

Similar problem i had on 2 420a's, turned out the ECU was bad.

Take some pics and post them. Im sure we will know what your running if we can see what your actually talking about. You said theres an fpr next to the tank? you sure its not an fmu? and what engine management is it?

The cam gears are facing out it says 609 on both gears facing each other. The head was taken to a machine shop that didnt just rebuild mine but as well as my buddies 4g63 head and a mazdaspeed3 head. I know a lot of local guys who bring the head to this guy and his work has always been really...

I have no CEL as im full standalone with megasquirt MS3X. I did a boost leak test and theres only a slight leak at the throttle body shaft. In MS all the sensors are monitoring everything correctly and everything reads normal. Its running lean but I have no vacuum leak my vac gauge reads 20inHg...

I have verified the timing is correct. the cams and cam gears are all stock factory. no after market . the head gasket is a .051 cometic hg and I pulled the valve cover and the alignment holes in the cams are both facing straight up. oil pressure was normal. This is why I cant figure out whats...

So I took off the head to replace a leaking head gasket and got the head rebuilt with new seals and a cleaning. After putting the head back on the car now hesitates when giving it gas and the motor starts shaking and its also running super lean at idle and when giving it gas around 16:1 AFR's...

You wont hear it if I make a video because you only here it under load no just sitting at idle. But theres got to be some sort of way to diagnose a faulty lifter isnt there?!And the lifters are from a 2.4l pt cruiser they probably have a good amount of miles on them.

Ive been having a loud ticking sound when the engine is cool and when it warms up you dont hear it as much but its still there. it sounds like it comes from the top of the motor so I pulled all the lifters out the head to check them and cant seem to find if one is bad or not. How do you know if...

I ran that CAI on my 420a when i first got it years ago. It was the best mod for my N/A only noticeable difference is throttle response and little better acceleration. But unfortunately these kits dont have mounting brackets on the pipes so youll need to get a bracket welded on or itll be only...

still need a fcd?

The 420a runs on speed density. No MAF

There ya go-->SymtechLabs Megasquirt

Throw any codes?

My bottom end is stock with a port & polished head, 4g63 valve springs, 60mm TB P&P intake manifold, 450cc injectors, EVO3 16g turbo, 2.5" turbo back exhaust,4" intake and Megasquirt on 10psi. Havent had one problem with it in over 3 years, nothing has broke. I last dyno'd over 2 years ago and...

The Voltage regulator is NOT in the alternator on the 420a its in the ECU. You can use an external voltage regulator, the one symtechlabs sells for the 420a eclipse. I think the best way to go is with a 1 wire self-exciting alternator as the voltage regulator is built into the alt. itself.

my 420a-Turbo is hella reliable, hasnt broke down on me in years. Then again almost everything has been replaced lmao To the OP you should keep the 420a and work on it since you want to be an auto tech. the 420a is a simple platform. And keep an eye out on the forums like on 2gnt, theres always...

I had this same problem. It worked perfectly fine then after a clutch job it wouldnt start. It was the starter relay. Im surprised no one mentioned the starter relay under the dash behind the radio. Just because you hear it clicking when you try and turn it over doesnt mean its sending 12v to...

It should work like normal without the yellow or brown wire connected. Did you follow the procedure correctly from their manual? innovatemotorsportsmanual